1 I E>  RA RY 

OF  THE 
UN  IVLRSITY 

or  ILLINOIS 

917.73 
J7U 


ttMB  HISTOHICAt  SMYgf 


ILLINOIS 

SURVEY 


ILLINOIS  AND   THE  WEST, 


A   TOWNSHIP   MAP, 


CONTAINING    THE 


LATEST  SURVEYS  AND  IMPROVEMENTS. 


BY   A,  D.  JONES 


BOSTON: 
WEEKS,   JORDAN    AND    COMPANY. 

PHILADELPHIA  : 

W.     MARSHALL     AND     COMPANY. 

1838.  \ 

^  \  \ 

\ 


Entered  according  to  act  of  congress,  by  A.  D.  JONES, 
in  the  clerk's  office  of  the  district  court  of  Massachusetts, 
anno  Domini  1838. 


TUTTLE,   DENNETT    AND    CH1SHOLM, 

Printers-17  School  Street. 


7  Hi 


INTRODUCTION. 


9  • 

C9      I  HAVE  been  induced  to  give  the  following  pages 

£to  the  public  from  a  strong  desire  to  give  a  correct 

impression  on  the  public  mind  of  things  pertaining 

>  to  the  West,  and  particularly  of  that  portion  of  the 
x    West  embraced   in  Illinois.     Various  and   contra- 

-  dictory    reports  of    this    land    are    in   circulation 

-  throughout  the   Eastern    and    Middle  States,  and 

-  which  are  well  calculated  to  puzzle  and   mislead 
h  the  inquiring  immigrant     The  purpose    of  these 
^~  pages  is  to  disabuse  the  public  mind  of  these  false 
"    impressions.     Having  seen  and  heard  what  I  have 

written,  and  having  withal  taken  the  best  advice 
"*~~  with  men  upon  the   spot,  I  feel  that  I   can   confi- 

>  dently  rely  on  my  little  book's  being  received  as, 
2  at  least,  a  correct  and  impartial  directory. 

' 


Vlll  INTRODUCTION. 

The  "  Appendix"  has  been  collated  with  great 
care  from  the  best  sources,  and  many  important 
corrections  and  additions  that  no  other  published 
statistics  contain.  The  Map  has  been  drawn  from 
the  best  authorities,  and  contains  surveys  and 
improvements  never  before  published,  and  may 
be  relied  on  as  more  accurate  than  any  other  map 
extant 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Reasons  for  writing — Best  route  to  New  York — Odious 
monopoly  between  New  York  and  Philadelphia — 
Railroad  accident — Comfort  on  a  canal  boat — Portage 
railroad — River  and  mountain  scenery — Pittsburg,  -  13 

CHAPTER  II. 

Sail  down  the  Ohio  river— Morals  and  Lynch  law  at 
the  west — Cincinnati — Wreck  of  the  Moselle,  -  -22 

CHAPTER  III. 

St.  Louis — Immigration — Farmers  immigrating — En- 
campment on  the  prairie — Rapid  growth  of  trees — 
Debarcation  of  a  raft  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio— Tim- 
ber at  the  west,  ----.---30 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Mississippi  river— Missouri  river— Waters  of  the  Mis- 
souri medicinal — Bluffs  and  bottoms  on  the  Mississip- 
pi— Scene  by  moonlight,  ------  40 

CHAPTER  V. 

Tradition  of  the  Piasau  bird — Legendary  lore  of  the 
west — The  west  once  occupied  by  a  race  of  giants — A 
race  of  pigmies — Strange  oeasts  and  birds — Appear- 
ance of  me  Piasau  bird— Description  of  it — Origin  of 
its  name — Fearful  destruction  by  it— Its  death,  -  -  50 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Illinois  river — Peoria— Comfort  on  hoard  a  steam  packet 
—Bribing  the  steward — Debarcaiion  of  an  immigrat- 
ing family  at  Naples— Bottoms  unhealthy — A  wise 
provision  of  nature — The  west  destined  to  greatness,  61 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Tremont — Respect  paid  to  the  Sabbath— Temperance- 
Fourth  of  July — Stump  speeches — Barbacue  in  Mis- 
souri— False  notions  of  western  morality — Travellers 
— Acqaintance  with  the  people  affords  a  solution  to 
enigmatical  appearances — Apology  for  personal  elec- 
tioneering,   71 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Face  of  the  country  unique— Unlike  New  England — 
Level  hut  not  flat — Oak  openings  and  timher — Bluffs 
— Prairies — Climate — Unusual  proportion  of  fair  days 
— Diseases, "-88 

CHAPTER  IX. 

False  opinion  upon  literature — A  fifth-rate  lawyer's 
chance  of  success  at  the  west— Respectable  share  of 
talent  in  Illinois— Libraries  and  scholars  in  log  cab- 
ins— Room  for  talent  at  the  west — Preferment  the 
result  of  worth  and  application — Provisions  for  educa- 
tion in  Illinois — Illinois  college— Shurtleff  college — 
Other  colleges — Same  liberal  policy  pursued  in  other 
uew  states, -  ',-  -  101 


CHAPTER  X. 

Division  of  land  at  the  West— Townships— Lesser  divi- 
sions— Mode  of  numbering — Diagrams — Simplicity  of 
the  whole  plan,  -  125 

CHAPTER  XL 

Chapter  for  immigrants— False  notions  prevalent  at  the 
east — Conflicting  reports — How  to  reconcile  them— 
Home-sickness— Object  of  the  book — Impartiality — 


CONTENTS.  XI 


Advice — Health — Some  capital  necessary  to  success — 
But  few  wealthy — Too  much  praise  of  the  west — Inju- 
rious to  immigration — "  Illinois  in  1837-8,"  a  false  text 
book — Let  not  the  immigrant  expect  too  much — Seek  a 
healthy  location — Be  modest— Small  change  and  small 
men — Thirty  cents  for  a  glass  of  beer—"  Improve- 
ments"— Frame  house  and  log  cabin — Fencing  and 
ploughing — Sod  corn — Time  to  plough — Select  good 
stock — Best  season  for  immigration,  -  140 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Western  fever — Rock  river— Fish— Exploring  commit- 
tee^— Starting — A  new  mode  of  travelling — Incidents 
— How  to  make  a  city — ComOj  -  -  -  -  -  165- 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Facilities  for  travelling— Rise  of  property — Wabash  and 
EYie  canals — Productions  of  the  soil — Ploughing  and 
planting  prairie — Beet  sugar — Mulberry  and  silk — 
Hay — Ditching  and  fencing — Farms  on  shares — Profits 
of  cultivation — Economy— Speculation— Wealth  the 
product  alone  of  labor, 182 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

On  trees,  gardens,  etc.,  -------  197 

CHAPTER  XV. 

On  Claims,  pre-emption,  etc. — Public  Lands — Squatters 
— Associations  for  mutual  aid  and  defence — Quantity 
of  land  to  be  claimed — Conditions  of  holding  claim- 
Title,  how  to  be  obtained— Public  sale — Simple  ma- 
chinery—Policy  of  government,  224 


CONCLUSION,           -        -        -        -.,/.-        -        -  230 
APPENDIX, 253 


CHAPTER    I. 

Reason  for  writing—  Best  route  to  New  York  —  Odious  mo- 
nopoly between  New  York  and  Philadelphia—  Railroad 
accident  —  Comfort  on  a  Canal  Boat — -Portage  Railroad 
— River  and  Mountain  Scenery  —  Pittsburg. 

STEAMBOAT  MAINE,  OHIO  RIVER,  > 
MAY  14,  1838.  5 

HAVING  promised  an  occasional  sketch 
from  my  pen  during  my  absence  from  home, 
I  seize  the  first  moment  of  leisure  that  has 
presented  itself  since  my  departure,  to  redeem 
the  pledge.  On  ground  that  has  been  so  often 
traversed,  and  so  repeatedly  described,  it 
cannot  be  expected  that  I  should  find  much 
that  is  new  or  striking  ;  but  there  is,  doubt- 
less a  large  portion  of  your  community,  to 
whom,  if  they  be  not  new,  my  sketches  may 
be  interesting.  Besides,  on  leaving  New  Eng- 
land, I  was  besought  on  all  sides,  to  write  con- 
cerning the  u  land  of  promise,"  towards  which 
2 


14     BEST  ROUTE  TO  NEW  YORK. 

I  had  set  my  face  ;  and  these  general  epistles 
will  serve  the  purpose  of  numerous  private 
ones  — thus  saving  me  much  time  and  labor. 
Again,  there  is  an  increasing  desire  at  the  East, 
to  know  more  about  this  great  valley  of  the 
West,  and  every  thing  relating  to  it  is  eagerly 
read  ;  and  it  is  desirable  that  men  of  differ- 
ent pursuits  and  tastes  should  give  their  indi- 
vidual impressions,  that  from  the  whole,  a 
somewhat  correct  opinion  may  be  formed  of 
the  various  characteristics  of  the  soil,  climate, 
society,  &c.,  of  the  West. 

Nor  shall  I  write  these  notes  by  the  way,  as 
a  traveller,  but  as  a  citizen.  They  will  be 
miscellaneous,  and  will  be  filled  with  matter 
relating  to  things  in  general  ;  and  the  circum- 
stance of  their  being  filled  while  on  the  wing, 
will,  I  trust,  be  sufficient  apology  for  their  ex- 
tempore, unpolished  character. 

I  took  the  Stonington  route  to  New  York — 
a  new  one  to  me — which  I  found  both  pleas- 
ant and  comfortable,  and  should  certainly  rec- 
ommend it  to  persons  travelling  from  Boston 
to  New  York.  I  considered  myself  fortunate 
in  falling  in  with  two  old  friends  on  the  way, — 


RAILROAD    ACCIDENT.  15 

a  circumstance  which  served,  in  no  small  de- 
gree, to  banish  the  uncomfortable  reflection, 
that  every  evolution  of  the  clanking  machinery 
bore  me  farther  from  my  family  and  the  land 
of  my  nativity.  I  wish  I  could  say  any  thing 
in  favor  of  the  travelling  accommodations  be- 
tween New  York  and  Philadelphia  ;  but  con- 
scientiously I  cannot ;  and  as  I  hate  grumbling 
on  the  road,  I  shall  say  nothing  on  this  point, 
only  that  a  most  odious  monopoly  exists  there, 
which  insults,  at  will,  the  whole  public,  and 
imposes  beyond  patient  endurance  upon  the 
traveller  whose  ill  fortune  it  may  be  to  be 
thrown  within  their  merciless  grasp. 

At  Philadelphia,  we  took  the  cars  for 
Harrisburg,  where  we  were  to  strike  the 
eastern  terminus  of  the  Susquehannah  Canal. 
At  West  Chester,  about  16  miles  from  Phila- 
delphia, the  locomotive  ran  against  a  dearborn 
containing  a  man  wholly  unconscious  of  the 
danger  he  was  in.  The  cars  were  going  at 
the  rate  of  twenty  miles  an  hour,  and  the 
concussion  was  of  course  terrific.  The  horse 
was  killed,  and  terribly  mangled,  the  dearborn 
crushed  to  atoms,  and  the  man  thrown  upon 


16  COMFORT   IN  A  CA.NAL  BOAT. 

the  track,  and  the  wheels  of  the  engine,  tender, 
and  one  car  passed  over  his  right  leg,  literally- 
crushing  it  to  atoms.  It  was  a  horrible  sight, 
and  the  whole  of  the  passengers  seemed  to  be 
utterly  dumbfounded.  The  suffering  man  was 
soon  drawn  out  and  disentangled  from  the 
wreck  of  his  carriage,  and  was  fast  bleeding 
to  death,  yet  no  one  stepped  forth  to  his  help. 
I  immediately  went  to  his  aid,  examined  the 
limb,  applied  a  tourniquet,  and  aided  him  to  a 
house  near  the  spot,  where  he  was  comfortably 
provided  for,  until  the  surgeon  should  arrive. 
I  heard  from  him  the  day  after — he  was  doing 
well.  By  this  time  the  engine  and  tender, 
which  were  thrown  from  the  track  were  re- 
stored, and  we  resumed  our  saddened  way. 

At  Harrisburg  we  took  the  canal  boat,  and 
travelled  at  the  rapid  rate  of  three  miles  per 
hour.  Our  boat  was  calculated  to  accommo- 
date thirty  persons  ;  we  had  sixtyfae — I  leave 
it  for  you  to  judge  of  our  comfort,  adding 
only,  that  a  portion  o£  our  number  were  of 
the  lowest  grade,  am"  ,\fere  exceedingly  offen- 
sive in  person  and  language.  I  need  not  say 
here,  that  whiskey  was  at  the  bottom  of  our 


PORTAGE    RAILROAD.  17 

discomfort.  There  were,  nevertheless,  a  few 
on  board,  whose  society  repaid  for  all  our 
evils.  At  Holidaysburg,  we  left  the  boat,  and 
entered  the  cars  by  which  we  were  to  be  borne 
over  the  mountains. 

The  "  Portage  Railroad,"  over  the  Alle- 
ghanies,  is  a  wonderful  work,  and  exhibits  in 
a  surprising  manner  the  amazing  power  of 
mind,  and  its  vast  superiority  over  the  corpo- 
real world.  Here  we  were  whirled  over  a 
a  high,  rugged  mountain,  whose  toilsome  and 
dangerous  ascent  and  descent,  it  but  yester- 
day required  more  iceeks,  than  it  now  does 
hours.  The  road  consists  of  five  inclined 
planes  on  each  side  of  the  mountain  with  their 
levels.  The  planes  are  from  three  fourths  of 
a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  quarter  in  length,  and 
the  levels  from  one  to  sixteen  miles.  The 
short  levels  are  furnished  with  horse  power, 
the  longer  ones  with  locomotives.  The  pas- 
sage is  perfectly  safe — so  it  appeared  to  me — 
and  is  full  of  interest.  The  scenery  up  the 
Juniata  and  Susquehann^h  had  been  wild  and 
beautiful,  but  here  it  invested  itself  with  the  aw- 
ful and  sutpendous.  Now  we  were  drawn  up 
2* 


38  MOUNTAIN    SCENERY. 

an  inclination  of  thirtyfive  degrees,  at  the  rate 
of  seven  or  eight  miles  per  hour,  by  a  single 
cord,  and  an  entirely  invisible  power  ;  now 
were  descending  from  our  giddy  elevation  at 
the  same  rate,  and  anon  winding  our  crooked 
way  along  some  deep  defile,  or  on  the  edge  of 
some  beetling  crag  that  overhung  an  abyss 
which  made  the  head  swim  that  dared  to 
glance  below.  On  either  hand,  peak  towered 
above  peak,  seemingly  ambitious  to  overtop 
each  other,  sending  back  from  their  rugged 
sides,  the  echo,  ten  thousand  times  reduplica- 
ted, of  the  shrill  and  affrighting  note  of  our 
steam-whistle,  which  it  was  necessary  to  keep 
in  perpetual  play  throughout  that  dangerous 
course.  On  the  summit  level  we  dined — or 
rather  went  through  the  ceremony  of  eating, 
and  paid  for  it  very  liberally.  The  amount 
of  transportation  on  this  railway  is  immense. 
There  are  two  tracks,  and  the  engines  are  in 
continual  operation.  As  one  set  of  cars  pass 
up,  another  attached  to  the  same  rope,  (which 
moves  like  an  endless  chain,  up  one  track  and 
down  the  other)  passes  down  and  there  is  no 
cessation.  It  seems  to  me  that  when  business 


RIVER  SCENERY.  19 

is  brisk,  it  can  by  no  means  answer  the  de- 
mands that  will  be  made  upon  it.  At  the 
head  of  the  last  inclined  plane  on  the  west 
side,  we  passed  through  the  bowels  of  the 
mountain  by  a  beautiful  tunnel,  which  added 
to  the  variety  and  gave  life  to  the  scene. 
Once  more  packed  in  our  canal  boat,  we 
floated  down  the  Conamaugh,  (the  largest  of 
the  head  waters  of  the  Ohio,  and  which  rises 
near  the  spot  where  we  dined,  and  where  it 
would  have  run  through  a  gallon  keg,)  the 
Kiskiminitis,  and  the  Alleghany  rivers  to 
Pittsburgh,  where  we  arrived  on  Saturday 
evening,  the  fourth  day  from  Philadelphia — ( 
albeit  the  agent  promised  us  a  passage  of  but 
sixty  hours.  The  scenery  down  these  rivers 
is  exceedingly  beautiful,  Ind  needed  only  the 
robe  of  spring  to  render  it  perfectly  enchant- 
ing. But  winter  reigned  among  these  hills, 
and  scarce  a  green  thing  appeared  for  a  hun- 
dred miles  together. 

An  observant  mind  will  discover  in  every 
place  some  peculiar  provision  of  the  great 
Creator  for  its  necessities.  Salt  is  one  of  the 
most  necessary  articles  of  life,  and  were  the 


20  PITTSBURG. 

vast  country  in  this  region  dependent  on  the 
Atlantic  shores  for  this  indispensable  conser- 
vative, it  must  be  procured  at  great  toil  and 
greater  cost.  But  here,  the  All-wise  has  hid- 
den the  secret  springs  of  life  and  health,  and 
its  inhabitants  have  but  to  sink  a  shaft  from 
one  hundred  to  two  hundred  feet,  and  obtain 
the  purest  salt  water.  All  along  the  banks  of 
these  rivers  we  beheld  these  salt  wells,  with 
their  steam  engines  pumping  up  the  water  into 
res'ervoirs  where  it  was  evaporated  by  fire. 
Here,  too,  beside  these  springs,  in  the  moun- 
tain's side,  protruding  even  to  the  surface, 
are  exhaustless  mines  of  bituminous  coal, 
easily  wrought,  with  which  their  fires  are  fed. 
Such  is  the  command  these  salt  works  have 
over  the  market,  triat  they  can  easily  bring 
down  the  price  of  salt  to  one  dollar,  and  even 
less,  per  barrel,  at  Pittsburgh. 

We  entered  Pittsburg  over  the  Alleghany 
river,  by  a  splendid  viaduct,  thirty  feet  above 
the  surface  of  the  river.  As  it  was  dark  we 
lost  the  view  of  the  city  and  its  environs, 
which  from  that  point  is  said  to  be  very  fine. 
In  the  morning  I  took  a  ramble  on  the  wild 


P1TTSBURG.  21 

hills  which  skirt  the  turbid  Monongahela,  and 
was  enchanted  with  one  of  the  most  unique 
and  varied  prospects  on  which  I  ever  gazed, 
out  of  which  rises  in  the  midst,  this  city  of 
smoke  and  machinery,  whose  noise  and  sty- 
gian  odors  penetrate  the  senses  even  at  the 
highest  altitudes  of  those  towering  bluffs. 

No  one  can  look  upon  the  locality  of  Pitts- 
burg  for  an  instant  and  not  be  convinced  of  its 
commanding  position.  Situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Monongahela  and  Alleghany 
rivers,  whose  junction  forms  the  head  of  the 
Ohio,  it  must  forever  be  a  mighty  thoroughfare 
through  which  the  tide  of  immigration  and  bus- 
iness must  pour  with  continual  increase  while 
our  institutions  continue.  Nor  in  a  commer- 
cial point  of  view  alone  is  it  important.  To 
the  Christian  there  is  a  moral  relation  between 
Pittsburg  and  the  far  West,  which  magnifies 
exceedingly  the  importance  of  this^station .  It 
appears  to  me  that  no  small  pains  or  expense 
should  be  incurred  by  the  philanthropic  to 
cause  a  healthful  influence  to  go  out  therefrom 
into  the  fertile,  but  morally  sterile, '  valleys 
which  lie  beyond. 


22  SAIL    DOWN    THE    OHIO. 


CHAPTER    II. 

Sail  down  the  Ohio  River— Morals  and  Lynch  Law  at  the 
West— Cincinnati— Wreck  of  the  Moselle. 

ST.  Louis,  Mo.  MAY  24,  183f . 

I  embarked  in  the  steamboat  Maine,  Capt. 
Crawford,  for  St.  Louis,  and  left  Pittsburg  at 
2  o'clock,  P.  M .  on  Monday,  14th  inst.  The 
Maine  is  a  new  boat,  with  state-rooms  through- 
out, and  a  fine  boat  in  all  its  appointments. 
The  captain  is  an  accommodating,  gentleman- 
ly fellow,  and  being  a  large  owner,  keeps  a 
vigilant  eye  on  the  whole  concern.  His  pilots 
and  engineers  are  sober,  faithful  men,  and  the 
passengers  may  rely  on  safety,  as  far  as  it  de- 
pends on  them.  I  would  recommend  to  any 
of  my  eastern  friends  who  are  coming  out  here, 
to  inquire  for  the  Maine.  Our  sail  down  the 
Ohio  was  as  delightful  as  a  combination  of 
pleasant  circumstances  could  make  it.  The 
day  was  the  first  perfect  spring-day  I  had  seen 
this  season,  and  the  fields  and  forests  on  the 
river's  side,  had  already  begun  to  assume  their 
summer  garb,  and  were  vocal  with  the  music 


RIVER    CRAFT.  23 

of  their  feathered  tenants.  I  had  often  heard 
the  praises  of  this  majestic  river  sung,  and  had 
curbed  my  expectations  lest  I  should  be  dis- 
appointed. The  Ohio  is  a  beautiful  river. 
There  are  points  on  the  Hudson  and  Connec- 
ticut, and  other  rivers  of  the  East,  which  equal 
any  thing  I  saw  on  the  Ohio  ;  but  its  peculiar- 
ity is  that  it  is  all  beautiful.  There  are  no 
points  bare  of  beauty  ;  but  every  mile  is  as 
rich  in  scenery  as  it  was  in  verdure  at  the  time 
of  my  passage  down  its  "  winding  way."  Not- 
withstanding the  country  in  the  neighborhood 
of  this  stream  has  long  been  settled,  yet  there 
are  but  few  towns  on  the  river's  bank,  or  in- 
deed improvements  of  any  kind,  and,  with  the 
exception  of  here  and  there  a  break  made  by 
such  as  furnish  the  steamboats  with  fuel,  the 
aboriginal  forest  bounded  the  prospect  on  either 
side.  This  is  owing  to  its  liability  to  inunda- 
tion at  the  season  of  the  annual  flood. 

The  peculiar  and  various  craft  which  plied 
up  and  down  the  Ohio,  at  the  time  of  Mr 
Flint's  first  descent,  have  entirely  disappeared, 
with  the  exception  of  the  flat-bottomed  boat 
and  raft.  These,  indeed,  we  passed  in  great 


24  SAIL    DOWN    THE    OHIO. 

numbers,  but  they  never,  as  formerly,  return. 
At  the  mouth  of  the  river,  they  are  broken  up 
and  taken  to  St.  Louis,  or  float  on,  down  the 
Mississippi  to  New  Orleans.  We  hauled  up 
alongside  one  of  these  floating  fields  of  timber, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  which  afforded  a 
study  to  any  one  disposed  to  look  at  nature 
and  man  under  every  new  aspect  that  presents 
itself  to  him  on  his  passage  through  life.  I 
shall  speak  of  this  more  particularly  in  its  place. 
At  almost  every  considerable  place  on  the 
river,  we  stopped  a  short  time  to  discharge  or 
take  in  passengers  or  freight.  I  availed  my- 
self of  these  occasions  to  go  on  shore  and 
take  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  towns  and  peo- 
ple thereof.  Many  of  the  towns  I  found  beau- 
tiful ;  and  in  all  of  them  I  witnessed  the  supre- 
macy of  the  utilitarian  spirit,  which,  while  it 
is  rearing  towns  and  villages  all  over  the  wil- 
derness west,  is  but  too  careless  of  the  moral 
growth.  The  amount  of  grog-shops  which 
curse  every  western  town  and  city,  would  as- 
tonish every  man  from  New  England.  As  far 
as  my  knowledge  extends,  I  do  not  think  the 
average  high,  when  I  say,  that  in  towns  in  every 


MORALS    AT    THE    WEST.  25 

eighth,  and  in  cities  in  every  twelfth  tenement, 
ardent  spirit  is  an  article  of  traffic.  What  can 
be  expected  of  the  morals  of  the  west  ?  And 
yet,  in  justice  I  must  acknowledge,  that  I 
have  not  seen  half  a  dozen  men  drunk  since 
I  left  Boston.  Nor  do  I  think  that  the  tone 
of  morality  is  at  such  low  ebb  as  we  have 
been  accustomed  to  suppose.  Indeed,  in  so- 
ciety, embracing  not  only  the  upper,  but  mid- 
dling classes,  there  is  a  high  standard  of  mor- 
ality ;  and  gross  violations  thereof  are  by  no 
means  winked  at.  True,  it  is  more  chival- 
rous than  Christian,  but  it  embraces  the 
fundamental  principles  of  honor,  patriotism, 
integrity  and  chanty.  We  find  here  the 
best  materials  to  work  upon  ;  rude  and  un- 
refined, they  may  be,  but  containing  the  ele- 
ments of  the  best  social  organization. 

Nor  do  the  tidings  of  violence  and  wrong 
which  are  * daily  wafted  to  our  ears  from  this 
far  land,  check  my  confidence  in  the  redeem- 
ing virtue  of  the  west.  We  abuse  ourselves 
when  we  take  these  rough  samples  as  speci- 
mens of  the  western  character.  We  ought  to 
reflect  that  the  strange,  and  the  cruel,  and  the 
3 


26  LYNCH    LAW. 

bloody,  are  far  more  likely  to  reach  us  than 
the  good,  which  is  less  notorious  because  it  is 
less  strange.  And  the  reign  of  Lynch  law 
here,  is,  by  no  means,  to  be  taken  as  evidence 
of  the  lawlessness  of  the  land,  but  otherwise. 
The  country  is  large,  wild,  young,  and  sparse- 
ly settled,  and  it  is,  in  many  cases,  exceed- 
ingly difficult  to  obtain  justice  at  all  ;  and  it  is, 
nine  cases  in  ten,  only  a  sense  of  justice  that 
erects  this  extra-judicial  tribunal,  whose  de- 
cisions, however  opposed  to  Coke  and  Black- 
stone,  are  generally  such  as  these  eminent 
jurists  would  have  legally  sanctioned.  I  say 
nothing  for  Lynch  law  —  utterly  and  ever- 
more do  I  condemn  it  —  but  I  do  say  that  the 
specimens  of  which  the  west  has  been  the 
theatre,  do  not,  in  my  estimation,  lower  the 
standard  of  morality  there,  but  the  reverse  : 
they  find  some  apology  in  the  circumstances 
alluded  to  above.  In  the  east,  where  the  law 
is  a  perfect  machine,  working  with  exact  nice- 
ty, at  all  times,  and  penetrating  alt  the  ramifi- 
cations of  society,  it  is  entirely  a  different 
thing.  The  burning  of  the  Charlestown  con- 
vent was  ten  thousand  times  more  atrocious 


CINCINNATI.  27 

than  the  burning  of  a  negro  over  a  slow  fire  at 
St.  Louis  ;  not  intrinsically,  but  because  of 
the  more  thorough  organization  of  society,  and 
the  higher  tone  of  morals  prevailing  at  the 
east.  I  do  not  say  that  there  is  not  a  favora- 
ble comparison  to  be  made  between  New 
England  and  the  west,  in  point  of  morals,  in 
behalf  of  the  former,  yet,  I  can  but  think 
there  is  a  more  unfavorable  impression  exist- 
ing among  us  respecting  western  morality 
than  an  examination  into  the  subject  will  war- 
rant. These  are  my  "  first  impressions,"  and 
I  feel  bound  to  give  them  publicity,  because, 
in  common  with  all  Yankees,  I  have  thought 
and  spoken  unjustly  of  this  great  and  growing 
people.  I  may  be  deceived,  and  a  longer 
residence  here  may  disclose  more  of  the  de- 
pravity of  the  west,  but  I  have  charity  to 
think  less  evil  of  my  western  brethren  the 
more  I  see  of  them.  This  much  I  think  I 
may  safely  say  of  the  west ;  an  upright,  indus- 
trious, civil  man  has  nothing  to  fear  from 
fraud,  injustice,  or  Judge  Lynch  —  a  knave> 
every  thing. 

We  reached  Cincinnati  in  exactly  forty- 


28  WRECK    OF    THE    MOSELLE. 

eight  hours  from  Pittsburg.  We  remained 
hero  until  the  next  morning,  which  afforded 
me  a  fine  opportunity  to  examine  this  "  Queen 
City  of  the  West."  Among  other  places  I 
visited  the  wreck  of  the  ill-fated  Moselle. 
It  was  a  wreck  indeed,  one  awful  evidence 
among  the  many  of  the  terrible  power  which 
lies  buried  in  the  bosom  of  each  of  the  thou- 
sand boats  which  float  on  these  mighty  rivers, 
and  which  through  the  pride  or  carelessness, 
or  malignity  of  one  man,  may  belch  forth 
their  u  deaths  innumerable  and  miseries  infi- 
nite." And  yet  it  is  astonishing  how  our 
familiarity  with  danger  diminishes  our  fears. 
I  know  not  but,  after  the  first  day,  I  trod  the 
planks  of  our  boat  as  securely  and  carelessly 
as  the  floor  of  my  own  quiet  parlor.  The  ex- 
plosion of  the  Moselle  created  a  tremendous 
excitement,  and  produced  a  decided  effect  for 
good  on  the  managers  of  steamboats.  It  was 
a  general  remark  of  those  who  were  accus- 
tomed to  travel  up  and  down  these  rivers, 
that  they  had  never  seen  boats  managed  so 
prudently  as  at  the  present  time.  The  fact 
that  the  greatest  waste  of  life  occurs  among 


ITS    EFFECTS.  29 

the  officers  and  hands  of  the  boats,  does  much 
to  insure  safety  to  the  passengers,  especially 
when  we  reflect  that  nearly  all  accidents  occur 
through  sheer  carelessness  or  wilfulness.  On 
the  Moselle,  the  captain,  mate,  one  clerk, 
both  engineers,  both  pilots  (every  boat  has  a 
double  set)  and  every  hand  were  destroyed. 
Only  a  clerk  escaped. 


30  ST    LOUIS. 


CHAPTER     III  . 

St.  Louis— Immigration— Farmers  Immigrating — Encamp- 
ment on  the  Prairie— Rapid  growth  of  trees— Deharcation 
of  a  raft  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio — Timber  at  the  West. 

ALTON,  ILLINOIS,  JUNE  3,  1838. 

ST.  Louis  is  the  great  starting  point  of  the 
west.     Hither  from  every  quarter  of  the  east 
and  south,  travellers  and  immigrants  flock  in  un- 
counted numbers.     Every  hour  of  every  day 
they  are  disembogued  upon  the  beautiful  levee 
of  this  city  in  scores  on  scores,  seeking  plea- 
sure and  a  home  in  this  wondrous  world  just 
opening  to  them.     From  hence,   every  hour 
of  every  day  witnesseth  their  departure  ;  into 
the  interior  of  Missouri,  up  the  Mississippi, 
Missouri  or  Illinois  rivers,  to  the  vast  region 
of  country  which  these  streams  pass  through. 
An  eastern  man  can  have  no  idea  of  the  tide 
of  travel  on  these  mighty    waters,   which  are 
perpetually  agitated  with  the  paddles  of  those 
vast  floating  palaces  vulgarly  named  steam- 
boats, every   one  of  which  is  freighted  with 


IMMIGRATION.  31 

men,  women  and  children,  seeking  a  new 
home  in  this  new  world,  and  the  multitude  of 
which  would  actually  astonish  you  as  it  has, 
oftentimes,  me.  And,  perhaps,  not  half  the 
tide  of  immigration  pours  through  these  chan- 
nels. Hosts  of  farmers  with  their  families 
make  their  way  across  the  country  in  every 
direction,  in  their  own  private  conveyances. 
Already  have  I  passed  many  a  cavalcade  of 
this  kind,  which  has  at  oace  amused  and  aston- 
ished me.  Would  that  I  held  the  graphic 
pen  of  an  Irving  : — then  would  I  sketch  one  of 
these  sui  generis  cavalcades.  Imagine  one  of 
those  u  low,  long,  rakish,"  wagons,  peculiar 
to  western  Pennsylvania,  drawn  by  from  four 
to  six  noble  horses,  the  near  pole  horse  mount- 
ed by  a  ruddy,  stalwart  and  happy  fellow, 
whistling  on  his  way,  and  keeping  time  with 
the  crack  of  a  whip  which  reaches  the  farthest 
horse  in  the  team,  and  which  no  novice  arm 
could  wield,  the  stock  of  which  is  at  least  ten 
feet  in  length,  with  a  corresponding  extension 
of  lash.  In  the  small,  puckered  opening  of  the 
canvass  in  front,  some  half  dozen  faces  peer 
out,  of  all  sizes  and  of  each  sex.  Prominent 


32  FARMERS    IMMIGRATING. 

among  this  huddled  group  is  the  broad  and 
complacent  physiognomy  of  the  lord  of  the  es- 
tablishment, rejoicing  in  a  width  of  brim  which 
bids  defiance  to  the  rays  of  an  almost  vertical 
sun,  and  inhaling  from  a  pipe  of  such  figure 
and  dimensions  as  utterly  to  defy  description, 
long,  sweet,   and  composing  draughts  of  the 
"  care-banishing  narcotic."    Pacing  on  before, 
or  capering  across  the  prairie,  you  behold  the 
elder  sons  and  daughters  mounted  each  on  a 
nag  of  noble  blood,   with  an  occasional  foal 
trotting  beside,  whose  business  it  is,  not  only 
to  keep  along  on  the  way,  but  to  care  for  and 
direct  the  movements  of  as  motley  a  group  as 
entered  the  ark  of  the  patriarch.    Neat  kine,  a 
score,  of  as  many  colors  as  the  "ringed,  streak- 
ed and  speckled"  kine  of  the  banished  Israel- 
ites :  swine,  as   many,  red,   black,  white  and 
assorted,  and  a  few  fine,  large  sheep,  with  a 
sprinkling  of  colts,  compose  this  nondescript 
gathering.     Then  put  in  single  file  some  ten 
or  twenty  of  these  "families,"  and  you  have 
some  idea  of  the  imposing  spectacle.     But 
you  should  see  all  this  motley  multitude,  just 
as  they  have  encamped  for  the  night.     Horses, 


ENCAMPMENT  ON  THE  PRAIRIE.  33 

cattle,  dogs,  hogs  and  sheep  spread  over  the 
prairie  far  and  wide  ;  the  wagons  at  conven- 
ient distance  and  grouped  in  a  most  neighborly 
method,  each  with  its  cheerful  camp  fire  blaz- 
ing, and  its  camp-kettle  sending  forth  its  grate- 
ful steam  and  appetite-quickening  odor,  round 
which  you  behold  the  female  inmates  of  each 
family  busily  engaged  in  supper  preparations. 
Meanwhile  the  men  liberate  their  dusty  teams,, 
and  after  rubbing  them  down,  turn  them  loose 
upon  the  rich  and  unfenced  pastures,  or  grease 
their  axles,  and  repair  any  injuries  sustained 
by  the  rough  usage  of  the  wilderness  roads 
over  which  they  have  made,  it  may  be,  a  haz- 
ardous and  dangerous  way.  To  fill  up  the 
picture,  scores  of  happy  children,  glad  to  es- 
cape the  dull  monotony  of  their  slow  and  toil- 
some march,  mingle  in  clans,  capering  and 
shouting  on  the  beautiful  level,  plucking  the 
thousand  wild  flowers  which  bedeck  their  play- 
ground, or  rolling  in  very  plenary  of  joy  on  the 
luxuriant  carpet  which  covers  the  whole  space 
for  many  a  mile  around. 

These  are  colonies,  who  take  out  with  them 
all    the  necessary  articles    of    housekeeping 


34  RAPID    GROWTH    OF    TREES. 

which  are  not  easily  obtained  in  a  new  and 
unsettled  country,  with  plenty  of  cash  to  enter 
land  and  procure  what  they  need,  but  cannot 
take  along  with  them.  When  they  find  a  place 
suited  to  their  wants,  and  corresponding  to 
their  wishes,  they  make  a  halt,  take  immediate 
measures  to  secure  the  land,  erect  their  cabins, 
plough  their  land,  and  find  themselves  at  once 
at  home.  The  edge  of  a  prairie  is  generally 
selected,  near  the  timber  or  "  oak  openings," 
as  they  are  called,  where  wood  for  every  pur- 
pose may  easily  be  obtained.  The  soil  gener- 
ally is  better  in  proportion  as  you  penetrate  the 
prairie,  and  immigrants  are  just  beginning  to 
make  the  discovery  that  the  central  ground  of 
a.  prairie,  provided  it  be  not  too  far  from  wood 
for  present  purposes,  is  altogether  the  best  for 
cultivation,  beauty  of  location  and  health.  I 
say  wood  for  u  present"  purposes  ;  for  if  a 
settler  can  but  supply  his  immediate  wants,  he 
may  plant  and  speedily  obtain  a  forest  in  his 
immediate  domain.  The  rapid  growth  of  fruit 
and  forest  trees  is  indeed  wonderful.  I  was 
recently  at  a  new  settlement  in  the  midst  of  a 
large  prairie  about  sixteen  miles  from  Alton, 


RAFTS  AND  FLAT  BOATS.        35> 

to  which  from  its  altitude  they  have  given  the- 
patriotic  name  of  Bunker  Hill.  I  saw  in  that 
lovely  spot,  locust  trees,  just  two  years  from 
the  seed  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  high,  and  eight 
inches  in  circumference.  I  saw  there,  peach 
trees  three  years  from  the  seed,  loaded  with 
fruit,  some  of  which  I  should  think  would  yield 
bushels  ;  and  apple  trees,  four  years  old  from 
the  seed,  bearing  a  fittle  fruit.  In  six  years 
a  farmer  may  raise  from  the  seed  a  forest  which 
will  meet  every  want.  The  locust  tree  is 
found  to  be  very  easily  wrought,  and  to  pos- 
sess a  durability  which  few  western  trees  do. 
But  I  intend  speaking  more  largely  on  this 
point  elsewhere  and  now  pass  it  by. 

Besides  the  modes  of  immigration  above  de- 
scribed, there  are  others  by  which  thousands 
every  year  are  transferred  to  the  West.  I 
mean  the  raft  and  flat  boat.  Down  all  the 
streams  which  feed  the  Ohio,  float  daily  im- 
mense rafts  of  timber  and  flat  boats,  peopled 
with  immigrants.  These  sail  down  the  current 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  and  there  they  are- 
broken  up,  put  on  board  steamboats  and  taken 
to  St.  Louis,  from  whence  their  contents  are 


36  DEBARCATION    OF    A    RAFT 

distributed  over  all  the  country,  and  the  people 
thereof  seek  their  destination  by  the  usual 
methods.  It  was  my  good  fortune  to  witness 
the  debarcation  of  one  of  these  rafts.  It  oc- 
curred at  mid-day  on  the  Sabbath,  within  a 
few  miles  of  the  mouth  of  the  river.  It  con- 
sisted of  three  distinct  rafts,  lashed  together 
for  mutual  aid  and  convenience,  making  one 
grand  concern,  of  about  two  hundred  feet  in 
length  and  about  sixty  wide.  At  each  end, 
were  three  immense  oars,  or  rudders,  by  which 
the  unwieldy  mass  was  guided.  On  this  raft 
were  several  families,  with  every  appointment 
of  the  western  immigrant.  In  the  centre  stood 
a  rude  but  comfortable  shantee,  at  once  a  par- 
lor, kitchen,  bedroom  and  storehouse.  The 
funnel  of  a  capital  cook-stove  pierced  the 
rough  roof,  and  the  outsides  of  its  walls  were 
hung  with  a  mixed  tapestry  of  meats,  sporting 
apparatus,  and  every  variety  of  male  and  female 
wearing  apparel.  Its  interior  I  did  not  see, 
but  judging  from  the  many  articles  of  conven- 
ience and  even  luxury  which  issued  therefrom 
in  its  evacuation — a  process  which  I  witnessed 
with  peculiar  emotions — there  must  have  been 


AT  THE  MOUTH  OF  THE  OHIO.  37 

no  small  share  of  real  comfort  and  enjoyment 
within  those  rude  walls,  during  the  three  long 
weeks  of  their  tortuous  passage  from  the  head 
waters  of  the  Monongahela.  Horses,  dogs, 
ploughs,  wagons,  the  anvil,  bellows  and  other 
appurtenances  of  a  smithy,  and  every  imple- 
ment of  husbandry,  were  scattered  about  in 
wild  disorder.  Twenty  men,  half  as  many 
women,  with  a  due  proportion  of  children,  all 
neatly  clad  in  their  Sunday  suit,  and  apparently 
quite  intelligent,  comprised  the  reasoning  por- 
tion of  this  wonder.  Their  unlading  and  em- 
barkation on  board  our  boat,  was  to  me  a  nov- 
el, picturesque  and  impressive  sight.  Oh, 
how  I  longed  for  the  pencil  of  a  Hogarth,  that 
I  might  transmit  to  paper  that  interesting  scene! 
There  lay  that  giant  raft,  tethered  to  the  roots 
of  the  tall,  dark  cottonwood  trees  that  spread 
their  thick  branches  quite  across  it,  like  some 
dreamy  sleeper  unconscious  of  all  the  bustle 
on  its  ample  back.  The  thick  canebrake  on 
shore  swarmed  with  the  numerous  passengers 
who  were  glad  of  a  chance  to  set  foot  on  land, 
and  the  natives  who  had  come  to  witness  the 
scene,  who  were  calling  to  each  other  in  cheer- 
4 


38  TIMBER    AT    THE    WEST. 

ful  tones,  from  the  midst  of  the  tangled  cane, 
and  answered  by  the  shrill  bark  and  howl  of 
the  canine  sharers  in  the  sport.  At  length 
the  last  article  was  safely  deposited,  the  bell 
warned  those  on  shore  of  our  readiness  to  de- 
part, the  last  straggler  crossed  the  plank  when 
it  was  drawn  in,  and  the  word  heartily  given, 
"  all  right,"  the  boat  swung  round  and  fell  into 
the  current,  and  with  a  farewell  puff  from  our 
steam  pipe,  and  a  cheer  from  the  three  young 
men  left  on  the  raft  to  break  it  up,  we  once 
more  ploughed  our  rapid  way. 

The  raft  was  composed  entirely  of  pine 
plank  and  shingles,  and  was  variously  estima- 
ted at  from  five  to  fifteen  thousand  dollars, 
when  it  should  reach  St.  Louis.  Pine  timber 
grows  no  where  at  the  West,  until  you  reach 
the  extreme  upper  waters  of  the  Mississippi  ; 
consequently,  it  bears  a  very  high  price  arid 
finds  a  ready  market.  The  cottonwood, 
lynn  and  cypress  are  here  the  only  substi- 
tutes which  I  have  seen,  and  which  are  found 
only  on  the  heavy  bottoms  of  the  rivers. 
Their  texture  is  very  similar  to  our  bass  and 
white  poplar,  and  can  easily  be  wrought  into 


TIMBER   AT    THE    WEST.  39 

smoothness.  Black  walnut  abounds  here, 
and  is  generally  used  for  boards  for  covering 
houses,  and  for  fences  ;  but  its  rich  and  vari- 
egated surface  is  generally  covered  up  with  a 
rascally  coat  of  whitewash  or  paint.  But  the 
oak — king  of  the  forest — is  the  staple  article 
of  lumber,  and  most  generally  used,  where  we 
in  the  east  use  the  white  pine.  There  are 
here  also,  the  maple  and  white  walnut,  (but- 
ternut,) which  are  partially  used  for  these 
purposes.  The  growth  of  wood  is  very  rap- 
id, and  consequently  it  is  less  hard  and  dura- 
ble, as  well  as  more  easily  wrought.  For  in- 
instance,  black  walnut  is  as  readily  wrought 
as  northern  pitch,  or  hard  pine. 


40  MISSISSIPPI    RIVER. 


CHAPTER    IV. 

Mississippi  River— Missouri  River— Waters  of  the  Missouri 
medicinal— Bluffs  and  bottoms  on  the  Mississippi— Scene 
by  moonlight. 

ALTON,  ILLINOIS,  JUNE  7,  1835. 

I  LEFT  St.  Louis  in  the  steam-packet  Eagle 
on  Monday,  May  27,  and  made  the  trip  to 
Alton  in  four  hours.  Distance  tweutyfive 
miles.  I  am  thus  particular,  that  my  readers 
may  have  some  idea  of  the  rapidity  of  the  cur- 
rent in  the  Mississipi.  The  Eagle  is  one  of 
the  swiftest  boats  on  the  river,  and  often  ac- 
complishes the  downward  trip  in  half  the  time 
it  requires  to  ascend  the  same  distance. 
Indeed,  the  river,  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Missouri,  is  one  continuous  succession  of 
rapids.  The  water  boils,  and  surges,  and 
eddies  as  if  it  were  passing  over  a  wild  and 
rocky  bed,  whose  rough  points  project  near 
the  surface,  instead  of  a  smooth  and  muddy 
bottom,  with  scarcely  any  where,  except  on 
the  sandbars,  less  than  ten,  and  often  more 
than  fifty  feet  of  water.  Above  the  mouth  of 


MISSOURI    RIVER.  41 

the  Missouri  the  river  becomes  more  placid 
and  its  current  much  less  rapid,  although  it  is 
even  here  a  bold  and  rapid  stream.  The 
Missouri,  as  every  school-boy  knows,  after 
the  Ohio,  is  the  largest  tributary  to  the  father 
of  waters,  larger,  indeed,  than  the  main  branch 
which  retains  its  name.  The  Missouri  is  an 
anomaly  among  rivers.  For  thousands  of 
miles  it  pursues  its  eccentric  course,  pouring 
its  turbulent  and  muddy  waters  through  a  vast 
and  various  region,  wild  and  beautiful  as  itself, 
swallowing  up  many  large  streams  in  its 
course,  yet  scarcely  by  them  all,  diluted  from 
its  thick,  milk-colored  consistence,  which  it 
not  only  retains  throughout  all  its  sinuous 
course,  but  which  in  the  might  of  its  sway,  it 
separately  maintains,  for  a  long  course  in  con- 
junction with  the  Mississippi,  and  infuses 
itself  throughout  the  whole  stream,  and  gives 
the  color  and  character  to  that  mighty  river, 
until  it  is  swallowed  up  by  the  sea.  And, 
indeed,  it  seems  to  struggle  hard  for  its  inde- 
pendence even  here  ;  coloring,  as  it  does,  the 
waters  the  gulf  for  many  a  league  beyond  its 
confluence. 

4* 


42  MISSISSIPPI    RIVER. 

It  was  interesting  as  it  was  wonderful  to  us, 
as  we  crossed  and  re-crossed  the  stream  on  our 
upward  way,  to  mark  the  exact  line  of  sep- 
aration between  these  two  rival  rivers.     Side 
by  side  they  flow  on  in  their  individual  inde- 
pendence, each  seeming  unwilling  to  assimi- 
late with  the  other,  and  striving  to  oust  each 
other  from  the  course  —  the  clear  waters  of 
the   Mississippi    slightly   tinged   with  green, 
glancing  from  its  bright  surface  the  rainbow 
sparkles  of  sunlight,  more  brillant  than  any 
gems  ;  and  the  Missouri,  dull,  stern,  opaque, 
beautiful  but  in  its  awful  grandeur,  tumbling  on 
its  wild  way  as  if  conscious  of  the  respect  it 
receives,    and    its    superiority    to    its    rival, 
which,  ere  long,  is  destined  to  be  vanquished, 
and  all  its  bright  and  beautiful  hues  swallowed 
up  in  its  own  dark  and  beauty-defacing  waters. 
The  water  of  the  Missouri  is  esteemed  by  the 
people  residing  on  its  banks,  and  those  of  the 
Mississippi,  a  great  luxury,  and  is  much  pre- 
fered,  in  all  its   muddiness,  to   the   clearest 
spring-water.     It  is  said  to  be   much  more 
healthy  ;  and  many  affirm  that  it  is  a  sove- 
reign remedy  for  dispepsy.     It   has   a  very 


MISSOURI    WATER    MEDICINAL.  43 

palatable  taste,  when  iced,  to  a  stranger, 
even,  and  when  he  has  overcome  his  repug- 
nance to  its  color  and  consistency,  he  prefers 
it  to  the  more  limpid  water  of  the  Mississippi. 
On  unacclimated  persons  it  acts  as  a  powerful 
purgative,  and  produces,  unless  checked, 
great  depletion.  But  on  the  resident  it  oper- 
ates as  a  gentle  and  agreeable  aperient.  When 
the  river  is  high,  as  in  a  freshet,  the  water  is 
very  thick  and  white,  being  full  of  exceed- 
ingly fine  white  sand  which  it  has  brought 
from  the  upper  regions  of  Missouri  ;  but  it 
readily  settles  when  at  rest  —  which  is  greatly 
aided  by  a  little  corn-meal  throwrn  into  it  — 
'and  becomes  comparatively  clear,  appearing 
as  if  it  were  slightly  tinged  with  milk. 

Above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  the  Mis- 
sissippi is  changed  to  a  comparatively  placid 
stream,  and  to  my  apprehension,  a  much  more 
beautiful  one.  From  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio 
on  the  Illinois  side  up  to  Alton,  with  one  or 
two  exceptions,  there  is  an  unbroken  wild  of 
timber.  This  is  the  far-famed  "American 
bottom,"  so  rich  and  exhaustless  in  its  soil, 
but  so  deletereous  in  its  climate  as  to  be 


44  BLUFFS    ON    THE 

utterly  uninhabitable  save  by  those  born  upon 
the  spot.  This  bottom  is  from  a  mile  to  seven 
and  eighth  in  width,  and  consequently,  utterly 
defies,  the  discovery  of  the  beautiful  bluffs  be- 
yond, by  the  passers  up  and  down  the  river. 
This  continuous  waste  of  forest,  with  its  trees 
kissing  the  very  wave,  this  dull,  unvarying 
monotony  wearies  the  eye,  and  gives  a  stran- 
ger the  idea,  that  the  whole  country  below  St. 
Louis,  is  an  unbroken  and  uninhabitable  level 
—  a  more  incorrect  conclusion  than  which,  as 
the  sequel  of  these  letter  will  show,  could  not 
have  been  formed. 

On  the  Mississippi  side,  on  the  contrary, 
there  are  continual  approaches  of  the  bluffs  to. 
the  very  bank  of  the  river.  These  bluffs  are 
composed  of  limestone,  and  often  tower  per- 
pendicularly to  the  height  of  a  hundred  feet. 
They  assume  all  imaginable  forms,  and  the 
regularity  of  the  various  layers  of  these  im- 
mense piles  of  rock,  almost  forces  the  conclu- 
sion, that  the  masonry  is  of  earthly  design  and 
execution.  In  some  places  immense  pillars 
of  regular  form  and  masonry  rise  to  a  great 
height,  and  seem  designed  for  the  base  of  some 


MISSISSIPPI     RIVER.  45 

stupendous  fabric  not  yet  completed,  or  else 
which  is  frittered  away  by  the  wearing  passage 
of  time,  until  it  has  disappeared  forever  ;  or 
overthrown  by  some  mighty  convulsion  — not 
mighty  enough  to  remove  the  base,  eternally 
anchored  —  its  ruins  have  been  swept  away 
by  the  devouring  current  which  rolls  resist- 
lessly  at  their  feet.  Sometimes  the  tops  are 
crowned  with  a  lofty  growth  of  timber,  among 
which  the  buzzards  build  their  nests,  far  out 
of  the  reach  of  men.  From  these  giddy 
eyries,  startled  by  the  puffing  of  our  laboring 
boat,  they  wheeled  beautifully  out  in  scores  to 
give  us  a  passing  look,  and  stooping  often  to 
take  a  nearer  survey  —  even  then  far  beyond 
the  reach  of  the  many  shot  that  were  sent 
after  them  by  several  sportsmen  on  board,  and 
at  which  they  did  not  flutter  a  feather  —  they 
rose  majestically  and  swept  away  to  their  in- 
accessible hiding  places.  Many  of  these 
rocky  prominences  were  partially  crowned 
with  shrubs  and  flowers  —  others  naked  as  the 
rock  of  Gibraltar,  with  rude  shot-towers  on 
the  top.  At  the  time  we  sailed  up  the  river, 
our  eyes  were  regaled  with  the  thousand  hues 


46  MOONLIGHT    ON    THE 

of  the  countless  wild  flowers  which  luxuriated 
in  the  clefts  of  the  rock  far  out  of  the  reach 
of  mortal  hand,  or  the  rude  hoof  of  the  graz- 
ing cattle  which  sometimes  peered  at  us  from 
the  top  of  the  precipice  which  was  level  with 
the  rich  and  boundless  pastures  through  which 
they  range  at  will.  *  Among  others  I  discov- 
ered three  varieties  of  phlox,  the  showy  scar- 
let fireweed,  the  splendid  tradescantia,  and 
the  yellow  and  white  mocassin  flower,  the 
latter  the  most  beautiful  of  the  floral  tribe. 

Occasionally  were  to  be  seen,  between  the 
openings  of  the  bluffs,  small  prairies  already 
cultivated,  from  which  the  ground  rose  in 
gentle  acclivity  to  the  top  of  the  bluffs,  af- 
fording the  most  lovely  spots  for  human  habi- 
tation. These  sites,  interspersed  with  lofty 
trees,  so  beautiful  and  fitting  for  a  HOME.,  so 
rich  and  fertile,  and  withal  so  healthy  and  so 
full  of  all  natural  delights,  are,  most  of  them, 
but  the  resting  place  of  those  "  cattle  upon  a 
thousand  hills,"  which  screen  themselves  in  the 
luxuriant  shade  from  the  scorching  beams  of 
an  almost  vertical  sun.  A  few  of  these  have 
been  already  seized  on  by  men  of  wealth  and 


ILLINOIS    RIVER.  47 

taste,  and  before  many  years  they  will  all  be- 
come the  delightful  centres  of  home-attrac- 
tions, and  spots  of  loveliness  on  the  shore  of 
this  rolling  flood  of  waters. 

Above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri  the  bluffs 
change  to  the  opposite  shore,  and  the  same 
dull,  level  bottom  prevails  upon  the  Missouri 
side,  which  has  so  long  wearied  the  eye  upon 
the  Illinois  side.  Alton  is  situated  at  the  foot 
of  and  upon  the  first  bluffs  on  this  side  of  the 
river  ;  and  from  thence  up  far  above  the  mouth 
of  the  Illinois  river,  they  continue  in  their  broken 
and  unequalled  beauty.  Nothing  of  the  kind 
can  exceed  the  solemn  beauty  and  grandeur 
of  these  rugged  highlands  when  seen  from  the 
river  by  moonlight.  I  have  sat  for  hours  upon 
the  rear  guard  of  our  creeping  boat  to  gaze  at 
their  illusive  beauties.  It  requires  no  poet's 
imagination  to  people  them  with  light  and  life, 
with  form  and  color.  Nay,  it  requires  a 
sterner  philosophy  than  I  possess  to  rob  them 
of  their  ideal  charm,  and  to  resolve  all  that 
scene  of  constantly  changing  beauty  and  of 
life,  to  piles  of  dull,  insensate  limestone. 
No.  no.  Sunlight  might  have  dissipated  the 


48  VISIONARY 

"  dear,  delusive  dream,"  but  that  false,  fickle 
light,  "  reflected,  not  originated,"  —  pale, 
thin,  impalpable  —  forbade  the  sacrilegious 
thought,  that  those  beauteous  temples,  domes, 
spires  and  turrets,  were  -aught  else  than  the 
visioned  things  they  seemed.  No  wonder  that 
the  now  banished  Indian,  filled  these  heaven- 
struck  temples  with  the  bones  of  their  fallen, 
when  their  silent  canoe  glided  down  this 
stream  so  noiselessly,  that  the  sleeping  swan 
was  undisturbed  by  the  paddle's  dip,  and  the 
unafFrighted  deer  drank  from  its  limpid  wave 
in  conscious  security.  No  wonder  that  they 
peopled  these  wild  caves  with  spirits  of  the 
air  and  of  their  deprated  braves.  How  many 
a  wild  shriek  has  rung  through  these  tassella- 
ted  arches  as  the  husband  and  father  was  borne 
thither  from  the  gory  field  of  fight  and  fame  ! 
How  have  those  wild  rocks  been  wet  with  the 
maternal  tear,  and  their  echoes  broken  with 
the  lover's  sad  lament  !  Are  ye  not  peopled, 
ye  deep  and  solemn  aisles  ?  Dressed  up  in 
your  wild  and  gorgeous  beauty,  are  ye  not 
animate  with  the  thoughts  and  doings  which 
never  die  ?  And  was  I  wrong,  when,  from 


REFLECTIONS.  49 

thy  pillared  courts,  bursts  of  sweet  music,  such 
as  earthly  harps  never  emit  and  mortal  voices 
never  chant,  seemed  to  float  around,  above, 
below,  and  fill  my  soul  with  peace  and  heav- 
en ?  Away,  thou  dull  philosophy,  that  fain 
would  rob  us  of  these  "  angel  visits,"  and 
make  all  the  scenes  of  this  work-day  world, 
dark  and  thorny  as  its  sun-lit  paths  ! 


50  LEGENDARY   LOJRE 


CHAPTER    V. 

Tradition  of  the  Piasau  Bird— Legendary  lore  of  the  West—- 
The West  once  occupied  by  a  race  of  giants — A  race  of 
pigmies — Strange  beasts  and  birds — Appearance  of  the 
Piasau  Bird— Description  of  it — Origin  of  its  name — Fear- 
ful destruction  by  it— Its  death. 

ALTON,  ILLINOIS,  JUNE  10,  1838. 

I  SPOKE,  in  my  last,  of  the  curious  legen- 
dary lore  which  one  has  doled  out  to  him  by 
the  "  old  settlers"  of  the  West.  Much  of 
this  is  singularly  enough  connected  with  a 
most  antique  race  of  men,  unlike  and  superior 
to  the  red  man,  and  speaks  of  a  time  and  age 
greatly  superior  to  the  present  in  its  physical 
organization  —  when  the  men  were  Anakims, 
and  the  behemoth  strode  over  these  prairies, 
monarch  of  the  plains.  What  are  the  men  of 
this  pigmy  age  to  the  colossal  warriors  of 
those  undegenerate  times  —  our  Lilliputian 
beasts  to  the  monstrous  and  outre  extraver- 
sions  of  those  fecund  eras  ?  Strange  men  and 
stranger  beasts  occupied  this  fertile  vale,  and 
of  all  the  wild  and  wonderful  adventure  of  that 


OF    THE    WEST.  51 

unvvrought  age,  eternal  silence  claims  the 
whole,  save  here  and  there  a  dreamy  legend, 
growing  out  of  the  imperishable  mementoes 
they  have  left  behind.  I  seem  to  behold,  as 
I  look  back  through  the  mist  of  the  past,  a 
fearful  void  —  waste  on  waste  and  darkness 
unrelieved  —  with  here  and  there  a  projecting 
point,  misshapen  and  scarcely  real,  —  yet  full 
of  fearful  beauty  and  strange  deformity.  In- 
numerable mounds  of  earth,  cast  up  with 
wonderful  care  and  toil,  of  various  dimensions 
and  shapes,  plainly  the  work  of  men's  hands, 
from  which,  from  time  to  time,  have  been 
disembowelled  relics  of  an  unknown  and  near- 
ly civilized  race  —  caverns  in  the  rugged  and 
beautiful  bluffs  which  hang  over  all  the  wild 
rivers  of  the  West,  full  of  the  bones  of  a  triple 
race  of  giants,  dwarfs  and  men  of  common 
stature,  and  of  beasts  such  as  are  now  extinct, 
curious  in  their  form  and  gigantic  in  their  pro- 
portions— those  huge  and  misshapen  fragments 
of  granite,  called  boulders,  scattered  sparsely 
enough  over  those  boundless  champagnes, 
placed  there,  sans  doubte,  by  human  exertion, 
for  some,  to  us,  unimaginable  purposes  — 


52  TRADITION    OF 

skeletons  of  the  mastodon  and  behemoth,  dug 
out  from  surprising  depths  below  the  present 
surface  of  the  soil  —  these,  with  the  legends  of 
animals  belonging  to  no  known  tribes  or  races, 
monstrous  abortions  of  nature  —  fish,  fowl  and 
beast,  commingled  in  hideous  proportions  — 
all,  all  amuse  and  confound,  baffle  conjecture 
and  bar  all  access  to  those  arcana,  so  rich  in 
hidden  knowledge,  so  impenetrable  to  human 
ken  !  What  a  strange  world  we  live  in,  and 
how  insignificant  the  part  we  individually  act 
therein.  What  an  untold,  unimaginable  tale 
of  other  times  should  we  read,  could  we  but 
explore  the  sealed  pages  of  the  past !  And 
yet  the  future  may  be  as  monumentless  of  our 
times  and  acts,  vaunted  and  puffed  up  as  we 
are  in  our  own  imaginations,  as  the  present  of 
the  past ! 

But  what  has  all  this  to  do  with  the  tradition 
of  the  Piasau  Bird  9  Much,  as  the  sequel 
will  show.  It  will  serve  to  throw  light  upon 
the  story,  and  give  it  substance,  tangibility. 

Time  out  of  mind,  the  powerful  tribe  which 
dwelt  in  the  region  of  country  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Alton,  was'  called  the  Illini,  or 


THE    PIASAtt    BIRO.  53 

Illinois,  and  from  which  the  present  state 
derives  its  name.  This  tribe  extended  far 
and  wide,  and  numbered  many  thousand  war* 
riors  whose  valor  and  craftiness  ensured  them 
success  over  all  their  enemies.  Their  hunt- 
ing grounds  extended  for  many  a  league  below 
and  above  the  location  of  their  city,  which 
was  situated  upon  the  bold  bluffs  now  re- 
sounding with  the  Jbusy  hum  of  life  and  labor 
from  the  growing  city  of  Alton.  Thence  to 
the  waters  of  the  Wabash  in  the  east,  they 
held  unlimited  sway,  and  ranged  the  unbroken 
forests  and  unfenced  prairies  freely  and  fear* 
lessly  as  the  stag  and  buffalo  which  they  hunt- 
ed. There  they  lived  and  triumphed,  multi- 
plying and  increasing  in  wealth  and  power, 
fearless  of  invasion  and  commanding  the  res- 
pect and  exciting  the  envy  of  each  lesser  tribe 
around.  No  warriors  so  brave,  no  horses  so 
beautiful  and  fleet,  no  hosts  so  invincible,  as 
those  of  the  Illinois. 

In   the  midst  of  their   prosperity,  in  the 
reign  of  the  illustrious   Owatoga,  chief  to  this 
warlike  tribe  —  whose  name  to  this  day  is  ut- 
tered with  the  profoundest  reverence  by  every 
5* 


64  THfc    PlAgAti    BIRO. 

Indian  warrior,  and  whose  virtue  and  noble1 
daring  they  emulate  —  many,  many  hundred 
moons  before  the  oars  of  the  white  man  dip- 
ped in  the  curling  wave  of  the  "  Father  of 
Waters,"  they  were  terrified  with  a  fearful 
visitation  from  the  Great  Spirit.  There  ap* 
peared  upon  the  inaccessible  bluffs,  where  it 
made  its  home,  an  immense  and  hideous 
animal,  half  bird,  half  bea&t,  which,  from  the 
circumstance  of  its  having  wings,  they  called 
the  Piasau  Bird.  This  name,  like  all  Indian 
names,  is  significant  of  the  character  of  the 
monster  which  it  designates  —  it  means  u  the 
man-destroying  Bird."  This  bird  is  de- 
scribed as  being  of  gigantic  size,  capable  of 
bearing  off  with  ease  in  its  talons,  a  horse  or 
buffalo.  Its  head  and  beak  were  like  those  of 
a  vulture,  with  eyes  of  the  most  dazzling 
brilliancy  ;  its  wings  black  as  the  raven  and 
clothed  with  thunder,  making  a  most  fearful 
noise  in  its  heavy  flight ;  its  legs,  four  in 
number,  and  talons  like  those  of  a  mighty 
eagle  ;  its  body  similar  to  that  of  a  dragon, 
ending  with  a  tail  of  huge  dimensions  like  to 
a  scorpion.  Its  body  was  gorgeously  colored 


FEARFUL  DESTRUCTION  BY  IT.      55 

with  every  hue,  and  in  its  flight  it  made  a  most 
imposing  spectacle,  inspiring  terror,  awe  and 
wonder.  Such  was  this  strange  visiter  who 
had  taken  up  its  abode  in  their  sacred  cliffs  ; 
and  while  their  priests  were  studying  the 
omen,  whether  it  should  be  for  good  or  for 
evil,  all  doubt  was  dissipated  by  the  sudden 
descent  of  the  bird  into  their  midst,  which 
seized  one  of  their  bravest  warriors  in  its  tal- 
ons and  bore  him  as  a  prey  to  its  wild  eyrie 
in  the  rocks.  Never  again  was  the  unfortu- 
nate victim  seen  by  his  friends.  But  the 
sacrifice  was  not  complete.  Brave  after 
brave,  and  women  and  children  not  a  few, 
were  borne  off  in  succession  by  the  fierce  de- 
vourer,  whose  appetite  seemed  but  to  be 
whetted  to  a  keener  set,  the  more  it  tasted  of 
human  blood. 

Such  was  the  fearful  state  of  things,  when 
the  brave  Owatoga,  chief  of  this  mighty  tribe, 
sought  out  his  priests,  and  with  them  retiring 
to  a  secret  place,  fasted  many  days,  and  with 
all  the  mummery  of  their  religion,  sought  the 
will  of  the  Great  Spirit.  At  length,  in  a 
trance,  it  was  revealed  to  Owatoga,  that  the 


56  OWATOGA. 

terrible  visitant,  who  had  hitherto  eluded  their* 
utmost  sagacity,  might  be  destroyed.  The 
mode  was  this.  First,  a  noble  victim  was  to 
be  selected  from  among  the  bravest  warriors 
of  the  tribe,  who  by  religious  rites  was  to  be 
sanctified  for  the  sacrifice.  Secondly,  twenty, 
equally  as  brave,  with  their  stoutest  bows  and 
sharpest  arrows,  were  to  conceal  themselves 
near  the  spot  of  sacrifice.  The  victim  was 
to  be  led  forth,  and  singly  to  take  his  stand 
upon  an  exposed  point  of  the  rock,  where  the 
ravenous  bird  would  be  likely  to  note  and 
seize  upon  him.  At  the  moment  of  descent 
the  concealed  warriors  were  to  let  fly  their 
arrows,  with  the  assurance  that  he  would  fall* 
On  the  day  appointed,  the  braves,  armed 
agreeably  to  the  instructoin  of  the  vision, 
safely  reached  their  hiding  place,  which  com- 
manded a  full  view  of  the  fatal  platform.  The 
name  of  the  victim  had  been  kept  profoundly 
secret,  up  to  the  sacrificial  hour.  Judge, 
then,  the  consternation,  when,  dressed  in  his 
proudest  robes,  Owatoga  appeared  at  the  head 
of  his  tribe,  himself  the  voluntary  victim. 
The  tears  and  shrieks  of  the  women,  and  the 


HIS    SPEECH.  57 

expostulations  of  all  his  chiefs  availed  nothing  ; 
he  was  bent  upon  his  solemn  and  awful 
purpose.  •'  Brothers  and  children,"  he  ad- 
dressed them,  waving  his  hand  in  which  he 
held  a  short  wand,  and  which  procured  for 
him  instant  and  profound  audience,  uthe 
Great  Spirit  is  angry  with  his  children.  He 
hath  sent  us  this  scourge  to  punish  us  for  our 
sins.  He  hath  demanded  this  sacrifice.  Who 
so  fit  as  your  chief  ?  The  blood  of  my  heart 
is  pure.  Who  will  bring  any  charge  against 
Owatoga  ?  Many  moons  have  I  been  your 
chieftain.  I  have  led  you  to  conquest  and 
glory.  I  have  but  this  sacrifice  to  make,  and 
I  am  a  free  spirit.  I  am  a  dry  tree,  leafless 
and  branchless.  Soon  shall  I  sink  upon  the 
wide  prairie  and  moulder  away.  Cherish  and 
obey  the  sapling  that  springs  up  at  my  root. 
May  he  be  braver  and  wiser  than  his  sire. 
And  when  the  Great  Spirit  smiles  upon  you 
and  delivers  you,  forget  not  the  sacrifice  of 
Owatoga.  Hinder  me  not  —  I  go  forth  to 
the  sacrifice." 

With  a  calm  and  proud   bow  walked  forth 
the  doomed  leader  of  the  mighty  Illinis,   and 


58  DEATH    OP 

took  his  station  on  the  appointed  spot.  Soon 
was  the  ill-omened  bird  seen  hovering  over 
the  place,  and  after  wheeling  about  for  a  few 
moments  high  above  the  head  of  the  devoted 
chief,  nearing  at  each  gyration  the  unquailing 
victim,  suddenly  he  came  thundering  down 
towards  his  prize.  In  an  instant,  the  barbed 
arrows  from  twenty  sure  bows  buried  them- 
selves to  the  feather  in  the  body  of  the  common 
foe,  and  he  fell  quivering  and  dead  at  the  feet 
of  the  noble  chieftain  —  himself  escaping  un- 
scathed ! 

Unbounded  joy  and  rejoicing  succeeded 
the  eventful  day.  Owatoga  was  borne  to  the 
council-room  of  the  village  in  triumph,  and 
each  one  gave  himself  up  to  the  wild  tumult 
of  joy  which  everywhere  prevailed.  After  due 
deliberation,  it  was  determined  to  perpetuate 
the  event  by  engraving  the  picture  of  the 
Piasau  Bird  upon  the  smooth-sided  limestone 
cliffs,  which  tower  above  the  river.  There 
it  was  done,  and  stained  with  the  fast  and 
fadeless  colors,  whose  subtle  compounding  the 
Indian  only  knows,  and  which  remain  plainly 
visible  to  the  present  day.  The  spot  became 


THE    PIASAU    BIRD.  59 

sacred  from  that  time,  and  no  Indian  ascended 
or  descended  the  Father  of  Waters  for  many 
a  year  without  discharging  his  arrow  at  the 
image  of  the  warrior-destroying  Bird.  After 
the  distribution  of  fire-arms  among  the  Indians, 
bullets  were  substituted  for  arrows,  and  even 
to  this  day  no  savage  presumes  to  pass  that 
magic  spot  without  discharging  his  rifle  and 
raising  his  shout  of  triumph.  I  visited  the 
spot  in  June  (1838)  and  examined  the  image, 
and  the  ten  thousand  bullet-marks  upon  the 
cliff  seemed  to  coroborate  the  tradition  related 
to  me  in  the  neighborhood.  So  lately  as  the 
passage  of  the  Sac  and  Fox  delegations  down 
the  river  on  their  way  to  Washington,  there 
was  a  general  discharge  of  their  rifles  at  the 
Piasau  Bird.  On  arriving  at  Alton,  they  went 
on  shore  in  a  body,  and  proceeded  to  the 
bluffs,  where  they  held  a  solemn  war-council, 
concluding  the  whole  with  a  splendid  war 
dance,  manifesting  all  the  while  the  most  exu- 
berant joy. 

This  is  the  tradition  of  the  "  Piasau  Bird," 
which  seems  to  have  been  handed  down  from 
father  to  son  through  remote  periods  of  anti- 


60  TRADITION. 

quity.  That  such  a  monster  ever  existed,  I 
cannot  vouch — that  its  image  is  engraven 
upon  the  rock  I  know  ;  and  that  the  aforesaid 
monster  should  have  existed  in  flesh  and 
blood,  is  not  more  strange  than  other  "  real 
fictions"  of  this  wonderful  valley.  But  I  give 
it  to  my  readers  as  I  found  it  - —  they  must 
draw  their  own  conclusions.  It  is,  I  think, 
worthy  to  be  snatched  from  decay,  and  de- 
serves to  be  recorded  for  the  edification  and 
instruction  of  the  world.  Tradition  is  the 
only  history  of  those  early  times,  and  soon,  in 
this  utilitarian  world,  even  these  vestiges  of  a 
great  and  wonderful  race  will  be  swept  into 
oblivion,  if  no  one  be  found,  with  pious  care, 
to  rear  them  into  a  monumental  pillar  of  his- 
tory. 


ILLINOIS    RIVER. 


CHAPTER   VI, 

Illinois  River — Peoria — Comfort  on  board  a  Steam  Packet — 
Bribing  the  Steward— Debarcation  of  an  immigrating  fam- 
ily at  Naples — Bottoms  unhealthy — A  wise  provision  of 
Nature — The  West  destined  to  greatness. 

PEORIA,  ILLINOIS,  JUNE  20r  1838. 

I  ARRIVED  at  Peoria,  June  9,  at  three 
o'clock,  A.  M.,  in  the  steamboat  Ashley, 
Capt.  Sweeny.  This  is  a  new  boat  and  a> 
regular  packet,  plying  between  St.  Louis  and 
Peru  once  a  week  each  way.  Capt.  S.  is  a 
very  affable,  courteous  and  careful  boat-mas- 
ter, keeping  a  vigilant  eye  on  every  depart- 
ment of  his  boat  ;  now  giving  orders  to  the 
fireman,  now  the  engineer,  anon  the  pilot,  and 
then  the  hands.  I  have  never  seen  a  man. 
more  devoted  to  his  business,  and  in  whose 
hands  I  would  sooner  trust  myself  as  the 
master  of  a  boat  on.  the  western  waters.  I  had 
waited  at  Alton  during  fortyeight  long,  weary 
hours  for  a  boat  bound  up  the  Illinois  river  — 
many  had  passed  bound  up  the  Mississippi 
and  Missouri  rivers — when  at  last,  late  in  the- 
6 


^62  ^COMFORT    ON    BOARD 

evening,  just  as  I  was  about  to  abandon  my 
post  of  watching  for  the  night,  the  Ashley 
made  her  appearance,  crowded  with  passen- 
gers, and  loaded  to  the  guards  with  freight. 
Several  passengers  were  waiting,  like  myself, 
and  the  appearance  presented  on  going  aboard, 
was  poorly  calculated  to  give  us  any  idea  of 
comfort.  We  learned  of  course,  that  all  the 
berths  were  long  since  taken  vup,  and  that  we 
must  take  our  chance  with  some  sixty  others 
at  rough-and-tumble  on  the  cabin  floor.  By 
a  little  management,  and  a  bribe  of  a  quarter- 
dollar  to  the  steward  -—an  important  person- 
age in  such  a  case,  and  whose  good  will,  once 
secured,  well  repays  the  cost —  I  obtained  a 
snug  corner,  where  with  my  saddle-bags  for  a 
.pillow,  I  passed  a  tolerable  night. 
,  Previous  to  retiring,  we  -were  serenaded 
with  several  songs,  by  some  three  or  four  ex- 
cellent voices.  The  effect  of  music  in  such 
a  place  and  at  such  a  time  on  the  mind  of  one 
alive  to  the  sweet  influences  of  concordant 
sounds  is  indescribable.  As  I  sat  on  the  rail 
of  the  guard,  and  heard  the  sparkling  and 
troubled  water  rushing  beneath  me,  and  casi 


A  STEAM-  PACKET;  63- 

my  eyes  upon  the  fairy  and  delusive  specta- 
cles of  the  lime^rock  bluffs —  elsewhere  de- 
scribed in  these  letters  —  and  listened  to  the 
old  and  familiar  melodies,  my  heart  melted 
within  mey  and  all  the  harsh  and  jangling  dis- 
cordancy of  life,  seemed  turned  to  harmony 
and  peace. 

"  There's  no  place  like  HOME  !  " 

How  did  that  truism,  repeated  for  the  mil- 
lionth  time,  thrill  through  and  through  me, 
swelling  and  sounding  in  my  inner  earr long 
after  those  vocal  chords  had  died  upon  the 
waters,  and  no  sound  assailed  the  outward 
ear,  save  the  clanking  of  the  laboring  engine, 
and  heavy  breathings  of  the  sleepers  around 
me  ! 

At  all  the  landings  along  the  river,  we  put 
out  freight  or  passengers,  so  that  we  were 
able  to  secure  a  comfortable  berth  for  our 
second  night  and  last  on  board  the  Ashley. 
At  Naples  and  Meridosia  we  witnessed  busy 
preparations  for  the  construction  of  a  railroad 
from  each  of  these  places  across  the  country 
east  to  the  Wabash.  Large  piles  of  lumber 
and  rails  lay  upon  the  ground,  the  latter  just. 


^64  DEBARCATION    OF    AN 

discharged  from  a  New  Orleans  boat.  Naples 
is  qqite  pleasantly  situated,  and  must  become 
a  place  of  considerable  importance  from  its 
proximity  to  Jacksonville  and  Springfield,  the 
latter  of  which  is  to  be  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment in  184©.  I  was  much  amused  while 
watching  the  landing  of  a  party  of  our  passen- 
gers, immigrants  from  North  Carolina.  It 
consisted  of  two  families,  with  every  appur- 
tenance of  necessity  and  comfort.  They  were 
bound  to  a  tract  they  had  recently  purchased 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Jacksonville.  They 
were  two  noble,  spirited  bays,  one  of  which 
fell  overboard  in  landing  him,  and  which  could 
only  be  accomplished  by  backing  him  over  the 
planks.  Then  there  were  a  neat  barouche,  a 
buggy,  a  light  wagon,  and  four  farm  wagons  ; 
•each  for  two  horses.  Besides,  there  was  a 
full  compliment  of  "  household  stuff,"  among 
which  I  discovered  a  piano.  Add  to  this,  a 
year's  stock  of  groceries,  and  other  nicnacs 
of  luxury,  and  a  very  vivid  idea  of  comfort  in 
their  wilderness  home  was  presented  to  one's 
mind.  They  appeared  to  be  in  high  spirits, 
and  an  air  of  genteel  breeding  and  intelligence 


IMMIGRATING    FAMILY.  6£ 

gave  the  impression  that  the  true  otium  cum 
dignitate  was  in  store  for  these  fortunate  emi- 
grants in  this  land  of  milk  and  honey  —  of  fair 
skies  and  a  balmy  atmosphere.  Our  boat  was 
speedily  under  way  again,  and  as  we  passed 
our  departed  companions,  we  waved  them  a 
merry  adieu,  and  wishing  them  all  manner  of 
happiness  in  their  new  home,  we  proceeded 
on  our  voyage. 

We  reached  Peoria  at  daybreak,  and  were- 
roused  from  our  unquiet  slumbers  to  go  on 
shore.  Here  I  left  our  thronged  boat,  which* 
immediately  proceeded  on  her  way  up  the 
river  to  Peru  and  Hennipin,  above  which  no 
boats  run  in  the  lower  stages  of  the  water. 
As  I  design  to  speak  of  towns  in  another  chap- 
ter, I  shall  defer  what  I  have  to  say  of  Peoria 
until  then. 

I  believe  I  have  elsewhere  remarked,  that 
nature  seems  to  have  been  exceedingly  lavish 
of  her  provisions  for  the  comfort  of  man  on 
this  portion  of  the  world.  Certainly  thea 
orginal  curse  seems  to  have  fallen  here  more 
lightly  than  upon  any  other  portion  of  our 
earth  I  have  seen  or  read  of.  There  is  here? 


6'6  A    WISE    fRO VISION 

in  unequall  d  proportions,  the  richest  variety 
of  local  inducements  to  the  busy  and  restless 
spirit  of  man  to  plant  himself  and  be  at  home. 
No  richer  soil,  no  blander  climate,  no  greater 
variety  of  beautiful  landscape,  no  more  ex- 
haustless  mines  of  wealth  and  com  fort  beneath 
the  soil,  does  any  section  ot  the  same  extent 
in  the  wide  world  afford.  But  all  has  not 
struck  me  more  than  the  provision  and  fore- 
sight of  nature  in  respect  to  this,  the  El 
Dorado  of  her  demesnes.  In  all  my  course 
up  the  rivers  of  this  country,  I  have  admired 
the  providing  care  of  the  great  Creator,  in  the 
apparent  evils  which  every  immigrant  has 
noticed.  How  often  have  I  heard  the  remark 
of  the  traveller  as  he  gazed  upon  the  rank 
herbage  of  the  rich  bottoms,  through  which 
these  mighty  rivers  sweep  their  resistless 
courses,  *'  What  a  pity  it  is  that  these  regions 
are!  so  uninhabitable  ;  that  there  is  so  much 
disease  and  death  in  these  fertile  bottoms." 
And  such  is  the  impression  any  one  would  re- 
ceive who  makes  his  way  through  the  west 
only  by  her  river  courses.  But  Jet  him  re- 
flect that  were  all  the  borders  of  these  rivers 


OF  NATURE:.  67 

healthy  and  habitable  now,  Jong  ere  this  had 
they  been  occupied  with  that  busy,  intelligent, 
migrating  race,  who,  for  this  reason,  have 
been  compelled  to  settle  themselves  abroad 
over  these  beautiful  prairies  and  woodlands, 
and  resort  to  measures  from  which  are  to 
spring,  not  Only  the  wealth  and  physical  power 
of  this  vast  creation,  but  the  moral  impulses 
which  are  to  guide  her  republican  councils  ; 
to  give  vigor  to  her  noble  schemes  of  internal 
improvement ;  character  to  her  generous 
educational  provisions,  and  a  higher  and 
purer  tone  to  her  social  and  moral  relations. 
Instead  of  a  thread  of  civilization  and  im~ 
provement  —  doubtful  in  its  moral  tendencies? 
and  depraved  in  its  physical  elements- —  seen 
here  and  there  upon  the  mighty  arteries  of 
this  vast  body  of  life  and  light,  we  have  the 
beautiful,  moral  picture  of  a  vast  multitude  of 
sober,  industrious,  primitive  husbandmen, 
scattered  over  the  interior,  pursuing,  their 
simple  but  profitable  occupations,  with  far  less 
temptation  to  sin  and  inducement  to  idleness. 
It  is  here,  if  any  where,  the  moral  impulse 
must  be  awakened  and  strengthened,  and  that 


$8  THE    WEST    DESTINED 

too,  before  the  soft  luxuries  of  a  prosperous 
commercial  community  shall  disseminate  their 
unnerving  and  licentious  influences.  Born  and 
reared  in  these  secluded  homes  of  industry, 
economy  and  morality,  the  men  who  are  des- 
tined to  assume  the  control  of  the  coming  and 
eventful  tide  of  affairs  will  grow  hardy  in  in- 
tegrity, and  bring  to  their  important  duties  a 
moral  sense  of  right,  which  will  augur  well  to 
the  destinies  of  this  great  nation  —  especially 
to  that  portion  of  it  which  embraces  these 
mighty  and  almost  boundless  savannahs. 

In  due  time,  the  indomitable  force  of  mint! 
will  conquer  all  the  difficulties  which  now 
prevent  the  river  settlements,  and  then  we 
shall  see  a  busy  and  hardy  race  swarming  the 
borders  of  our  streams,  and  sustained  by  the 
densely  peopled  back  country,  from  which 
streams  of  life  and  wealth  will  pour  through 
the  whole  extent  of  our  country.  For  it  is 
no  idle  dream,  but  the  basis  of  a  tangible 
reality,  which  holds  forth  this  promise.  Our 
country  can  never  become  so  densely  peo- 
pled, but  that,  xvith  suitable  culture,  Illinois, 
with  as  large  a  tract  of  country  on  the  oppo- 


TO    GREATNESS^  69* 

site  side  of  the  Mississippi,  can  fully  .meet 
every  demand  made  upon  her  granaries,  pro- 
vided agriculture  were  to  be  neglected  every 
where  else  in  our  borders.  But  as  I  intend 
to  enlarge  upon,  this  idea  in  another  place,  I 
shall  for  the  present  pass  it  over. 

There  can  be  no  doubj;  but  the  diseases 
peculiar  ta  these  bottom  lands  owe  their  origin 
to  something  else  than,  their  proximity  to  the 
rivers,  because  there  are  spots  on  these  very 
streams,  not  excelled  for  their  healthful  influ- 
ences in  the  world.  The  unhealthiness  of 
these  portions  of  country  arises  from  the 
decay  of  a  superabundant  vegetable  growth. 
But  when  the  foot  of  improvement  shall  have 
planted  itself  there  firmly,  having  expelled  the 
cause  step  by  step  as  it  approached,  this  evil 
will  be  overcome  and  a  location  on  the  banks 
of  the  Illinois  or  any  of  the  western  rivers, 
will  be  as  healthy  and  safe  as  one  among  the 
annually  shorn  meadows  of  the  beautiful  Con- 
necticut. Why  not  ?  Nothing  can  exceed 
the  clearness  and  salubrity  of  the  atmosphere 
on  these  rivers  ;  stirred,  as  it  is,  through  the 
vMve-long  spring  and  summer,  by  the  never- 


770  "IMPROVEMENTS. 

failing  morning  breeze,  and  purified  by  an 
almost  unfailing  evening  thunder-shower,  suc- 
ceeding each  other  with  nearly  the  same  reg- 
ularity that  day  succeeds  to  night. 

Nor  is  the  ^period  spoken  of  «o  remote  as 
>may  at  first  be  imagined.  A  stranger,  OM 
going  through  the  interior  of  this  state,  is 
.struck,  less  with  the  natural  wonders,  which 
arrest  his  course  at  every  step,  than  by  the 
amount  of  country  already  occupied  by  flour- 
ishing residents.  Go  where  he  will,  he  can 
scarcely  get  out  of  sight  of  "  improvements" 
—  as  they  are  technically  called  in  the  west 
—  or  the  sound  of  new  ones  going  on.  Not 
only  are  the  borders  of  the  "  timber"  dotted 
with  farms,  but  busy  villages,  and  other  farms 
are  springing  up  in  the  very  heart  of  the  prai- 
ries, where  not^  tree  or  shrub,  or  even  spring 
••of  water  tempts  the  emigrant  in  his  weary 
journey  to  encamp  for  a  single  night.  And 
when  we  reflect  that  all  this  has  been  accom- 
plished by  the  "  magic  of  enterprise,"  and 
nearly  all  within  a  half  dozen  years,  who  shall 
say  he  shall  not  live  to  witness  the  fulfilment 
of  the  prophecy  and  gaze  with  his  own  eyes 
on  the  "  Munchausen  Vision, ".realized. 


T  RE  31  ON  T. 


CHAPTER   VII. 

Tremont— Respect  paid  to  the  Sabbath — Temperance*— 
Fourth  of  July — Stump  Speeches- — Barbacue  in  Missouri* 
— False  notions  of  Western  Morality — Travellers — Ac- 
quaintance with  the  people  affords  a  solution  to  enigmatical  < 
appearances— Apology  for  personal  electioneering. 

I  REACHED  Tremont,  Wednesday  morning!) 
before  breakfast— -  having  taken  the  stage  for 
that  purpose  at  Peoria — -the  10th  of  June, 
and  became  immediately  domiciliated  in  the 
"Taze well  Hotel,"  kept — -and  for  a  western 
tavern,  remarkably  well  kept — by  Capt.  H. 
B*  Sampson,  a  native  of  Duxbury,  Mass., 
and  for  years  a  shipmaster  from  that  portal 
I  found  several  acquaintances  here,  by  whom 
I  was  soon  made  acquainted  with  nearly  the 
whole  population  of  this  social  corporation.^ 

Tremont,  is  the  shire  town  for  TazewelTi 
county,  and  is  situated  in  a  delightful  prairie, 
bounded  on  the  east  and  south  by  a  large  belt 
of  forest,  on  the  Mackinau  creek,  and  on  the 
north  and  west,  by  another  on  Dillon's  creek, 
and.  called.  "  Pleasant  Grove."  The  "  tim- 


72  TRETMONT. 


foer  "  —  as  all  forests  are  here  called  —  is  dis- 
tant from   the  village,  from  one  and  a  half  to 
three  miles,   end   is  plainly  visible  on  every 
hand   from  the    point   at   which    I    am   now 
writing.     Tremont  is  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Illinois  river,  and  distant  in  a  direct  line  about 
seven  or  eight  miles.     Pekin,  nine  miles  dis- 
tant, is  the  landing  place  for  all  merchandise 
coming   up   the  river  and  destined  for  this 
place.      Tremont   is  "beautifully  laid   off  in 
squares,  with  streets  of  an  hundred   feet  in 
width,  running  at  right  angles  with  each  other 
—  parallel  to  the  sectional  lines  'by  which  the 
whole  state  is  divided  into  townships  and  sec- 
tions.    In  the  centre  of  the  town  ten  acres  are 
thrown  into  a  public   square,   with  a  broad 
street  passing  through  its  centre  each  way, 
cutting  it  into  four  equal  sections.     These  are 
intended  to  be  enclosed  with  a  neat,  white 
paling,  which  will  no  doubt  be  accomplished 
whenever  the  times  improve.     With  a  real 
public  spirit  which   has   marked  nearly  all  the 
actions  of  this  intelligent  colony,   they  have 
planted  ornamental  trees   along   the  lines  of 
these  squares,  which  already  beautify,  and  will 


TREMONT.  73 

one  day  be  a  great  ornament  to  the  place. 
On  all  sides  of  this  area,  but  chiefly  on  the 
western  and  northern  sides,  the  dwellings, 
stores,  offices,  and  workshops  are  scattered, 
giving  the  town  an  extended  aspect  entirely 
unlike  anything  at  the  east.  The  buildings 
are  frame,  and  generally  painted  white,  which 
gives  an  exceedingly  neat  and  pleasant  aspect, 
as  contrasted  with  the  deep  and  brilliant  green 
of  the  prairie  which  embosoms  it. 

The  character  of  the  place  is  New  Eng- 
land, there  being  three  quarters  of  the  popu- 
lation from  that  section  of  our  country.  There 
are  besides  a  very  intelligent  class  of  citizens 
from  New  York,  Kentucky,  and  other  places 
in  the  Union,  whose  sectional  feelings  are  all 
merged  in  the  general  interest.  Indeed  I 
have  rarely  ever  witnessed  less  of  this  power- 
ful influence  than  appears  in  this  village.  For 
a  high  moral  tone  of  feeling,  temperance, 
good  order,  industry,  public  spirit  and  real 
intelligence,  I  believe  Tremont  not  to  be 
surpassed  in  the  whole  west,  and  rarely  equal- 
led in  our  country  towns  at  the  east.  A  brisk 
business  is  here  driven  with  the  neighboring 
7 


74  THE    SABBATH. 

farmers,  who  have  "located"  themselves  all 
along  the  line  of  the  prairie  in  the  edge  of  the 
u  timber."  One  of  the  most  pleasing  features 
of  this  place  is  the  respect  paid  by  its  inhabi- 
tants to  sabbath  institutions.  There  is  yet  no 
church  in  the  place  —  measures  are  on  foot 
by  the  Unitarian  parish  for  the  erection  of  one 
the  ensuing  winter  —  but  there  is  a  very  con- 
venient schoolhouse  which  the  various  de- 
nominations occupy  alternately  on  the  Sab- 
bath ;  and  there  is  never  a  Sabbath  without 
some  religious  service.  The  Episcopalians 
are  fitting  up  a  room  which  they  will  occupy 
exclusively,  and  when  the  church  alluded  to 
shall  be  erected,  the  place  will  be  abundantly 
provided  with  places  for  public  worship. 
There  is  a  kind  and  generous  feeling  cherish- 
ed by  each  sect  to  all  the  others,  which  would 
do  much  toward  destroying  any  intolerant  feel- 
ings, were  not  the  influence  of  the  clergy  — 
to  their  shame  be  it  written  —  used  to  draw 
closer  and  tighter  the  narrow  lines  of  secta- 
rianism. 

I  have  seen  no  place  of  its  size  in  the  west 
where  there  is  so  little  intemperance  as  in 


TEMPERANCE.  75 

Tremont.  There  is  a  respectable  temperance 
society  here,  and  it  has  been  my  pleasure  to 
be  present  at  two  of  their  meetings — which  are 
held  monthly  through  the  year — where  I  was 
edified  and  instructed  with  remarks  of  gentle- 
men appointed  to  address  us  on  those  occa- 
sions. A  "  celebration  of  Independence  " 
was  got  up  here  for  the  present  anniversary  of 
the  "  Declaration,"  by  the  young  men  of  the 
village — and  on  temperance  ground.  No  ar- 
dent spirits  or  wine  were  on  the  table  during 
dinner,  although  every  individual  was  permit- 
ted to  furnish  it,  after  the  cloth  was  removed,  at 
extra  expense.  It  was  a  very  cheering  sight 
to  witness  the  predominance  of  tumblers  over 
wine  glasses  on  the  table,  more  than  half  the 
company  toasting  in  pure  cold  water.  Nor 
did  I  perceive  any  lack  of  inspiration  or  want 
of  edge  in  the  toasts  manifested  in  the  water- 
drinkers.  Indeed  the  most  uproarious  man  at 
the  table  was  a  water-drinker  —  it  was  the 
generous  ebullition  of  a  happy  spirit.  Nor 
did  1  witness  a  single  instance  of  undue  excite- 
ment by  wine  in  one  of  the  company.  All 
was  orderly,  though  somewhat  noisy,  and 


76  FOURTH    OF    JULY* 

everything  passed  off  without  an  angry  wordj 
or  an  unkind  feeling.     The  dinner  was  pre- 
ceded by  the  usual   services.     The   oration 
was  a  very  respectable  performance,  and  the 
music  did  great  credit  to  the  young  men  of 
Tremont.     An  ode,  written  for  the  occasion 
by  a  resident  lady  —  a  very  clever  perform  - 
ance  —  was  sung  to  the  tune  of  the  "  Bonny 
Boat,"  with  great  spirit  and  taste.     After  the 
regular   toasts,    many   voluntary   ones    were 
given.     Two,  alluding  to  the  delegation  from 
Tazewell  county,  in  general  assembly,  called 
up  two  candidates  who  were  present,  thus  re- 
solving  the   civic  assemblage   to  a  political 
caucus  —  into  which,  however,  it  must  in  jus- 
tice be  said,  that  no  party  politics  were  per- 
mitted to  enter.     It  was  the  first  opportunity 
I  had  been  afforded  of  listening  to  a  "  stump 
oration,"  and  I  was  not  sorry  for  the  change. 
There  was  something  in  the  frank  naivette  of 
the  first  speaker,   a  plain  Kentucky  farmer, 
'  which  pleased  me,  and  a  straightforwardness 
in  his  homely  u  speech,"  which  showed  the 
honest  and  skilful  politician.     He   was  suc- 
ceeded by  a  physician,  who,  although  he  did 


STUMP    SPEECHES.  77 

well,  did  no  better  than  his  unread  prede- 
cessor. It  strikes  a  New  Englander  oddly 
enough  to  hear  a  man  talk  as  familiarly  of  his 
political  plans  and  purposes,  of  what  he  has 
done,  and  can  do,  and  will  do,  "if  he  be 
elected,"  and  of  his  entire  devotion  to  the  in- 
terests of  those  he  addresses,  as  if  he  were  in 
his  own  castle.  Our  spouters  were  repeat- 
edly interrupted  with  shouts  of  applause,  and 
calls  from  individuals  among  the  throng  for  an 
expression  of  opinion  on  some  political  ques- 
tion. It  is  considered  the  privilege  of  any  of 
his  constituents,  while  in  this  attitude,  to  de- 
mand of  the  electioneering  candidate,  his 
opinion  on  any  question  which  may  agitate  the 
community  ;  and  he  feels  bound  to  give  it. 
It  is  the  custom  in  many  parts  of  the  west  to 
appoint  a  pkce  and  time  when  the  opposing 
candidates  lor  office  may  be  heard  by  all  the 
inhabitants  of  that  section,  on  the  questions  of 
policy  pertaining  to  their  duties.  It  is  not 
uncommon,  on  such  occasions,  to  assemble 
the  whole  county  or  precinct :  to  roast  a 
whole  ox,  and  to  provide  every  luxury  the 
season  can  afford.  A  friend  of  mine,  who  re- 
7* 


78 


cently  attended  one  of  these  barbacues  in 
souri,  gave  me  an  interesting  account  thereof^ 
which  I  will  briefly  transfer  to  these  pages,  as 
a  piece  of  information,  and  as  affording  an  op-' 
portunity  to  make  some  remarks  on  the  moral 
aspect  which  the  custom  presents. 

The  barbacue  was  served  in  the  edge  of  a 
most  beautiful  "timber"  —  I  like  this  western 
word  —  on  the  margin  of  a  clear,  rapid  creek* 
On  a  level  spot  near  the  creek,  was  a  table 
and  seats  for  the  politicians.  Here  the  candi- 
dates addressed  the  people,  answering  each 
other,  and  defending  themselves  as  best  they 
were  able.  The  audience  meanwhile  huddled 
closely  round  the  speakers,  cheering  and  put- 
ting questions  and  encouraging  their  candidates 
by  the  most  familiar  expressions  :  —  "  Good," 
"  right  ;J?  "  go  it,  colonel  ;"  u  giy£  it  to  'em 
John,"  "  hurra,"  etc.  etc.  At  a  little  dis- 
tance above,  and  just  beneath  the  overhanging 
grove,  a  level  spot  had  been  selected  ior  the 
dancers.  The  grass  and  inequalities  removed, 
the  whole  space  strewed  with  saw-dust,  and 
constantly  occupied  by  men,  women  and  chil- 
dren, to  the  music  of  a  discordant  fiddle,  most 


NOTIONS.  t 

discordantly  sawed.  Here  were  the  wives 
and  daughters  of  the  candidates,  ready  to  give 
their  hand  to  any  of  the  "  dear  people, "  who 
should  solicit  it  for  a  contra-dance  or  a  waltz. 

Higher  up  in  the  grove  were  the  "  booths," 
places  where  liquors  of  all  kinds  were  freely 
distributed,  and  all  kinds  of  gambling  going 
forward,  the  whole  presenting  a  scene  of  ani- 
mation, bustle,  noise  and  clamor,  such  as  no- 
thing but  a  western  barbacue  could  parallel. 

All  this  strikes  a  stranger,  arid  especially 
one  from  New  England,  as  not  only  peculiar 
but  full  of  all  moral  evil,  and  leads  to  the  hasty- 
conclusion  that  the  purity,  not  only  of  elec- 
tions but  of  personal  virtue,  must  be  sadly 
affected  thereby.  And  I  feel  that  I  should  be 
doing  the  moral  sense  of  this  community  great 
violence,  were  I  to  present  the  picture  I  have 
above  drawn,  to  my  eastern  readers,  without 
giving  the  impressions  eye-witnessing  and  ac- 
quaintance with  the  actors  therein,  have  made 
upon  my  own  mind.  Well  do  I  know  that  a 
very  vague  and  utterly  false  estimate  of  the 
morality  as  well  as  the  literature  of  the  west 
is  held  by  the  majority  of  the  people  at  the 


80  HASTY  CONCLUSIONS, 

east,  and  I  feel  it  my  duty  for  one  to  do  my 
part  towards  disabusing  them  thereof.  No 
eastern  man  of  reflective  mind  can  spend  a 
few  weeks  even,  in  society  here,  and  not  un- 
dergo a  thorough  change  in  the  estimate 
brought  by  him  from  his  home.  As  most  of 
our  travellers  have  done,  whose  "impressions" 
have  been  received  at  the  east  as  current  ac- 
counts, a  man  may  pass  through  the  west  in 
her  steamboats  and  stages,  stopping  only  at 
the  hotels  of  her  thoroughfares,  and  know  ab- 
solutely nothing  of  the  internal  structure  of 
society,  or  the  character  of  those  who  make  it. 
No  man  can  judge  rightly  of  a  place  or  a 
ceremony  peculiar  to  it  with  the  dust  of  travel 
on  him.  Fatigued,  disgusted  with  the  deten- 
tions of  unavoidable  delays,  and  provoked 
with  bad  accommodations  in  crowded  hotels, 
he  looks  on  everything  around  him  and  com- 
pares it  all  to  the  quiet  and  order  and  thrift  of 
his  tidy  home  —  his  comparisons  are  necessa- 
rily against  the  scenes  of  their  origin.  Besides 
in  this  way  most  of  the  bad,  little  of  the  good, 
falls  under  his  observation.  But  let  him  plunge 
aside  from  the  great  thorughfare  and  rest 


EXCRESCENCES.  81 

himself  in  the  secluded  scenes  where  alone 
national  or  sectional  character  is  to  be  truly 
studied,  and  he  will  speedily  find  occasion  to 
change  the  whole  opinion  he  may  have  thus 
prematurely  formed.  Here  he  will  find  an 
apology  for  much  that  was  shocking,  and  a 
solution  to  that  which  was  before  enigmatical. 
And  here  he  will  find  the  explanation  of 
these  public  exhibitions,  spoken  of  above,  and 
which  I  propose  to  consider  in  this  con- 
nection. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  but  that  these  poli- 
tical gatherings  are  productive  of  much  evil 
in  the  gross,  but  it  must  be  remembered  that 
that  which  strikes  us  as  the  most  prominent 
evil  attending  them,  is  not  and  cannot  be  con- 
sidered as  attached  —  part  or  parcel  —  to  the 
political  institutions  of  the  west.  Gamblers 
and  blacklegs  and  bullies  there  are  every- 
where, and  they  are  ever  on  the  alert  for  a 
gathering  —  no  matter  whether  it  be  a  horse- 
race at  the  south,  a  barbacue  at  the  west,  or 
a  militia-muster  or  a  camp-meeting,  at  the  east. 
Gambling  and  dissipation  are  not  the  results, 
they  are  but  excrescences  which  attach  them- 


82  MEANS    OF    CONVEYING 

selves  to  any  large  body  from  which  they  can 
most  readily  draw  their  nutriment :  and  they 
ought  no  more  to  be  called  the  legitimate 
offspring  of  a  political  caucus  here,  than  of  a 
camp-meeting  in  New  England.  Each  is  the 
occasion,  merely,  of  the  evil,  and  ought  no 
more  to  be  denounced  therefor,  than  the 
establishment  of  an  extensive,  commercial 
city  for  the  licentiousness  which  it  is  the  oc- 
casion of  concentrating  within  its  walls. 

With  this  premission,  the  first  consideration 
that  presents  itself  to  one's  mind  is,  that  this 
custom  originated  in  necessity,  and  the  cir- 
cumstances of  that  necessity  are  not  sufficient- 
ly obviated  to  permit  a  different  course. 

It  is  but  recently  that  the  means  of  circu- 
lating intelligence  have  become  anything  like 
adequate  to  the  necessities  of  the  people 
in  the  west.  Presses  were  few  and  far 
between,  and  except  through  the  thorough- 
fares, there  was  scarcely  a  post-route  any- 
where throughout  this  vast  region.  The  peo- 
ple were  sparsely  scattered  over  a  wide  extent 
of  untravelled  territory,  and  had  no  other 
means  of  obtaining  information  of  what  was 


INTELLIGENCE  AT  THE  WEST.  83 

going  on  beyond  their  peaceful  hamlets  than 
by  gathering  together  at  some  point  —  gener- 
ally a  distant  post-office  —  and  there  impart  to 
and  glean  from  each  other  their  scanty  stock 
of  intelligence.  Such  meetings  naturally 
enough  suggested  the  political  gatherings  now 
considered,  as  the  only  way  by  which  the 
people  could  be  informed  of  what  was  going 
on  in  the  country,  and  what  were  the  political 
views  of  those  who  asked  for  office  at  their 
hands.  And  this  necessity,  in  many  places 
at  the  west,  is  yet  far  from  being  obviated. 
It  ought  not  to  be  forgotten  that  there  is  a 
vast  difference  between  the  east  and  the  west 
in  the  means  of  conveying  and  circulating  in- 
telligence. While  it  requires  but  two  or  three 
days  to  circulate  information  through  the 
whole  length  and  breadth  of  New  England, 
almost  as  many  months  are  here  necessary, 
and  then  many  and  many  a  settler  on  his  coun- 
try's frontier,  as  deeply  interested  as  the  mer- 
chant who  pores  over  his  pile  of  daily  papers 
in  his  country's  weal  or  woe,  has  no  mode  of 
informing  himself  but  by  mounting  his  horse 
and  riding  ten,  twenty,  and  even  fifty  miles  to 


84  STUMP    SPEAKING. 

a  post-office  or  a  political  gathering  :  and  this 
not  as  many  times  in  a  year  as  the  merchant  in 
one  single  week.  When  this  country  shall 
have  become  as  densely  peopled  as  Pennsyl- 
vania or  Massachusetts,  and  her  facilities  for 
disseminating  information  as  great,  this  custom 
may  be  abolished. 

But  that  this  abolition  is  necessary  or  desir- 
able, I  am  by  no  means   persuaded  :  that  the 
custom  may  be  reformed,  and  its  evil  excres- 
cences removed  with  advantage  there  is  no 
doubt  —  nor  is  there  any  more  room  for  doubt 
that  in  due  time  this  wholesome  exorcism  will 
be  effected.     But  it  seems  to  me  to  be  ex- 
ceedingly  proper   that  candidates  for   office 
should  be  permitted  to  speak  for  themselves. 
Assailed  as  they  are  sure  to  be  on  every  hand 
with  abuse,  vilification  and  misrepresentation, 
there  seems  to  be  a  fitness  in  appealing  direct- 
ly to  the  understandings  and  hearts  of  those 
whose  interests  are  confided  to  their  hands. 
Here  they  can  meet  their  accusers  face  to 
face,  and  forever  silence,  by  a  frank  avowal  of 
their  views  and  intended  course  of  conduct, 
the  cabal  which  their  opponents  have  raised. 


BALL-ROOMS    AND    BARBACUES.  85 

Be  it  remembered  that  these  gatherings  are 
composed  of  men  of  all  political  creeds,  who, 
with  their  respective  candidates  have  come  up 
hither  to  try  their  strength  in  fair  expository, 
argumentative  combat.  It  does  seem  to  me 
that  the  "  dear  people  "  would  be  far  more 
likely  to  come  at  truth  and  think  for  them- 
selves by  thus  hearing  both  sides  of  the  ques- 
tion than,  as  with  us,  by  poring  exclusively 
over  a  print  devoted  to  but  one  interest,  and 
that  there  would  be  far  less  danger  that  men 
would  prevail  over  principles.  And  this  is  a 
second  consideration  worthy  reflection  in  this 
connection.— T  have  but  one  more  reflection 
to  throw  out  on  this  topic.  It  is  this.  The 
licentious  aspect  of  these  assemblies  has  no 
foundation  in  -  reality.  The  promiscuous  as- 
sembling of  men  and  women  is  never  the  ne- 
cessary cause  of  licentiousness.  And  there 
is  no  more  danger  in  these  meetings  than  in 
any  other  meeting  composed  of  the  sexes  for 
any  convivial  purpose.  Custom  sanctions 
promiscuous  assemblies  at  the  east  in  the  ball- 
room, and  the  drawing-room,  and  the  lyceum, 
and  other  places  of  public  resort,  and  no 
8 


86  APOLOGY    FOR 

thought  of  evil  attaches  to  them.  In  like  man- 
ner a  barbacue  is  sanctioned  by  custom  in  the 
west,  and  every  lady  who  attends  them  passes 
without  reproach  or  suspicion  :  and  the  slight- 
est insult  offered  to  her  would  be  resented  and 
punished  on  the  spot.  That  they  are  entirely 
free  from  danger,  no  one  supposes  ;  but  so 
neither  are  any  assemblages  of  the  kind,  and 
the  same  objections  lie  against  all  alike.  A 
stranger  sees  with  foreign  eyes,  and  many 
things  which  appear  monstrous,  lose  all  their 
shocking  aspects  by  familiarity. 

And  on  the  whole,  I  am  led  to  think  that 
the  general  principles  involved  in  these  politi- 
cal caucuses  are  sound  and  may  be  safely 
adopted  in  all  parts  of  our  country.  They 
have  already  undergone  essential  changes,  and 
the  advanced  state  of  refinement  which  is  rap- 
idly approaching  will  so  modify  them  that 
most  of  what  is  objectionable  will  be  removed. 
They  will  then  become  what  they  now  profess 
to  be,  merely  meetings  for  political  purpo- 
ses. And  what  better  opportunity  could  be 
afforded  for  a  fair  discussion  of  any  great 
national  or  sectional  question  ?  What  better 


PERSONAL    ELECTIONEERING.  87 

Calculated  to  act  as  a  moral  check  upon  the 
icentiousness  of  a  party  press  ?  What  fairer 
chance  for  the  people  to  arrive  at  the  real 
political  views  of  the  men  who  claim  their 
suffrages,  and  to  ascertain  the  opinions  and 
doings  of  those  of  opposite  opinions  ? 


88  FACE    OF    THE    COUNTRY. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

Face  of  the  country  unique — Unlike  New  England— Level 
but  not  flat— Oak  Openings  and  Timber— Bluffs — Prairies 
— Climate — Unusual  proportion  of  fair  days — Diseases. 

TREMONT,  ILLINOIS,  JULY  1,  1838. 

MUCH  has  been  said  and  written  about  the 
face  of  country,  climate,  soil,  etc.,  of  Illinois, 
but  after  all,  no  true  impression  has  been 
conveyed  to  eastern  people  thereof.  For  my 
own  part,  I  found  myself  quite  at  fault, 
although  I  had  taken  especial  pains  to  inform 
myself  both  by  reading  arid  conversation  with 
those  who  were  well  acquainted  therewith. 
And  I  believe  it  utterly  beyond  any  one's 
power  to  give  any  description  of  the  face  of 
the  country,  which  shall  convey  anything  like 
an  adequate  idea  to  a  stranger.  It  is  perfectly 
unique — totally  unlike,  in  general  and  in  detail, 
anything  in  New  England.  It  is  called  a  level, 
flat  country,  and  it  is,  compared  to  the  eastern 
states,  but  not  as  level  as  it  has  been 
described.  Its  prairies,  in  particular,  have 
been  represented  as  exceedingly  flat  and  even. 


UNLIKE    NEW    ENGLAND.  89 

and  we  have  supposed  an  area  of  from  ten  to 
fifteen  or  thirty  miles  of  an  unbroken  plain, 
with  no  elevations  or  depressions,  more  than 
are  met  with  on  our  extensive  salt  marshes. 
But  the  country  is  all  unequal — not  precipi- 
tous— and  the  prairies  present  a  continual 
change  of  tables  and  sloughs,  while  the  "  tim- 
bers are  broken  by  high  knolls  and  deep 
ravines.  Besides,  I  had  supposed  that  the 
tables  in  the  rolling  prairies  all  ran  in  parallel 
lines  and  equal  distances  from  each  other, 
whereas  they  are  of  all  sizes  and  shapes,  and 
lay  in  every  direction  in  the  same  prairie, 
thereby  affording  a  greater  variety,  and  greater 
facilities  for  cultivation,  etc.  etc.  The  timber 
on  the  a  bottoms,"  is  dense  and  heavy,  and 
tangled  with  a  most  luxuriant  growth  of  vines, 
shrubs,  briars  and  rank  grass.  These  bot- 
toms are  on  all  the  rivers  and  creeks,  skirting 
the  prairies  and  making  beautiful  belts  running 
in  every  direction  through  the  country.  Be- 
sides these,  there  are  the  "  barrens,"  or  "  oak 
openings,"  as  they  are  called,  which  are 
composed  of  large  trees  of  the  various  kinds 
of  oak,  hickory,  maple,  elm,  etc.  These  trees 
8* 


90  OAK    OPENINGS. 

are  quite  sparsely  scattered  around,  making  a 
most  beautiful  park,  entirely  free  from  under- 
brush, and  the  ground  is  covered  with  aluxuriant 
growth  of  grass  and  flowers.  The  openings 
are  all  on  unequal — nay,  broken  ground — high 
abrupt  hills  and  gentle  swells,  alternated  by 
deep  precipitous  ravines  or  most  picturesque 
valleys  of  perfectly  easy  access  even  with  a 
carriage.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of 
these  unique  forests — rno  art  or  man's  device 
could  have  accomplished  on  so  grand  a  scale 
a  work  so  perfectly  splendid  and  enchanting. 
The  soil  of  these  barrens  is  a  fine  silicious 
loam  and  notjnore  than  from  eight  inches  to 
eighteen  in  depth,  but  rich,  and  well  adapted 
to  produce  the  lighter  grains  and  corn,  with  a 
careful  culture.  The  secret  of  the  openings 
lies  in  the  annual  conflagrations  which  pass 
over  all  the  prairies  and  barrens  of  the  west. 
This  yearly  burning  consumes  all  the  new 
trees  and  shrubs,  and  leaves  the  ground  en- 
tirely unencumbered.  The  old  trees,  likewise, 
are  annually  diminishing  in  number.  Scarcely 
a  tree  but  is  marked  with  fire,  and  when  once 
the  bark  is  penetrated  by  the  fire,  and  the 


BLUFFS.  91 

wood  of  the  tree  seared,  the  fire  takes  a 
readier  and  deeper  hold  thereon,  until  at  last 
it  overpowers  and  destroys  it,  and  the  tree 
falls  with  a  startling  crash,  and  generally  con- 
sumes before  the  fire  dies  out,  unless  a  violent 
rain  extinguishes  it,  and  leaves  it  for  food  for 
the  next  annual  passage  of  the  devouring  ele- 
ment. I  beheld  many  a  line  of  ashes,  mark- 
ing the  spot  where  the  entire  trunk  of  a  massy 
oak  was  consumed  the  previous  autumn. 

These  barrens  are  the  resort  of  birds  of 
various  note  and  plumage,  and  all  the  wild 
animals  found  in  this  country,  such  as  wolves, 
Jeer,  foxes,  rabbits,  etc.  etc. 

The  "  bluffs"  are  abrupt  elevations,  gene- 
rally in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of,  and 
are  to  be  found,  I  believe,  on  all  the  rivers 
and  on  each  side.  Generally  they  approach 
the  river,  but  upon  one  side  in  a  place,  while 
on  the  opposite  lie  the  heavy  timbered  bottom 
lands  from  a  mile  to  six  in  width.  In  the 
course  of  twenty,  sixty,  or  an  hundred  miles, 
the  bluffs  and  bottoms  change  sides — or,  to 
speak  more  accurately,  the  river  changes  to 
the  other  side  of  the  bottom,  which  is 


92  PRAIRIES. 

bounded  on  each  side  by  these  bluffs.  These 
bluffs  are  from  one  hundred  to  two  hundred 
feet  high,  intersected  with  deep  ravines  at 
right  angles  to  the  river,  and  are  composed  of 
limestone,  which  often  forms  bold  perpendic- 
ular cliffs  of  great  height  and  regularity.  The 
bluffs  are  generally  crowned  with  "  oak  open- 
ings," and  present  to  the  traveller  as  he 
passes  up  and  down  the  river,  a  most  pictu- 
resque and  charming  scene. 

And  what  shall  I  say  of  the  prairies — those 
immense  sea-fields,  clothed  with  their  heavy 
robe  of  green,  and  dotted  and  slashed  with 
gold  and  azure,  vermilion  and  orange,  white 
and  violet,  reflected  from  flowers  of  every 
size  and  shape,  bewildering  the  traveller  with 
their  intense  beauty,  their  rich  and  endless 
variety. 

The  prairies  are  of  two  kinds,  and  are  dis- 
tinguished as  rolling  and  flat.  The  rolling 
prairies  are  gently  and  irregularly  undulating, 
having  swells  of  twenty  to  sixty  feet  high,  and 
of  all  lengths  and  breadths  ;  between  which 
are  sloughs,  called  in  the  dialect  of  the  place 
usZoo5."  They  are  low  and  swampy,  and 


PRAIRIES.  93 

are  of  the  same  character  of  similar  places  in 
New  England  meadows  called  runs.  If  a 
small  ditch  be  carried  through  these  "s/oos," 
a  fine  running  stream  will  be  produced,  which 
will  last  nearly  or  quite  the  year  round,  afford- 
ing plenty  of  water  for  cattle.  There  is 
scarcely  a  prairie  without  this  kind  provision 
of  nature.  These  prairies  are  beautiful  to  the 
eye  of  a  stranger,  but  their  unbroken  monot- 
ony tires  the  senses,  especially  when  covered 
with  the  decayed  growth  of  the  former  sum- 
mer, clothed  with  a  garment  of  snow,  or 
blackened  by  the  recent  conflagration.  \  Ex- 
travagant stories  of  the  luxuriant  growth  of 
the  grass  have  been  circulated  at  the  east,  as 
indeed  everything  pertaining  to  this  wonderful 
country  has  naturally  enough  assumed  an 
exaggerated  tone.  In  the  bottom  prairies, 
the  grass  occasionally  reaches  the  top  of  a 
man's  head  as  he  sits  on  his  horse — a  rank 
coarse  grass  unfit  for  the  purposes  of  feeding 
— but  in  the  common  open  prairies  from  two 
to  three  and  a  half  feet  is  a  fair  averge  ;  in  the 
sloughs  it  often  exceeds  this  by  a  foot  or  even 
more. 


94  CLIMATE. 

These  prairies,  as  well  as  the  barrens  and 
bottoms,  afford  exhaustless  ranges  for  cattle, 
horses,  and  swine,  and  the  prairies  abundant 
grass  for  the  scythe,  all  without  cost  or  labor 
of  fencing.  The  prairie  grass  is  coarse,  but 
greatly  loved  by  cattle,  and  makes,  when  well 
cured,  an  excellent  fodder  for  the  winter. 

Climate* — Illinois  has  almost  every  variety 
of  climate,  embracing,  as  it  does,  in  its  extent, 
five  and  a  half  degrees  of  latitude.  In  the 
southern  portions  of  the  state,  the  climate  is 
exceedingly  mild,  and  favorable  to  the  pro- 
duction of  all  kinds  of  fruits  and  products 
which  delight  in  a  warmer  climate.  The 
winters  are  shorts,  and  the  frost  rarely  locks 
up  the  streams  for  more  than  a  fortnight  at  a 
time.  The  summers  are  hot  and  enervating, 
the  sun  being  exceedingly  powerful  and  op- 
pressive at  noon-day.  The  climate  of  middle 
Illinois  is  truly  delicious.  From  May  to 
Christmas  there  are  scarcely  any  frosts,  and 
the  hottest  days  of  summer  are  rendered  tol- 
erable by  a  never-failing  south-westerly  breeze, 
often  productive  of  showers,  which  cool  and 


WINDS.  95 

I 

purify  the  atmosphere.  One  of  the  most  de- 
lightful features  of  this  climate,  is  its  cool 
nights.  Though  the  mercury  may  range 
above  90  throughout  the  day,  it  may  sink  to 
60  before  morning,  and  often  lower.  This, 
of  course,  makes  it  exceedingly  necessary 
to  be  careful  of  exposures  in  the  night  air,  as 
such  sudden  changes  produce  tremendous 
dews,  which  prove  deleterious  to  health.  Of 
this  more  in  its  place.  In  the  northern  part 
of  the  state,  although  the  summers  and  au- 
tumns are  all  that  ever  poets  dreamed  of,  the 
winters  are  exceedingly  severe  ;  not  from  the 
amount  of  snow,  or  intensity  of  cold,  as  on 
account  of  the  prevailing,  piercing,  overpow- 
ering north  winds,  which  keep  up  an  almost 
perpetual  blast,  owing  to  the  open  state  of  the 
country.  These  north  and  north-westerly 
winds  prevail  from  December  to  March,  all 
over  the  state,  and  from  the  latter  month  to 
Christmas,  the  south  or  south-westerly  winds 
prevail.  These  latter  winds  are  dry  and 
exhilarating,  and  produce  an  agreeable  sensa- 
tion on  the  whole  frame.  One  striking  and 


96  PAIR  DAYS. 

delightful  peculiarity  of  this  climate  is,  the 
large  proportion  of  fair  over  stormy  days. 
Indeed  there  may  be  said  to  be  almost  no 
storms  during  the  summer  and  autumn.  Show- 
ers are  of  almost  daily  occurrence,  but  no 
storms.  I  have  seen  but  one  stormy  day  in 
twelve  weeks  prior  to  writing  this  article, 
near  the  middle  of  July.  Meteorological  ob- 
servations taken  by  a  celebrated  physician  in 
the  state  for  the  years  1834,  5,  6,  give  the 
following  proportion  of  fair  days  in  the  year, 
which  certainly  pronounce  this  land  a  bright 
and  sunny  one. 

Fair  d'tys.    Cloudy.    Rainy.      Snow. 

1834  246  74  42  3 

1835  250  67  43  5 

1836  229  78  48         10 
These  observations  were  made  in  Hancock 

county,  in  latitude  about  30°  40'  north,  and 
nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  state,  north  and  south. 
It  is  certainly  a  striking  proportion  of  sunny 
days, — and  it  cannot  be  wondered  at,  that  this 
should  be  called  a  mild  and  delightful  clime. 
Health,  Diseases,  etc. — With  regard  to  the 


HEALTH,    DISEASES,    fcTC.  97 

Health  of  Illinois,  I  am  on  the  whole  inclined 
to  believe  that  a  more  salubrious  climate  does 
not  exist  in  the  United  States.  On  the  river 
bottoms,  and  in  wet  places,  particularly  in  the 
lower  latitudes,  it  cannot  be  doubted  there  is 
much  unhealthiness  ;  but  in  the  higher  and 
drier  regions,  I  do  believe  there  is  far  less 
disease  and  death  thap  in  any  spot  in  New 
England.  And  besides,  in  the  most  sickly 
parts,  the  diseases  are  far  fewer  in  number, 
and  yield  to  a  proper  treatment  with  more 
certainty  than  at  the  east,  And  still  more, 
nine  tenths  of  the  disease  is  induced  by  care- 
Jess  exposures  which  at  the  east  would  pro- 
duce most  fatal  results.  Great  care  is  here 
necessary,  to  preserve  the  person  from  bilious 
attacks  and  fever  and  ague,  and  the  utmost 
promptitude  in  the  application  of  medical 
means,  but  those  means  rarely  fail  to  produce 
the  happiest  results  if  seasonably  applied. 
The  most  common  type  of  disease  is  bilious. 
Lung  fevers,  pleurisy,  influenza,  dysentaries, 
consumption,  and  almost  all  chronic  diseases, 
• — if,  indeed,  I  except  rheumatisms,  are  rare 


D8  HEALTH,  DISEASES,   ETC,       § 

here,  unless  they  have  been  inherited  or  con- 
tracted at  the  east.  In  my  chapter  containing 
hints  to  emigrants,  etc.  I  shall  give  some  di- 
rections with  regard  to  the  regimen  necessary 
for  unacclimated  persons  taking  up  their  abode 
in  Illinois.  In  what  I  have  here  said  I  have 
not  trusted  fully  my  own  judgment,  but  have 
consulted  several  skilful  physicians  on  the 
spot,  and  men  who  would  not  be  likely  to  de- 
ceive me  in  this  respect  ;  and  I  think  any  one 
at  all  acquainted  with  the  subject  will  find  my 
statements  conformable  to  their  observations 
and  experience. 

Water. — One  of  the  greatest  bugbears  of 
this  place  and  which  is  always  brought  up  in 
conjunction  with  Illinois,  is  its  water.  I  know 
not  how  many  stories  I  heard  of  the  delete- 
rious qualities  and  the  disgusting  properties  of 
the  water  in  Illinois.  Indeed  I  had  made  up 
my  mind  to  undergo  a  severe  privation  in  this 
respect,  being  a  great  water  drinker  and  in- 
dulging in  scarcely  any  other  beverage,  and 
expected  to  taste  of  nothing  during  my  so- 
journ here,  but  a  muddy,  brackish,  nauseating 
mixture  of  iron,  lime,  coal,  slime,  and  the 


WATER. 


quintessence  of  vegetable  decomposition. 
Whereas,  the  truth  is,  I  have  not  passed  a 
drop  of  disagreeable,  distasteful  water  .through 
my  lips  since  I  entered  the  state.  The  most 
crystal  waters  of  the  Green  Mountains  do  not 
excel  the  limpid,  clear,  cool,  delicious  waters 
of  Illinois.  The  country,  in  all  its  broken 
portions,  abounds  with  springs,  in  quality  and 
quantity  not  to  be  surpassed  in  the  world,  and 
in  the  middle  of  the  largest  prairies  the  same 
delicious  beverage,  cold  almost  as  ice,  maybe 
obtained  by  sinking  a  well  a  few  feet  beneath 
the  surface.  It  i«  true  that  all  the  waters  of 
the  west  are  strongly  impregnated  with  lime, 
which  renders  them  somewhat  hard,  but  one 
soon  becomes  so  accustomed  to  it  as  never  to 
notice  it.  It  is  also  not  to  be  denied,  that  it 
acts  medicinally  on  the  emigrant.  But  this  is 
far  more  salutary  than  injurious,  if  it  be  not 
too  freely  indulged,  and  it  soon  ceases  to  ex- 
ert any  undue  influence  on  the  system.  I 
have  never  hesitated  to  indulge  freely  in  its 
use  after  the  first  fortnight,  and  I  have  never 
experienced  the  slightest  inconvenience  there- 
from. Indeed  I  do  not  believe  so  large  a 


100  WATER, 

.tract  in  New  England  or  the  Middle  States 
can  be  found  of  the  same  extent  with  Illinois, 
which  produces  so  much  pure  water  and  so 
obtained. 


LITERATURE.  101 


CHAPTER  IX. 

False  opinion  upon  literature — A  fifth  rate  lawyer's  chance 
of  success  at  the  west — Respectable  share  of  talent  in  llli- 

:  nois— Libraries  and  scholars  in  log  cabins — Room  for  tal- 
ent at  the  West — Preferment  the  result  of  worth  and  ap- 
plication— Provisions  for  education  in  Illinois — Illinois 
College— Shurtleff  College— Other  Colleges— Same  liberal 
policy  pursued  in  other  new  states. 

A  VERY  false  opinion  of  the  literature  and 
morality,  as  well  as  of  the  opportunities  for  ed- 
ucation at  the  west,  prevails  to  such  an  extent 
among  well  informed  people  at  the  east,  that 
I  deem  it  not  inexpedient  to  devote  a  chapter 
to  these  subjects,  by  which  I  hope  to  promote 
juster  and  more  favorable  views.  I  suppose 
it  is  generally  understood  in  New  England, 
that  the  large  towns  and  cities  in  Illinois  and 
other  parts  of  the  west,  are  tolerably  well 
supplied  with  literary  men  in  all  the  profes- 
sions. But  it  is  as  generally  supposed  that 
the  smaller  inland  towns  and  villages,  and  es- 
pecially the  agricultural  portions,  are  exceed- 
ingly destitute  of  talent  or  literature.  Such, 
I  know,  was  in  some  degree  my  own  impres- 
9* 


102  TALENT. 

sion  ;  and  I  well  remember  hearing  a  fifth- 
rate  lawyer,  in  Boston,  who  was  making  ar- 
rangements for  quitting  the  place  where  pro- 
motion was  beyond  hope,  speak  of  his  expec- 
tations of  success  here  in  such  a  manner  as 
plainly  showed  that  he  expected  nothing  less 
than  a  judgeship  or  a  seat  in  congress  :  where- 
as he  will  find  himself  as  much  a  fifth-rate 
lawyer  here  as  in  Boston.  The  truth  is,  there 
is  as  fair  a  proportion  of  talent  in  Illinois,  as  in 
any  other  state  in  the  Union  in  proportion  to  its 
population.  There  are,  it  is  true,  but  a  very 
few  minds  of  the  highest  order — men  who 
are  marked  as  the  leaders  of  our  republic,  or 
stars  of  the  first  magnitude  in  the  literary 
galaxy  of  America — but  there  is  an  unusual 
amount  of  very  respectable,  clever  talent ; 
there  are  a  large  number  of  men  whose  literary 
and  classical  acquirements  fit  them  for  every 
office,  and  would  make  them  ornaments  of  any 
society  in  North  America.  Nor  are  they  to 
be  found  alone  in  our  larger  towns  ;  they  are 
very  liberally  strewed  over  all  the  soil  of  this 
great  and  growing  state.  In  travelling  through 
the  country,  one  will  meet  with  a  well  thumbed 


LIBRARIES. 

and  select  library  in  the  log  cabin,  and  listen  to 
discourse  on  any  topic  in  that  rude  home 
which  would  give  s-pirit  and  life  to  an  assem- 
blage in  a  Boston  drawing-room.  Already 
there  is  a  sufficient  amount  of  literary  talent  in 
Illinois  to  fill  with  ability  and  success  any 
chair  of  professorship  in  any  educational 
institution,  or  any  office  of  trust  in  the  gift  of 
the  people.  But  all  this  talent  is  not  available. 
Much  of  it  is  withdrawn  from  active  life,  and 
js  to  be  met  but  in  the  seclusion  of  agricul- 
tural life.  Yet  there  is  enough  for  any  present 
exigency,  and  as  the  field  of  action  enlarges 
itself,  the  whole  ground  will  be  covered  by 
immigration,  or  the  annual  graduations  from 
their  own  literary  institutions. 

Indeed,  a  man  of  respectable  talents  coming 
from  the  east  or  south  finds  here  many  and 
powerful  competitors,  and  will  have  to  work 
his  way  to  favor  or  wealth  in  his  profession, 
much  as  he  would  elsewhere.  It  is  true 
there  is  less  competition  because  there  is  a 
wider  field,  the  facilities  are  multiplied  and 
multiplying,  instead  of  being  nearly  exhausted, 
as  is  the  case  in  the  east,  A  young  man  of 


104       TALENT  NECESSAKY  TO   SUCCESS. 

enterprise  and  a  small  capital,  whether  in  law, 
medicine,  engineering,  surveying,  or  in  the 
mercantile  business,  stands  a  much  fairer 
chance  to  succeed  in  either  here,  than  any 
where  east  or  south,  because  not  only  is  his 
field  larger  and  competition  less,  but  new 
sources  of  wealth  and  power  are  developed 
every  day,  and  more  and  more.  But  the 
same  talent,  tact  and  industry  are  requisite 
here  as  elsewhere.  The  difference  is,  he 
must  succeed  here,  elsewhere  he  may. 

Let  no  young  man  intending  to  pursue 
either  of  the  above  professions,  set  his  face 
westward  with  the  false  impression  that  a  small 
modicum  of  talent  or  education  and  a  careless 
devotion  to  his  business  will  secure  him  either 
a  competence  or  honor.  He  will  suffer  sad 
disappointment.  On  the  other  hand  let  no 
young  man  hesitate  an  instant,  who ;  has  a  fair 
share  of  talent  and  tact,  and  whose  patience 
will  enable  him  to  endure,  and  disposition  to 
prosecute,  the  labors  necessary  to  success. 
He  can  but  succeed — fame  and  wealth,  with 
a  fair  proportion  of  enjoyment,  are  here  in 
store  for  all  such,  provided  all  this  be  accom- 


SCHOOLS.  105? 

panied  witfoan  integrity  of  purpose  which  no 
temptation  can  seduce,  and  perseverance 
which  no  disappointment  can  overcome.  I 
intend  to  devote  a  larger  space  to  mechanics 
and  farmers  with  hints  to  emigrants  in  gene- 
ral, in  which  will  be  found  some  interesting, 
matter  respecting  labor,  produce,  prices,  trav- 
elling, settling,  etc,  etc. 

The  following  hints  respecting  education  in 
Illinois  I  have  derived  from  sources  entitled, 
to  much  credit,  and  may  be  relied  on  as  quite 
correct. 

The  congress  of  the  United  States,  in  the 
act  for  admitting  the  state  of  Illinois  into  the 
union  upon  equal  footing  with  the  other  west- 
ern states,  granted  to  it  the  section  numbered. 
sixteen  in  every  township,  or  one  thirtysixth, 
part  of  all  the  public  lands  within  the  state, 
for  the  use  of  schools.  The  avails  of  this 
section  are  understood  to  constitute  a  fund  for 
the  benefit  of  the  families  living  within  the 
surveyed  township,  and  not  the  portion  of  a 
common  fund  to  be  applied  by  the  state  for 
the  general  purposes  of  education. 

Three  per  cent,  of  the  net  proceeds  of  all, 


106  STJRPLUS    FUND. 

the  public  lands,  lying  within  this  state,  which 
shall  be  sold  after  the  1st  of  January,  1819,  is 
to  be  paid  over  by  the  general  government, 
and  constitute  a  common  fund  for  education 
under  the  direction  of  the  state  authority. 
One  sixth  of  this  three  per  cent,  fund  is  to  be 
exclusively  bestowed  upon  a  college,  or  uni- 
versity. 

Two  entire  townships,  or  46,080  acres, 
selected  from  choice  portions  of  the  public 
lands,  have  likewise  been  given  to  education. 
Part  of  this  land  has  been  sold  by  state 
authority  and  the  avails  funded  at  six  per  cent, 
interest. 

The  amount  of  funds  realized  from  these 
sources,  and  under  the  charge  of  the  state, 
(independent  of  the  sixteenth  sections,)  is 
about  $384,183,  the  interest  of  which  is  now 
distributed  annually  to  such  schools  as  make 
due  returns  to  the  proper  authority. 

By  a  recent  act  of  the  legislature,  a  moiety 
of  the  "  surplus  fund,"  received  from  the 
national  treasury,  is  to  be  converted  into  bank 
stock,  and  the  income  to  be  distributed  to 
common  schools.  The  income  of  the  three 


SCHOOL    FUND.  10T 

per  centum  from  the  sales  of  public  lands,  will 
continue  as  long  as  there  are  public  lands  to  be 
sold. 

The  unsold  lands  in  this  state  belonging  to 
the  general  government,  may  be  estimated  at 
18,000,000  of  acres.  Were  this  sold  at  the 
present  minimum  price,  it  would  produce 
$22,500,000,  of  which  three  per  cent,  would 
be  675,000  dollars. 

But  it  is  highly  probable  that  this  immense 
domain  will  not  be  sold  at  its  present  price  ; 
we  will  put  the  average  value  at  seventyfive 
cents  per  acre,  or  $13,500,000,  of  which 
three  per  cent,  belonging  to  this  state,  would 
give  $405,000  for  education  purposes. 

The  amount  of  the  sections  numbered  six- 
teen, and  reserved  for  schools  in  the  respec- 
tive townships,  was  estimated  by  the  commis- 
sioner of  public  lands,  and  reported  to  con- 
gress in  April,  1832,  at  975,457  acres  in 
Illinois. 

This  tract  is  not  usually  sold  until  the  town- 
ship in  which  it  lies  is  somewhat  populated, 
and  hence  commands  a  higher  price  than  other 
lands.  The  section  in  the  vicinity  of  Chicago 


108  PERMANENT    FUND. 

was  sold  in  November,  1833,  (after  reserving 
'twelve  acres,)  for  $38,705.  Other  tracts  in 
settled  portions  of  the  state  have  been  sold  for 
from  five  to  ten  dollars  per  acre. 

Estimating    the  whole  at  two   dollars  per 
acre,  the  value  is  $1,954,914. 

Present  fund  at  interest,  $384,183 

Value  of  seminary  lands  unsold,       20,000 
•Value  of  sections  numbered  six- 
teen, 1,954,914 

Estimate  of  the  three  per  cent, 
fund  on  nil  public  land  now  unsold 
in  the  state,  at  seventyfive  cents  per 
•acre,  405,000 


$2,764,097 

To  this  add  the  moiety  of  the  surplus  fund 
to  be  invested  in  bank  stock  and  the  income 
to  be  distributed  with  the  interest  on  the  school 
fund,  equal  to  318,500  dollars  ;  but  as  it  is 
liable  to  be  demanded  by  the  general  govern- 
ment, I  have  not  considered  it  any  portion  of 
the  permanent  school  fund. 

The  funds  and  claims  of  Illinois  for  educa- 
tion purposes  may  be  estimated  at  three  mil- 
lions of  dollars. 


SCHOOL    SYSTEM.  109 

But  it  is  sincerely  and  ardently  hoped  that 
the  patriotism,  foresight,  intelligence,  and 
liberality  of  congress,  after  reducing  the  price 
of  the  public  lands  to  the  actual  settler  and 
cultivator,  will  be  manifested  in  applying  all 
future  proceeds  to  the  object  of  common 
schools,  by  some  equitable  apportionment 
amongst  the  several  states  of  the  Union. 
Hitherto  these  lands  have  been  pledged  for 
the  payment  of  the  national  debt.  That  being 
now  accomplished,  I  cannot  but  hope  this 
question  will  be  settled  to  the  entire  satisfac- 
tion of  all  parties,  by  a  consecration  of  the  net 
proceeds  to  the  noble,  beneficent,  and  truly 
national  purpose  of  educating  every  child  in 
the  Union.  Such  a  disposition  of  the  public 
domain  would  reflect  more  honor  on  this  na- 
tion, and  tend  more  to  its  aggrandisement,  than 
a  hundred  wars  or  a  thousand  victories.  It 
would  provide  for  a  triumphant  conquest  of 
human  ignorance,  and  carry  joy  and  gladness 
to  millions  of  hearts. 

Notwithstanding  the  liberal  provision  in 
funds  and  lands  for  education,  little  has  yet 
been  done  by  the  legislature  in  providing  a 
10 


110  LEGISLATIVE    AID    FOR 

system  for  common  schools.  A  law  was 
framed  in  1825,  providing  for  school  districts 
to  become  incorporated,  by  the  action  of  the 
county  commissioners'  courts,  upon  a  petition 
of  a  majority  of  the  qualified  voters  of  any 
settlement.  The  voters  in  each  district,  by  a 
majority  of  votes,  could  levy  a  tax  not  exceed- 
ing one  half  per  centum  on  property,  and 
appoint  trustees  and  other  officers  to  manage 
the  business. 

This  feature  of  the  law  was  soon  made 
unpopular,  and  a  subsequent  legislature  repeal- 
ed that  portion  that  authorized  the  levying  of 
a  tax,  and  made  other  modifications,  by  which 
it  remains  on  the  statute  book  as  a  matter  of 
very  little  value. 

The  preamble  to  this  law  establishes  be- 
yond controversy,  the  great  principles  for 
legislative  authority  and  aid  for  common 
schools.  It  reads  thus  :  — 

"  To  enjoy  our  rights  and  liberties,  we 
must  understand  them  ; — their  security  and 
protection  ought  to  be  the  first  object  of  a 
free  people  ;  —  and  it  is  a  well  established  fact 
that  no  nation  has  ever  continued  long  in  the 


COMMON    SCHOOLS.  Ill 

enjoyment  of  civil  and  political  freedom,  which 
was  not  both  virtuous  and  enlightened  ;  — 
and  believing  that  the  advancement  of  litera- 
ture always  has  been,  and  ever  will  be  the 
means  of  developing  more  fully  the  rights  of 
man  ;  that  the  mind  of  every  citizen  of  every 
republic,  is  the  common  propety  of  society, 
and  constitutes  the  basis  of  its  strength  and 
happiness ;  —  it  is  considered  the  peculiar  duty 
of  a  free  government,  like  ours,  to  encourage 
and  extend  the  improvement  and  cultivation 
of  the  intellectual  energies  of  the  whole  : 
Therefore, 

"  Be  it  enacted,  etc." 

Provision  now  exists  by  law  for  the  people 
to  organise  themselves  into  school  districts, 
aud  to  conduct  the  affairs  of  the  school  in  a 
corporate  capacity  by  trustees,  and  they  can 
derive  aid  from  public  funds  under  control  of 
the  state. 

Upon  petition  from  the  inhabitants  of  a 
township,  the  section  numbered  sixteen  can 
be  sold,  and  the  proceeds  funded,  the  interest 
of  which  may  be  applied  annually  to  the 
teachers  of  such  schools  within  the  township 


112  SCHOOL    TEACHERS. 

as  conform  to  the  requisites  of  the  law.  To 
some  extent  the  people  have  availed  themselves 
of  these  provisions  and  receive  the  interest  of 
the  fund. 

A  material  defect  in  all  the  laws  that  have 
been  framed  in  this  state,  on  this  subject,  has 
been  in  not  requiring  the  necessary  qualifica- 
tions on  the  part  of  teachers,  and  a  previous 
examination  before  a  competent  board  or  com- 
mittee. 

Without  such  a  provision  no  school  law  will 
be  of  much  real  service.  The  people  have 
suffered  much  already,  and  common  school 
education  has  been  greatly  retarded  by  the 
imposition  of  unqualified  and  worthless  persons 
under  the  name  of  school  teachers  ;  and  were 
funds  ever  so  liberally  bestowed,  they  would 
prove  of  little  real  service,  without  the  requi- 
sites of  sobriety,  morality,  and  sufficient  ability 
to  teach  well  on  the  part  of  those  who  get  the 
pay. 

A  complete  common  school  system  must  be 
organised,  sooner  or  later,  and  will  be  sustain- 
ed by  the  people.  The  lands,  education 
funds,  and  wants  of  the  country,  call  for  it. 


PRIMARY    SCHOOLS.  113 

Many  good  primary  schools  now  exist,  and 
where  three  or  four  of  the  leading  families 
unite  and  exert  their  influence  in  favor  of  the 
measure,  it  is  not  difficult  to  have  a  good 
school. 

In  each  county  a  school  commissioner  is 
appointed  to  superintend  the  sales  of  the  six- 
teenth sections,  loan  the  money,  receive  and 
apportion  the  interest  received  from  this  fund 
and  from  the  state  funds,  receive  schedule 
returns  of  the  number  of  scholars  that  attend 
each  school,  and  make  report  annually  to  the 
secretary  of  state. 

The  people  in  any  settlement  can  organise 
themselves  into  a  school  district,  employ  a 
teacher,  and  obtain  their  proportion  of  the 
income  from  the  school  funds,  provided  the 
teacher  keeps  a  schedule  of  the  number  of 
scholars  who  attend,  the  number  of  days  each 
one  is  present,  and  the  number  of  days  each 
scholar  is  absent,  a  copy  of  which  must  be  cer- 
tified by  the  trustees  of  the  district,  and  return- 
ed  to  the  school  commissioners  of  the  county 
semi-annually. 

If  the  school  is  made  up  from  parts  of  two 
10* 


114  ILLINOIS    COLLEGE. 

or  more  townships,  a  separate  schedule  of  the 
scholars  from  each  township  must  be  made 
out. 

The  term  ''township"  in  the  school  laws 
merely  expresses  the  surveys  of  thirtysix  sec- 
tions, and  not  a  civil  organization. 

Several  seminaries,  and  institutions  for  col- 
leges, have  been  established  and  promise 
success. 

Illinois  College. — This  institution  is  located 
in  the  vicinity  of  Jacksonville,  and  one  mile 
west  of  the  town.  Its  situation  is  on  a  de- 
lightful eminence,  fronting  the  east,  and  over- 
looking the  town,  and  a  vast  extent  of  beauti- 
ful prairie  country,  now  covered  with  well 
cultivated  farms. 

This  institution  owes  its  existence  and 
prosperity,  under  God,  to  the  pious  enterprise 
of  several  young  men,  formerly  members  of 
Yale  College  in  Connecticut.  Most  of  its 
funds  have  been  realised  from  the  generous 
donations  of  the  liberal  and  philanthropic 
abroad. 

The  buildings  are  as  follows  :  a  brick  edi- 
one  hundred  and  four  feet  in  length,  forty 


COLLEGE    BUILDINGS.  115 

feet  in  width,  five  stories  high,  including  the 
basement ;  containing  thirtytwo  apartments  for 
the  accommodation  of  officers  and  students. 
Each  apartment  consists  of  a  sitting  room,  or 
study,  fourteen  feet  by  twelve,  two  bed  rooms, 
each  eight  feet  square,  two  dress  closets,  and 
one  wood  closet.  The  basement  story  em- 
braces a  boarding  hall,  kitchen,  store  rooms, 
etc.  for  the  general  accommodation. 

To  this  main  building  are  attached  two 
wings,  each  thirtyeight  feet  long,  and  twenty- 
eight  feet  wide,  three  stories  high,  including 
the  basement ;  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
families  of  the  faculty. 

The  chapel  is  a  separate  building,  sixtyfive 
feet  long,  and  thirtysix  feet  wide,  two  stories 
high,  including  rooms  for  public  worship,  lec- 
tures, recitations,  library,  etc.  and  eight 
rooms  for  students. 

There  are  also  upon  the  premises  a  farm 
house,  barn,  workshops  for  students  who  wish 
to  perform  manual  labor,  and  other  out  build- 
ings. 

The  farm  consists  of  three  hundred  acres 
of  land,  all  under  fence.  The  improvements 


116  OFFICERS    OF 

and  stock  on  the  farm  are  valued  at  several 
thousand  dollars. 

Students  who  choose  are  allowed  to  employ 
a  portion  of  each  day  in  manual  labor,  either 
upon  the  farm  or  in  the  workshop.  Some 
individuals  earned  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars 
each  during  the  year. 

The  library  consist  of  about  1,500  volumes. 
There  is  also  a  valuable  chemical  and  philo- 
sophical apparatus. 

The  year  is  divided  into  two  terms,  of 
twenty  weeks  each.  The  first  term  commen- 
ces eight  weeks  after  the  third  Wednesday  in 
September.  The  second  term  commences 
on  the  Wednesday  previous  to  the  5th  of  May; 
leaving  eight  weeks  vacation  in  the  fall  and 
four  in  the  spring. 

There  are  fortytwo  students  connected  with 
the  college  classes,  and  twentytwo  students  in 
the  preparatory  department.  Of  this  number, 
several  are  beneficiaries,  who  are  aided  by 
education  societies,  with  a  view  to  the  gospel 
ministry.  A  considerable  number  more  are 
pious. 

The  trustees  of  the  college  are  Rev.  Ed- 


THE    COLLEGE.  117 

ward  Beecher,  President ;  Hon.  Samuel  D. 
Lockwood,  John  P.  Wilkinson,  Esq.,  Wil- 
liam C.  Posey,  Esq.,  Rev.  Messrs  Theron 
Baldwin,  John  F.  Brooks,  Elisha  Jenny, 
William  Kirby,  Asa  Turner,  John  G.  Bergen, 
and  John  Tillson,  Esq.,  Rev.  Gideon  Black- 
burn, D.  D.,  Gov.  Joseph  Duncan,  Col. 
Thomas  Mather,  Winthrop  S.  Gilman,  Esq., 
Frederick  Collins,  Esq.;  Nathaniel  Coffin, 
Esq.,  Treasurer  and  Agent  ;  Rev.  J.  M. 
Sturtevant,  Secretary  ;  Jeremiah  Graves,  su- 
perintendent of  the  farm. 

Faculty. — Rev.  Edward  Beecher.,  A.  M., 
President  and  Professor  of  Moral  and  Intel- 
lectual Philosophy  and  Political  Economy. 

Rev.  J.  M.  Sturtevant,  A.  M.  Professor  of 
Mathematics  and  Natural  Philosophy,  and 
Lecturer  on  Chemistry. 

Truman  *M.  Post,  A.  M.  Professor  of  the 
Greek  and  Latin  Languages. 

Jonathan  Baldwin  Turner,  A.  M.  Profes- 
sor of  Rhetoric  and  Belles  Letters. 

Reuben  Gaylord,  A.  B.  Instructor  in  the 
preparatory  department. 

Classes. — Senior,  3  ;  Junior,  1 1  ;  Sopho- 


118  SHURTLEFF    COLLEGE. 

more,  12;  Freshman,  16.     Total  Collegiate 

department,  42 

In  the  Preparatory  department,  22 

64 

The  course  of  instruction  is  intended  to  be 
equal  to  the  first  rate  colleges  in  the  eastern 
states. 

Shurtleff  College  of  Alton,  Illinois^  is  pleas- 
antly situated  at  Upper  Alton.  It  originated 
in  the  establishment  of  a  seminary  at  Rock 
Spring,  in  1827,  and  which  was  subsequently 
removed. 

At  a  meeting  held  June  4th,  1832,  seven 
gentlemen  formed  a  written  compact,  and 
agreed  to  advance  funds  for  the  purchase  of 
about  three  hundred  and  sixty  acres  of  land, 
and  put  up  an  academical  building  of  brick, 
two  stories,  with  a  stone  basement,  forty  feet 
long  and  thirtytwo  feet  wide.  A  large  stone 
building  for  a  refectory,  and  for  professors' 
and  students'  rooms  has  since  been  erected. 
The  Rev.  Hubbel  Loomis  commenced  a 
Preparatory  school  in  1833.  In  1835  build- 
ing lots  were  laid  off  within  the  corporate 


ALTON  THEOLOGICAL  SEMINARY.      J  19 

bounds  of  the  town,  a  part  of  which  was  sold, 
and  a  valuable  property  still  remains  for  future 
sale. 

The  same  year  funds  to  some  extent  were 
obtained  in  the  eastern  states,  of  which  the 
liberal  donation  of  ten  thousand  dollars  was 
received  from  Benjamin  Shurtleff,  M.  D.,  of 
Boston,  which  gives  name  to  the  institution. 
Of  this  fund  five  thousand  dollars  is  to  be  ap- 
propriated towards  a  college  building,  and 
five  thousand  dollars  towards  the  endowment 
of  a  Professorship  of  Oratory,  Rhetoric  and 
Belles-letters. 

Regular  college  classes  are  not  yet  organ- 
ised. The  Preparatory  department  is  in  regu- 
lar progress  and  contains  about  sixty  students. 

Rev.  Washington  Leverett,  A.  M.  Profes- 
sor of  Mathematics  and  Natural  Philosophy. 

Rev.  Zenas  B.  Newman,  A.  M.  Principal 
of  the  Preparatory  Department.  Measures 
are  progressing  to  put  up  a  large  college 
building,  and  to  complete  the  organization  of 
the  college  faculty. 

Jllton  Theological  Seminary,  is  an  organi- 
zation distinct  from  Shurtleff  College.  Re  r. 


120  CANTON    COLLEGE. 

Lewis  Colby,  A.  M.,  isTheological  Professor, 
with  seven  or  eight  students,  licentiates  of 
Baptist  churches,  under  his  charge. 

McKendreean  College,  under  the  super- 
vision of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  church,  is 
located  at  Lebanon,  St.  Clair  county.  It  has 
a  commodious  framed  building,  and  about 
fifty  students  in  the  preparatory  department, 
under  the  charge  of  two  competent  instruct- 
ors. 

McDonough  College,  at  Macomb,  has  just 
commenced  operations.  It  is  identified  with 
the  interests  of  the  '  old  school'  Presbyterians, 
as  the  Illinois  college  at  Jacksonville  is  with 
the  c  new  school'  Presbyterians. 

Canton  College,  in  Fulton  county  has  re- 
cently been  chartered  as  a  college  by  the  leg- 
islature, and  is  a  respectable  acedemicai  insti- 
tution, and  has  seventy  or  eighty  students. 
Rev.  G.  B.  Perry,  A.  M..  formerly  pastor  of 
the  Spruce  street  Baptist  church,  Philadel- 
phia, has  recently  been  elected  president  of 
this  institution. 

A  literary  institution,  modelled  somewhat 
after  the  plan  of  the  Oneido  Institute  in  the 


ACADEMIES.  121 

state  of  New  York,  is  in  progress  at  Galesboro, 
Knox  county,  under  the  supervision  of  the 
Rev.  Mr  Gale  and  other  gentlemen. 

Belvidere  College,  in  Winnebago  county, 
has  been  recently  chartered,  and  an  effort  is 
about  being  made  to  establish  a  respectable 
literary  institution  in  this  new  and  interesting 
portion  of  the  state. 

Several  respectable  academies  and  semina- 
ries are  also  in  operation,  established  chiefly 
by  individual  effort,  where  good  schools  are 
taught.  Amongst  these  we  notice  the  follow- 
ing, though  some  of  equal  importance  may  be 
overlooked. 

The  Jacksonville  Academy,  conducted  by 
Messrs  Charles  E.  Blood,  and  Charles  B. 
Barton,  A.  B.  is  established  for  the  conveni- 
ence of  those  whose  studies  are  not  sufficiently 
advanced  to  enter  the  Preparatory  Depart- 
ment of  Illinois  College. 

The  Jacksonville  Female  Academy  is  a 
flourishing  institution. 

A  respectable  academy  is  in  operation  at 
Springfield,  another  at  Princeton,  Putnam 
11 


i22  ALTON  FEMALE   SEMINARY. 

county,  a  third  at  Griggsville,  and  a  fourth  at 
Quincy. 

The  Alton  Female  Seminary,  is  an  institu- 
tion projected  for  a  full  and  useful  course  of 
instruction,  on  a  large  scale,  towards  the  es- 
tablishment of  which  Benjamin  Godfrey,  Esq., 
will  contribute  fifteen  or  twenty  thousand  dol- 
lars. 

It  is  located  at  Monticello,  a  little  more 
than  four  miles  from  Alton,  on  the  borders  of 
a  delightful,  elevated  prairie,  and  is  designed 
wholly  as  a  boarding  school.  The  business 
of  instruction  will  be  in  the  hands  of  compe- 
tent ladies.  The  system  of  instruction  will  be 
extensive.  The  Rev.  Theron  Baldwin  will 
exercise  a  general  supervision  over  the  insti- 
tution, and  lecture  on  scientific  and  religious 
subjects. 

The  project  of  establishing  a  seminary,  for 
the  education  of  teachers  at  Waverly  in  the 
southeastern  part  of  Morgan  county,  is  enter- 
tained by  several  gentlemen. 

A  seminary  is  about  being  established  in  a 
settlement  of  Reformed  Presbyterians  in  the 
eastern  part  of  Randolph  county. 


EDUCATION    IN    ILLINOIS.  123 

The  "  Reformers,"  or  Campbellites,  as 
some  term  them,  have  a  charter  and  contem- 
plate establishing  a  college  at  Hanover,  in 
Tazewell  county. 

Thus  a  broad  and  deep  foundation  is  about 
being  laid  in  this  state  for  the  promotion  of 
education. 

Several  lyceums  and  literary  associations 
exist  in  this  state,  and  there  is  in  almost  every 
county  a  decided  expression  of  popular  opinion 
in  favor  of  education. 

It  will  be  seen  by  what  precedes  that  Illi- 
nois has  already  done  nobly  in  the  cause  of 
education.  The  provisions  thus  made,  it  is 
true  are  not  all  available/  but  they  form  the 
basis  on  which  is  hereafter  to  rise  a  structure 
that  shall  reflect  great  honor  on  the  men  who 
had  the  disposal  of  her  early  destinies,  and 
which  shall  be  a  "  bright,  particular"  crown 
of  glory  to  their  sons  forever. 

This  liberal  policy,  it  is  presumed  will  be 
followed  by  all  the  new  states  and  the  territo- 
ries. It  is  a  pleasing  reflection  to  a  mind  de- 
voted to  the  best  interests  of  humanity,  that 
this  vast  and  beautiful  region,  so  bountifully 


124  A    TRUE    POLICY. 

provided  for  in  all  natural  resources,  so  admi- 
rably adapted  to  growth  and  greatness  —  des- 
tined as  it  is,  to  become  the  home  of  millions 
on  millions  of  our  children  and  children's  chil- 
dren —  is  also,  in  the  liberal  and  just  policy  of 
its  early  settlers,  provided  with  the  true  and 
permanent  conservative  —  the  salt  of  educa- 
tion —  which  is  to  keep  up  a  wholesome  moral 
tone  in  society,  and  fit  these  myriads,  not  only 
to  act  well  their  part  in  life,  but  to  help  fashion 
them  for  glory  and  immortality. 


DITISION    OF    LAND.  125 


CHAPTER    X. 

Division  of  land  at  the  West— Townships — Lesser  Divisions 
— Mode  of  numbering—  Diagrams— Simplicity  of  the  whole 
plan. 

NOTHING  can  be  simpler  than  the  method 
adopted  by  the  general  government,  by  which 
the  new  states  and  territories  are  divided. 
The  whole  country  is  surveyed  by  "  meridian 
lines^  running  due  north  and  south.  These 
are  intersected  by  u  base  lines,"  running  at 
right  angles  ;  or  east  to  west.  Parallel  to 
these  lines  the  whole  county  is  divided  into 
townships  of  six  miles  square  invariably. 
These  townships  are  merely  geographical  dis- 
tinctions, and  have  nothing  to  do  with  corpo- 
ration lines.  A  township  is  a  tract  of  country 
six  miles  square  ;  a  town  or  corporate  territo- 
ry, whose  municipal  affairs  are  managed  by 
the  inhabitants  of  such  territory  exclusively, 
has  nothing  to  do  with  these  merely  trigono- 
metrical lines,  but  is  of  such  extent  and  shape 
as  may  be  desirable  ;  embracing  a  part  of  one 
11* 


126  TOWNSHIPS, 

township,  or  parts  of  several,  where  they 
unite,  and  are  incorporated  by  an  act  of  gen- 
eral government.  A  village  or  city  is  a  town, 
and  such,  if  incorporated,  conducts  its  own  af- 
fairs, while  the  resident  in  the  same  township, 
if  out  of  the  corporate  limits,  is  subject 
to  the  county  administration  of  the  law.  I 
am  thus  particular,  because  the  system  is  so 
unlike  that  at  the  east,  where  every  township 
is  in  fact  a  town,  and  subject  to  the 
same  municipal  regulations  as  the  village 
or  city  which  may  chance  to  be  in  the 
township . 

But  in  order  that  my  readers  may  under- 
stand the  simplicity  of  western  surveys,  and 
disposition  of  the  lands  throughout  the  west, 
I  will  transfer  a  more  minute  description  there- 
of, to  these  pages,  and  for  which  I  am  mainly 
indebted  to  Peck's  Gazetteer  of  Illinois, — a 
work,  by  the  way,  containing  much  valuable 
and  practical  knowledge  to  the  immigrant, 
whose  eye  is  fixed  on  Illinois. 

Li  all  the  new  states  and  territories,  the 
lands  which  are  owned  by  the  general  govern- 
ment, are  surveyed  and  sold  under  one  gen- 


MERIDIANS.  127 

eral  system.  In  the  surveys,  "meridian," 
lines  are  first  established,  running  north  from 
the  mouth  of  some  noted  river.  These  are 
intersected  with  "  base  "  lines. 

There  are  five  principal  meridians  in  the 
land  surveys  in  the  West. 

The  "First  Principal  Meridian"  is  a 
line  due  north  from  the  mouth  of  the  Miami. 

The  "  Second  Principal  Meridian"  is  a 
line  due  north  from  the  mouth  of  Little  Blue 
river  in  Indiana. 

The  "  Third  Principal  Meridian"  is  a 
line  due  north  from  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio. 

The  "  Fourth  Principal  Meridian  "  is  a 
line  due  north  from  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois. 

The  "Fifth  Principal  Meridian"  is  a 
line  due  north  from  the  mouth  of  the  Arkan- 
sas. Each  of  these  meridians  has  its  own 
base  line. 

The  surveys  connected  with  the  third  and 
fourth  meridians,  and  a  small  portion  of  the 
second,  embrace  the  state  of  Illinois. 

The  base  line  for  both  the  second  and  third 
principal  meridians  commences  at  Diamond 
Island,  in  the  Ohio,  opposite  Indiana,  and 


128         MODE  OP  NUMBERING. 

runs  due  west  till  it  strikes  the  Mississippi,  a 
few  miles  below  St.  Louis. 

All  the  townships  in  Illinois,  south  and  east 
of  the  Illinois  river,  are  numbered  from  this 
base  line  either  north  or  south. 

The  third  principal  meridian  terminates  with 
the  northern  boundary  of  the  state. 

The  fourth  principal  meridian  commences 
on  the  right  bank,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Illinois  river,  but  immediately  crosses  to  the 
east  shore,  and  passes  up  on  that  side,  (and  at 
one  place  nearly  fourteen  miles  distant,)  to  a 
point  in  the  channel  of  the  river,  seventytwo 
miles  from  its  mouth.  Here  its  base  line 
commences  and  extends  across  the  peninsula 
to  the  Mississippi,  a  short  distance  above 
Quincy.  The  fourth  principal  meridian  is 
continued  northward  through  the  military  tract, 
and  across  Rock  river,  to  a  curve  in  the  Mis- 
sissippi at  the  upper  rapids,  in  township  eight- 
een north,  and  about  twelve  or  fifteen  miles 
above  Rock  island.  It  here  crosses  and  passes 
up  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi  river  fifty- 
three  miles,  and  recrosses  into  Illinois,  and 
passes  through  the  town  of  Galena  to  the 


SECTIONS.  129 

northern  boundary  of  the  state.  It  is  thence 
continued  to  the  Wisconsin  river,  and  made 
the  principal  meridian  for  the  surveys  of  the 
territory,  while  the  northern  boundary  line  of 
the  state  is  constituted  its  base  line  for  that 
region. 

Having  formed  a  principal  meridian  with 
its  corresponding  base  line,  for  a  district  of 
country,  the  next  operation  of  the  surveyor  is 
to  divide  this  into  tracts  of  six  miles  square, 
called  "townships." 

In  numbering  the  townships  east  or  west 
from  a  principal  meridian,  they  are  called 
"  ranges,"  meaning  a  range  of  townships  ;  but 
in  numbering  north  or  south  from  a  base  line, 
they  are  called  u  townships. "  Thus  a  tract 
of  land  is  said  to  be  situated  in  township  four 
north,  in  range  three  east,  from  the  third  prin- 
cipal meridian  :  or  as  the  case  may  be. 

Townships  are  subdivided  into  square  miles, 
or  tracts  of  six  hundred  and  forty  acres  each, 
called  "  sections."  If  near  timber,  trees  are 
marked  and  numbered  with  the  section,  town- 
ship, and  range,  near  each  sectional  corner. 
If  in  a  large  prairie,  a  mound  is  raised  to  des- 


130  RANGES  AND   FRACTIONS. 

ignate  the  corner,  and  a  billet  of  charred  wood 
buried,  if  no  rock  is  near.  Sections  are 
divided  into  halves  by  a  line  north  and  south, 
and  into  quarters  by  a  transverse  line.  In 
sales,  under  certain  conditions,  quarters  are 
sold  in  equal  subdivisions  of  forty  acres  each, 
at  one  dollar  and  twentyfive  cents  per  acre. 
Any  person,  whether  a  native  born  citizen,  or 
a  foreigner,  may  purchase  forty  acres  of  the 
richest  soil,  and  receive  an  indisputable  title, 
for  fifty  dollars. 

Ranges  are  townships  counted  either  east 
or  west  from  meridians. 

Townships  are  counted  either  north  or  south 
from  their  respective  base  lines. 

Fractions  are  parts  of  quarter  sections 
intersected  by  streams  or  confirmed  claims. 

The  parts  of  townships,  sections,  quarters, 
etc.  made  at  the  lines  of  either  townships  or 
meridians  are  called  excesses  or  deficiencies. 

Sections,  or  miles  square,  are  numbered, 
beginning  in  the  northeast  corner  of  the  town- 
ship, progressively  west  to  the  range  line,  and 
then  progressively  east  to  the  range  line, 
alternately,  terminating  at  the  southeast  corner 


DIAGRAMS. 


131 


of  the  township,  from  one  to  thirtysix,  as  in 
the  following  diagram  : 


6 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 

IHalf  Sec- 
tion, or 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

1  Quarter 

18 

17 

16* 

15 

14 

13 

L 

do.  or  160 
acres. 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

i 

- 

- 

f 

1  Eighth 
do.  or  80 
acres. 

30 

99 

98 

97 

9fi 

9/» 

I 

Sixteenth 

do.  or  40 

31 

32 

33 

34 

35 

36 

By  the  above  diagrams  it  will  be  seen  that 
every  purchase  is  easily  found  and  defended. 
Patents  as  they  are  called,  i.  e.  deeds  from 
the  government  land  office,  are  given  and 
boundaries  mentioned  in  that  patent  conforming 
to  the  lines  of  survey.  Thus,  a  township  is 
numbered  from  a  certain  meridian  and  base. 
Thus,  Springfield — which  in  1840,  is  to  be- 
come the  seat  of  government  —  is  situated 
(see  map)  in  township  in  range  sixteen  north 
from  the  base  line,  and  in  range  five  from  the 
principal  meridian  west. 


*  Appropriated  for  schools  in  the  township. 


132  SIMPLICITY    OF   SURVEYS. 

The  sections  are  found  by  simply  commen- 
cing at  the  northeast  corner  of  the  diagram  as 
above  and  running  west  and  east  alternately 
until  the  section  designated  is  reached.  Sup- 
pose twenty  :  it  is  thus  described.  Section 
twenty,  in  township  —  east  —  north  or,  as  the 
point  from  the  base  and  meridian  may  be. 

The  divisions  of  sections  are  numbered  in 
the  same  manner.  Thus,  a  half  section  is 
always  formed  by  running  a  line  through  the 
centre  of  the  section  north  and  south.  The 
eastern  half  being  the  fast  half  section,  the 
western  the  second  half  section.  The  lesser 
divisions  are  numbered  from  the  north-east 
corner,  and  called  fast,  second,  third,  fourth, 
&c.,  quarter,  eighth,  or  sixteenth.  Eighths 
are  usually  called  "  eighties,"  and  sixteenths, 
"/orto'es,"  sixteen  forties  making  a  section. 

I  have  been  thus  particular  in  this  account 
of  the  surveys  of  public  lands,  to  exhibit  the 
simplicity  of  a  system,  that  to  strangers,  unac- 
quainted with  the  method  of  numbering  the 
sections,  and  the  various  subdivisions,  appears 
perplexing  and  confused. 

A  large  tract  of  country  in  the  north,  and 


LAND    OFFICES.  I33E 

northeastern  portion  of  this  state  is  yet  unsur- 
veyed.  This  does  not  prevent  the  hardy 
pioneers  of  the  west  from  taking  possession, 
where  the  Ijyiian  title  is  extinct,  as  it  is  now 
to  all  lands  within  this  state.  They  risk  the- 
chance  of  purchasing  it  when  brought  inta 
market. 

Land  Offices  and  Districts. — There  are' 
ten  land  offices  in  Illinois,  in  as  many  districts^ 
open  for  the  sale  or  entry  of  public  knds. 

The  Land  District  of  Shawneetown,  embra- 
ces that  portion  of  the  state,  bounded  north 
by  the  base  line,  east  and  south  by  the  boun- 
daries of  the  state,  and  west  by  the  third  prin- 
cipal meridian. 

Office  for  the  entry  and  sale  of  lands  at 
Shawneetown. 

The  Land  District  of  Kaskaskia  is  bounded 
north  by  the  base  line,  and  comprehends  all 
that  part  of  the  state  that  lies  between  the  third 
principal  meridian  and  the  Mississippi. 

Land  office  at  Kaskaskia. 

The  Land  District  of  Edwardsville,  extends 
south  to  the  base  line,  east  to  the  third  princi- 
pal meridian,  north  to  the  line  that  separates 
12 


134  TAND   DISTRICTS 


the  thirteenth  and  fourteenth  townships  north) 
and  west  to  the  Mississippi. 

Land  office  at  Edwardsville. 

The  Land  District  of  Vandalia  extends 
south  to  the  base  line,  east  to  the  line  between 
ranges  eight  and  nine,  east  of  the  third  princi- 
pal meridian,  north  to  the  south  line  of 
Springfield  district,  and  west  to  the  range  line 
between  ranges  second  and  third  west  of  the 
third  principal  meridian. 

Land  office  at  Vandalia. 

The  Land  District  of  Palestine  extends 
south  to  the  northern  boundary  of  the  Shaw- 
neetown  district,  west  to  the  eastern  boundary 
of  Vandalia  district,  north  to  the  dividing  line 
between  townships  sixteen  and  seventeen 
north  ;  and  east  to  the  boundary  of  Indiana. 

The  Land  District  of  Springfield  extends 
south  to  Edwardsville  district,  east  to  the 
Palestine  ancl  Danville  districts,  and  north 
and  west  to  the  Illinois  river. 

The  Land  District  of  Quincy  embraces  all 
the  tract  of  country  between  the  Illinois  and 
Mississippi  rivers  to  the  line  between  town- 


AND    OFFICES.  135: 

ships  twelve  and  thirteen  north  and  west  of 
the  third  principal  meridian. 

The  Land  District  of  Danville  includes 
that  part  of  the  state  to  its  northern  boundary, 
which  lies  north  of  Palestine,  to  the  line  be- 
tween T.  30  and  31  N.  of  the  third  meridian 
and  east  of  Springfield  district. 

Northwest  District  is  in  the  northwestern 
portion  of  the  state,  and  bounded  south  by  the 
line  between  townships  twelve  and  thirteen 
north,  on  the  military  tract,  and  east  by  the- 
line  between  ranges  three  and  four  east  of  the 
third  principal  meridian,  and  north  by  the 
northern  boundary  of  the  state. 

Land  office  at  Galena. 

Northeast  District  is  in  the  northeast  por- 
tion of  the  state,  and  bounded  south  by  the 
line  between  townships  thirty  and  thirtyone, 
on  the  third  principal  meridian,  east  by  lake 
Michigan,  and  north  by  the  boundary  of  the- 
state. 

Land  office  at  Chicago. 

The  officers  in  each  land  district  are  a  reg- 
ister and  receiver,  appointed  by  the  president 


136  TRE-EMPTION    RIGHTS, 

and  senate,  and  paid  by  the  general  govern- 
ment. 

The  land,  by  proclamation  of  the  president, 
is  first  offered  for  sale  at  auction,  by  half  quar- 
ter sections.  If  no  one  bids  for  it  at  one 
dollar  and  twenty  five  cents  per  acre  or  up- 
wards, it  is  subject  to  private  entry  at  any 
time  after,  upon  payment  at  the  time  of  entry. 
No  credit  is  allowed. 

In  special  cases  congress  has  granted  pre- 
emption rights,  where  settlements  and  im- 
provements have  been  made  on  public  lands 
previous  to  the  public  sale. 

Pre-emption  Rights  confer  the  privilege 
only  of  purchasing  the  tract  containing  im- 
provements at  one  dollar  and  twentyfive  cents 
per  acre,  by  the  possessor,  without  the  risk 
of  a  public  sale. 

All  lands  in  this  state,  purchased  of  the 
general  government,  are  exempted  from  taxa- 
tion for  five  years  after  purchase. 

All  lands  owned  by  private  citizens  or  corpo- 
rate bodies,  and  not  exempted  as  above,  are 
divided  by  law  into  two  classes  of  taxation, 
called  "first  and  second  rates."  First  rate 


137 


lands  are  taxed  three  dollars  and  twenty  cents 
per  quarter  section  of  one  hundred  and  sixty 
acres,  per  annum.  Second  rate  lands  are 
taxed  two  dollars  and  forty  cents  per  quarter 
section,  besides  a  county  tax  for  roads.  Res- 
ident and  non-resident  landholders  are  taxed 
equally. 

Residents  owning  lands  in  the  different 
counties  may  list  the  same  and  pay  taxes  in; 
the  counties  where  they  reside,  or  in  the  au- 
ditor's office,  at  their  option. 

Non-residents  must  list  their  lands  in  the 
auditor's  office. 

Taxes  of  non-residents  are  required  to  be* 
paid  into  the  state  treasury,  annually,  on  or 
before  the  first  of  August.  If  not  paid  at  that 
time,  a  delinquent  list  of  all  lands,  owned 
by  non-residents,  on  which  taxes  have  not 
been  paid,  is  sent  to  the  elerk  of  the  county 
commissioners'  court  of  the  county  where  the 
land  lies,  and  a  transcript  of  this  list  is'  to  be 
published  in  some  newspaper,  printed  within 
the  state,  at  least  sixty  days  previous  to  sale. 

If  the  taxes  are  not  paid  to  the  clerk  of  the 
county  by  the  first  Monday  in  March,,  so  mucb 
12* 


138  LANDHOLDERS. 

of  the  land,  as  is  necessary  to  pay  taxes  and 
costs,  is  sold  at  the  seat  of  justice  of  the 
county. 

Lands  sold  for  taxes  may  be  redeemed 
within  two  years  from  the  time  of  sale,  by 
paying  to  the  clerk  of  the  county  for  the  use 
of  the  purchaser,  double  the  amount  of  taxes, 
interest,  and  costs  for  which  the  same  may 
have  been  sold. 

Lands  belonging  to  minor  heirs  may  be 
redeemed  at  any  time  before  the  expiration  of 
one  year  from  the  time  the  youngest  of  said 
heirs  shall  become  of  lawful  age. 

The  following  particulars  may  be  of  use  to 
non-resident  landholders  : 

1.  If  persons  have  held  lands  in  the  military 
tract,  or  in  the  state,  and  have  not  attended  to 
paying  taxes  for  more  than  two  years,   the 
land  is  sold  and  past  redemption,  unless  there 
are  minor  heirs. 

2.  "Every   non-resident  landholder  should 
employ  an  agent  within  the  state  to  pay  his 
taxes,  and  take  the  oversight  of  his  property. 

3.  All  deeds,  conveyances,  mortgages,  or 
title  papers  whatsoever,  must  be  recorded  in 


DEEDS,    ETC.  139* 

the  ic  recorders  office,"  in  the  county  where 
the  land  is  situated.  Deeds  and  title  papers 
are  not  in  force  until  filed  in  the  recorder's 
office. 

4.  The  words  "grant,  bargain  and  sell" 
whatever  may  be  the  specific  form  of  the 
instrument  in  other  respects,  convey  a  full  and 
bona  fide  title,  to  warrant  and  defendy  unless 
express  provision  is  made  to  the  contrary  in 
the  instrument. 

[See  revised  laws  of  Illinois,  of  1833,,  art, 
"  recorder,"  page  510J 


140  CHAPTER    FOR    IMMIGRANTS. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

Chapter  for  Immigrants  —  False  notions  prevalent  at  the 
east — Conflicting  reports  —  How  to  reconcile  them  — 
Home-sickness  —  Object  of  the  book  —  Impartiality  — 
Advice  —  Health  — Some  capital  necessary  to  success  — 
But  few  wealthy  —  Too  much  praise  of  the  west  —  Injuri- 
ous to  Immigration — "Illinois  in  1837-8,"  a  false  text 
book  — Let  not  the  Immigrant  expect  too  much  —  Seek  a 
healthy  location  —  Be  modest  —  Small  change  and  small 
men  —  Thirty  cents  for  a  glass  of  beer —  "  Improvements  " 
—  Frame  heuse  and  log  cabin  —  Fencing  and  ploughing  — 
Sod  corn  —  Time  to  plough  —  Select  good  stock — Best 
reason  for  Immigration. 

THERE  prevails  at  the  present  time  an 
intense  anxiety  at  the  east  to  know  something 
more  of  Illinois  ;  because  there  are  multitudes 
who  are  desirous  of  fixing  their  own  quarters 
here,  or  have  friends  who  have  already  plant- 
ed themselves  in  the  fertile  valleys  of  Illinois. 
Most  contradictory  reports  are  in  circulation 
respecting  this  land  of  promise,  and  all  ex- 
tremely exaggerated,  according  to  the  tastes 
of  the  reporters.  A  man  comes  out  here  to 
explore.  He  is  delighted  with  the  country, 
makes  a  purchase  and  starts  for  the  east  to 


FALSE    NOTIONS.  1'4 T 

"bring  out  his  family  to  his  new  home.     His 
reports  of  this  land  of  promise  are  extrava- 
gant :  the  soil  is  richer  than  the  manure  at  the 
east ;    everything  grows  without   culture   or 
care,   and  wealth   and   ease   flow  in  golden 
streams  over  all  the  land,  beneath  unclouded 
skies,  and  in  a  clime  shaming  Italy.     He  in- 
duces another  to  come  out  to  this  El  dorado . 
JJis   is  a   different   temperament,  easily  an- 
noyed, hardly  pleased,  a  dear  lover  of  home, 
travel  and  change  to  him  a  bore.     He  comes 
out  with  his  expectations  tiptoe.     He  ex- 
pects to   luxuriate  in   Arcadian   groves   and 
lovely  little   cottages  which  peep  out   from 
flowers  and  odorous  shrubs,  while  lie  is  rav- 
ished with  the  wild  music  of  ten  thousand 
birds.     He  looks  for  ease  and  happiness  and 
supposes  that  toil  is  at  an  end.     He  arrives, 
disgusted  with  the  voyage,  fretful  and  weary, 
and  curses  the  folly  that  led  him  from  his 
home.    He  finds  his  cottage  a  plain  log  house, 
naked  as  if  the  soil  were  incapable  of  bearing 
a  shrub,  and  his  sleep  is  not  soothed  by  the 
merciless  hum  of  the  moscheto,  the  barking  of 
an  hundred  dogs,  the  tinkling  of  a  half  dozen< 


142  HOME-SICKNESS, 

cracked  cow-bells  and  the  constant  grunt  and 
squeal  of  hogs  beneath  his  window,!  to  say 
nothing  of  those  innocent  but  somewhat 
troublesome  little  bed-fellows  which  are  gen- 
erally so  valiant  in  maintaining  their  right  to 
the  places  they  have  so  long  occupied.'  Per- 
haps it  is  a  rainy  reason,  and  the  mud,  of  the 
consistency  of  putty  and  as  slippery  as  snow, 
interdicts  all  intercourse  with  remote  neigh- 
bors. Everything  is  unlike  home,  and  in  his 
state  of  mind  well  calculated  to  compare  there- 
with unfavorably.  His  wife  —  if  he  have  one 
—  is  downcast  and  feverish,  making  tearful 
allusions  to  the  comforts  they  have  foolishly 
left  behind.  The  children  fret,  and  to  crown 
all,  they  are  all  more  or  less  affected  in  health 
by  the  change  in  climate  and  the  fatigue  of 
travel  they  have  undergone.  In  one  word, 
they  are  all  thoroughly  home-sick,  and  as  soon 
as  they  can,  they  pack  up  and  return  to  New 
England,  entirely  disgusted  with  the  west.  Of 
course  his  report  of  the  country  is  as  ex- 
travagantly unfavorable  as  the  former  was  un- 
justly laudatory.  He  saw  nothing  here  but 
what  was  evil.  No  society,  no  comfort, 


CONFLICTING    REPORTS.  143? 

no  health — -everything  filthy,  inconvenient? 
sickly.  Hence,  in  one  circle  you  will  find  the 
wildest  ideas  of  the  richness  of  soft,  salubrity 
of  climate,  and  beauty  of  scenery,  and  the 
ease  and  surety  with  which  a  complete  com- 
petence can  be  obtained  ;  and  in  another  the 
entire  picture  is  reversed. 

This  state  of  things  requires  that  a  careful, 
candid  statement  should  be  made  — >  that  things 
should  be  represented  as  they  are,  without  de- 
preciation or  exaggeration.  Such  is  the  ob- 
ject of  this  little  book  —  such  the  object  of 
the  advice  intended  to  be  given  in  this  chapter 
and  which  I  shall  give,  as  nearly  as  I  canr 
without  any  prejudice  for  or  against  Illinois 
and  the  west.  I  would  by  no  means  advise  a 
promiscuous  immigration,  for  I  believe  there 
are  multitudes  who  would  not  improve  their 
condition  by  changing  it.  I  would  say  to  the 
FARMER  who  is  out  of  debt,  well  located, 
finding  a  market  readily  for  all  he  produces,  if 
he  be  laying  up  something  for  the  future  and 
the  rigid  climate  is  favorable  to  his  health  and 
that  of  his  family,  stay  where  you  are,  be  con- 
tent with  "  well  enough,"  and  let  "  better  " 


144  SOME    CAPITAL 


alone.  I  would  say  to  the  MECHANIC  whose 
Tun  of  business  is  good  and  whose  health  is  not 
affected  by  so  northern  latitudes,  you  are  do- 
ing well, — a  change  to  Illinois  might  not  mul- 
tiply your  comforts  or  increase  your  wealth. 
And  such  would  be  my  advice  to  the  merchant 
^nd  professional  man. 

But  to  men  of  either  of  these  professions, 
not  established,  or  whose  health  is  sapped  by 
the  fierce  winds  of  the  north  and  east,  I  would 
say,  on  certain  conditions  go  to  the  west :  and 
these  I  will  consider. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  in  my  mind,  that 
persons  who  find  the  winters  of  New  England 
too  severe  for  their  health,  will  find  the  most 
favorable  results  from  changing  to  the  salubri- 
ous climate  of  southern  and  middle  Illinois. 
Nor  do  I  believe  that  they  will  be  more  likely 
to  fall  victims  to  the  diseases  incident  to  the 
climate  of  that  state,  after  one  or  two  years, 
than  if  they  were  born  on  the  spot.  And  if 
they  provide  themselves  with  the  same  com- 
fortable dwellings  and  clothing  they  have  en- 
joyed at  the  east,  the  risk  of  acclimating  is  so 
slight  as  not  for  an  instant  to  be  considered. 
But  more  of  this  in  its  place. 


NECESSARY  TO  SUCCESS.      145 

Neither  can  there  be  any  doubt,  that  with  a 
proper  prior  knowledge  of  the  country  and  its 
resources,  a  small  capital  to  commence  with, 
and  a  Yankee  resolution  to  persevere,  any  one 
may  eventually  succeed  here.  I  say  eventu- 
ally, for  one  of  the  principal  faults  of  opinion 
respecting  this  country  is,  that  every  one  who 
comes  out  here  will  become  rich  in  a  very 
short  time.  No  greater  mistake  exists.  Now 
and  then  a  lucky  speculator,  or  town-builder, 
has  made  his  thousands  by  the  turn  of  a  die, 
but  by  far  the  majority  of  immigrants  are  those 
who  go  on  to  their  farms,  or  work  at  their 
trades,  and  pass  whole  years  in  diligent  appli- 
cation before  they  find  themselves  possessed 
of  a  competency.  Their  riches  accumulate 
gradually  —  rapidly  compared  to  the  same 
causes  at  the  east  —  and  require  unremiting 
exertions.  Let  not  him  come  out  here  who 
proposes  and  expects  to  enrich  himself  in 
idleness. 

One  other  consideration.  At  the  west,  as 
at  the  east,  wealth  blesses  —  if  wealth  be 
proved  a  blessing  —  but  the  few.  No  com- 
munity exists  where  all  are  rich  alike,  and  the 
13 


146  BUT    PEW    WEALTHY. 

climate  of  Illinois  possesses  no  peculiar  magic 
to  alter  the  constitution  of  society.  Poor 
men  there  are,  and  ever  will  be,  here,  as  else- 
where —  men  who  have  either  no  faculty  or 
no  disposition  successfully  to  apply  them- 
selves to  the  business  they  undertake.  Hence 
there  will  ever  be  those  who  go  to  the  west 
with  high  hopes,  and  return  disappointed  and 
chagrined,  as  poor  as  they  went  and  as  they 
are  ever  doomed  to  be.  But  I  would  here 
say  that  this  country  affords  the  means  of  a 
livelihood  to  any  enterprising  young  man  dis- 
posed to  endure  the  sacrifice  required  of  him, 
and  willing  to  wait  the  due  time  of  success. 
He  can  hardly  plant  himself  amiss.  Whether 
at  the  south  or  north  or  in  the  centre  of  the 
state,  let  his  business  be  what  it  may,  he  can 
scarcely  fail  of  success,  if  he  keep  his  eyes 
open,  and  his  hands  occupied. 

I  have  taken  special  pains  to  gather  from 
various  section  of  the  state  and  from  intelli- 
gent, candid,  influential  individuals  such  hints 
as  I  thought  might  be  useful  to  such  of  my 
fellow  citizens  in  the  east  as  determine  to 
"  pitch  their  tent  "  in  the  new  world  I  have 


TOO  MUCH  PRAISE   OF  THE  WEST.      147 

recently  explored,  and  which  have  recom- 
mended themselves  to  my  own  judgment,  and 
I  have  given  them  with  no  little  diffidence  as 
they  so  evidently  clash  with  much  that  has 
passed  for  the  last  three  years  as  valuable  and 
correct.  The  truth  is,  in  the  slang  phrase- 
ology of  the  times,  the  tl  west,"  and  particu- 
lar portions  of  it  in  particular  have  been 
"  cracked  up  "  beyond  what  it  ever  was,  and 
most  false  impressions  given  of  Illinois,  espec- 
ially in  New  England.  This  course  has  been 
exceedingly  injudicious  and  injurious  to  the 
best  interest  of  the  whole  country.  Thousands 
on  reaching  the  State,  have  been  disappoint- 
ed, and  have  either  returned  in  a  state  of  com- 
plete disgust,  or  tarried  because  they  had  too 
much  pride  to  return.  I  could  particularize, 
were  it  not  invidious,  and  were  I  not  deterred 
by  a  disposition  to  do  no  injury  to  any  partic- 
ular place  or  places.  Perhaps  I  should  fail  of 
doing  justice  to  Illinois,  or  the  east,  did  I  not 
warn  the  latter  to  be  aware  how  they  place 
too  much  reliance  on  the  representations  of  a 
book  which  has  received  a  most  extensive  cir- 
culation, and  which  has  done  an  injury  to  im- 


i 


148  ILLINOIS  IN  1837—8. 

migration  in  the  end,  from  which  it  will  not 
soon  recover.  I  mean  a  book  bearing  on  its 
covers  the' imposing  title  of  "  ILLINOIS  IN 
1837 — 8."  It  is  full  of  exaggerated  state- 
ments, and  high-wrought  and  false-colored 
descriptions,  and  cannot  safely  be  relied  on  as 
a  text  book  or  gazetteer.  It  contains  some 
valuable  statistical  information,  and  a  few  val- 
uable hints  to  immigrants,  but  so  mixed  up 
with  false  statements,  and  exaggerated  des- 
criptions as  not  to  be  trusted  by  an  inexperi- 
enced hand.  I  could  instance  as  a  specimen 
of  its  incorrectness,  the  account  of  one  river 
town,  which  is  described  as  having,  among 
other  things,  4  houses  of  public  worship,  with 
settled  ministers,  and  an  academy,  with  about 
2000  inhabitants  ;  whereas,  there  is  not  one 
meeting-house  or  minister,  and  nothing  but  an 
ordinary  school,  with  only  about  300  inhabi- 
tants. I  allude  to  this  as  a  specimen,  merely 
to  show  that  it  is  a  book  not  to  be  trusted. 
And  I  do  riot  set  up  myself  as  censor,  or  as 
being  better  able  to  judge,  than  the  compilers 
of  this  book  ;  but  only  as  more  impartial  and 
unprejudiced,  and  as  being  far  more  likely  to 


ADVICE.  149 

give  an  uninfluenced  opinion,  than  one  having 
large  interests  in  the  western  lands. 

But  to  the  advice.  And  first,  when  any 
one  has  made  up  his  mind  to  remove  to  the 
West,  let  him  be  careful  and  not  cherish  too 
great  expectations.  Let  him  recollect  that 
the  only  safe  path  to  competency,  is  a  labori- 
ous one,  and  that  in  every  clime  it  has  its 
cares,  losses  and  disappointments.  Whatever 
be  his  business,  he  must  be  devoted  to  it  and 
be  content  with  a  moderate  accumulation  of 
profits.  The  labors  of  the  merchant,  the  phy- 
sician, and  the  mechanic,  are  as  arduous  in 
Illinois  —  nay  more  so — -as  in  New  England. 
And  so  are  those  of  the  husbandman,  for  the 
first  three  years,  and  after  that  his  task  will  be 
much  lighter  than  that  of  his  brother  farmers 
who  till  the  reluctant  soil  east  of  the  Allegha- 
nies.  Besides,  he  will  be  a  singular  Yankee, 
if  he  do  not  suffer  dreadfully,  for  the  first  six 
months  —  perhaps  for  a  year  —  that  most  un- 
comfortable of  all  diseases,  home-sickness.  He 
will  meet  with  many  deprivations,  such  as  want 
of  society,  uncomfortable  houses,  coarseness 
of  provisions,  want  of  sympathy,  languor,  occa- 


150  HEART    SICKNESS. 

sioned  by  the  process  of  acclimation,  remote- 
ness from  a  post  office  and  store,  and  the  en- 
tire absence  of  many  of  the  little  comforts 
which  belong  to  every  decent  New  England 
home  —  all  this  and  more  if  he  goes  into  a  new 
place.  And  all  this  is  less  endurable  by  the 
female  immigrant,  because  her  labors  and  cares 
are  increased,  and  she  has  less  abroad  to  call 
off  her  thoughts  from  the  ever  present  causes 
of  her  dissatisfaction.  These  are  some  of  the 
evils,  stated  without  aggravation,  which  await 
the  new  settler  in  the  new  world,  and  which 
sometimes  make  the  heart  sick,  and  cause  it 
sigh  for  the  land  of  its  early  years.  But  all 
this  can  be  endured,  and  it  seldom  continues 
more  than  a  halfyear  —  it  does  in  a  few  ca- 
ses. One  soon  gets  accustomed  to  this  life, 
and  very  generally  I  have  found  after  that  time 
a  stronger  attachment  for  the  land  of  their  adop- 
tion had  supplanted  that  of  their  birth.  In  nine 
cases  out  of  ten,  no  persuasions  would  induce 
the  immigrant  to  return,  and  in  equal  propor- 
tion those  who  have  returned  at  all,  have  re- 
turned within  the  first  year.  Let  not  him, 
therefore,  who  has  not  philosophy  sufficient  to 


WHAT  TO   CARRY  WEST.  151 

undergo  with  a  cheerful  spirit,  one  year's  en- 
durance of  home-sickness,  and  all  the  sacrifices 
and  discomforts  of  a  cabin  life  in  a  new  coun- 
try, venture  on  the  experiment  —  he  will  make 
but  a  poor  pioneer,  and  will  never  "  make  his 
way"  at  the  west.  Again,  if  he  has  decided 
to  come,  let  him  seek  the  advice  of  some  one 
he  can  confide  in,  and  whose  knowledge  of 
the  country  will  constitute  him  a  good  advi- 
ser, and  then  let  him  go  with  all  his  household 
stuff  and  family,  with  the  determination  of  stay- 
ing and  liking.  Let  him  take  with  him  as  few 
articles  of  furniture  as  he  can  possibly  get 
along  with  —  and  he  will  not  want  many  un- 
less he  is  going  to  a  large  town  —  and  these 
cheap  and  substantial.  Let  him  take  all  the 
necessary  hollow  ware,  glass  ware,  crockery, 
etc.,  well  packed  in  barrels,  or  hogsheads,  as 
they  will  be  far  less  likely  to  be  broken,  than 
in  crates  or  boxes.  Likewise  his  bedding, 
and  a  liberal  stock  of  clothing  of  all  descrip- 
tions, as  all  these  are  to  be  obtained  at  a  much 
cheaper  rate  and  of  a  better  quality  than  where 
he  is  going.  But  all  bulky  and  heavy  furni- 
ture, such  as  bedsteads,  bureaus,  chairs,  etc., 


152  GENERAL    DIRECTIONS. 

had  better  be  procured  in  some  western  city 
or  town  near  his  destined  location.  Above 
all,  let  him  furnish  himself  with  a  choice  li- 
brary, and  subscribe  for  a  well  conducted  fam- 
ily newspaper,  published  near  the  spot  of  his 
late  residence.  There  is  no  imagining  how 
many  weary  and  desolate  hours  may  by  these 
trifling  provisions  be  lightened  and  relieved. 
I  would  add  here,  that  he  ought  to  furnish 
himself  with  a  duplicate  set  of  tools  necessary 
to  carry  on  his  profession,  as  they  are  of  a 
poor  quality  generally,  at  the  west,  and  bear  an 
exorbitant  price.  This  hint  will  be  as  valuable 
to  the  farmer  as  the  mechanic.  He  will  find  it 
the  best  and  most  economical  method  to  send 
his  bulky  and  heavy  articles  by  water,  via  New 
Orleans,  shipped  at  the  nearest  port,and  carefully 
marked  and  directed  to  be  forwarded  by  some 
forwarding  house  in  that  city  to  any  spot  near  his 
proposed  residence.  His  clothing,  packed 
closely  in  tight  trunks  should  be  taken  with  him, 
although  they  may  cost  a  trifle  as  "  extra  bag- 
gage." Above  all  let  him  not  forget  to  insure 
his  property,  and  procure  a  life-preserver  for 
every  member  of  his  family.  Hundreds  of  lives 


VIEWING    THE    LAND.  153 

would  be  annually  saved  by  this  trifling  but  in- 
valuable precaution. 

When  he  reaches  a  comfortable  spot  near 
the  place  of  his  intended  location,  let  him 
leave  his  family,  go  and  spy  out  the  land,  for 
it  will  not  do  to  trust  exclusively  to  the  opin- 
ion of  even  a  friend.  And  this  suggests  anoth- 
er important  hint  which  I  will  here  throw  out : 
which  is,  that  he  do  not  expend  too  much  time 
in  selecting  a  spot. 

Many  whogo  to  the  west,  sadly  miss  it, 
in  spending  too  much  time  in  "  viewing  the 
country,"  as  it  is  called.  The  consequence 
often  is,  that  they  become  dissatisfied,  when 
they  do  fix  themselves,  and  in  every  difficul- 
ty they  recur  to  other  places  they  have  seen, 
and  imagine  they  would  be  better  off  there 
than  where  they  are.  This  begets  restless- 
ness, which  puts  an  irrevocable  veto  on  pros- 
perity and  happiness.  I  have  been  told  that 
this  is  a  trait  in  many  of  our  New  England 
men,  and  that  the  consequence  is,  they  are 
shifting  from  pillar  to  post,  without  profiting 
themselves,  or  gaining  the  respect  of  those 
around  them. 


154          SEEK    A    HEALTHY    LOCATION. 

There  are  a  few  things  essential  in  select- 
ing a  place  of  residence  ;  the  rest  can  be  made 
what  one  wishes  it.  This  applies  particularly 
to  the  immigrant  farmer  —  as  the  professional 
man  and  mechanic  will  go  where  they  can  ob- 
tain the  best  business  —  health  or  no  health, 
comfort  or  discomfort.  The  first  of  all  is,  let 
the  choice  of  a  home  fall  upon  a  healthy  spot. 
No  matter  whatever  other  advantages  may  be- 
long to  the  farm,  if  it  be  in  a  sickly  place,  woe 
to  the  man  who  planteth  himself  there.  A 
mechanic  or  professional  man  may  place  his 
family  in  a  healthy  situation,  while  he  is  ex- 
posed, and  sometimes  can  hie  away  from  the 
pestiferous  atmosphere,  and  breathe  a  pure  and 
invigorating  air.  Not  so  the  farmer.  He  and  his 
are  tied  down  to  the  spot,  and  cannot  break  away 
therefrom  sufficiently  often  to  shake  off  the  in- 
fluence of  disease  and  death.  And  he  must 
not  trust  to  the  word  of  residents  —  they  are 
too  much  attached  to  their  own  neighborhood 
and  too  desirous  to  increase  it,  to  allow  them 
to  give  an  unbiased  opinion,  however  desirous 
they  may  be  to  do  so.  As  a  general  rule,  a 
situation  near  the  rivers  —  if  indeed  1  except 


BE    MODEST.  156 

. 

Rock  river,  its  tributaries,  and  the  Mississip- 
pi above  the  mouth  of  Rock  river  —  is  un- 
healthy, although  far  less  so  than  is  generally 
supposed  at  the  east.  An  elevated,  open  sit- 
uation, admitting  of  a  free  current  of  air,  and 
sheltered  from  the  north  blasts  of  winter  by  a 
belt  of  forest,  is  the  most  desirable  location 
for  a  farm,  and  is  usually  healthy.  Beware  of 
low,  flat,  wet  prairies  ;  one  might  as  well  be 
in  the  American  Bottom.  When  he  has  found 
such  a  place,  he  has  but  one  more  inquiry  to 
make.  Is  it  conveniently  near  a  good  market  ? 
And  when  these  two  things  are  gained,  let  him 
not  hesitate  to  fix  himself.  The  soil  is  good 
enough  any  where,  and  he  will  be  about  as 
likely  to  succeed  in  one  place  as  another.  I 
would,  however,  advise  a  northern  New  Eng- 
lander  not  to  pitch  upon  a  location  too  far 
south,  as  the  trial  of  acclimation  must  neces- 
sarily be  severe. 

Oncejnore.  Too  many  of  our  young  men, 
on  coming  into  Illinois,  suppose  that  the  su- 
perior advantages  of  education  and  society, 
which  they  have  enjoyed  at  the  East,  give 
them  a  right  to  assume  a  superiority  (see  my 


156  TALENT    RESPECTED. 

chapter  on  "  Literature,  etc.")  over  those 
among  whom  their  lot  is  cast.  Let  me 
warn  every  one  going  west,  to  be  on  his 
guard  in  this  respect.  Talent  and  education 
are  respected  there,  but  an  ostentatious  and  in- 
vidious display  of  them,  will  insure  the  deep- 
est contempt,  and  sink  him  who  is  guilty  of  it 
to  the  base  level  he  deserves.  The  original 
population  in  Illinois  is  made  up  by  immi- 
grants from  Kentucky,  Virginia,  and  the  Ca- 
rolinas,  and  they  have  brought  all  their  high- 
souled  feelings  with  them.  A  man  of  modest 
worth  is  sure  to  meet  with  deserved  respect 
and  confidence  —  a  blusterer  and  pompous  fel- 
low sinks  into  immediate  and  deserved  insig- 
nificance. When  a  young  man  has  determin- 
ed to  plant  himself  in  the  west,  let  him  put 
on  no  airs,  let  him  mingle  freely  and  familiar- 
ly with  his  neighbors,  assuming  no  superior- 
ity, and  he  will  find  them  ready  to  serve  him 
to  any  extent  with  their  voice,  their  purse, 
and  their  lives  ;  and  being  shrewd  to  discover 
merit,  will  draw  it  out  and  reward  it.  I  would 
indeed  warn  him  against  imbibing  the  —  it 
must  be  confessed  —  too  slovenlyjspirit  of  the 


SMALL  CHANGE  AND  SMALL  MEN.   157 

west  in  the  management  of  their  business  ; 
let  him  adhere  to  the  economical,  industrious 
habits   to   which  he  has  been  trained  —  they 
are  as  invaluable  here,  as  anywhere  —  but  let 
him  mingle  freely  and  unsuspiciously  with  his 
neighbors,  and  while  he  sinks  his  manners  to 
their  level,  strive  to  bring  up  their  habits,  by 
a  successful  example,  to  the  New  England 
standard.     Still  once  more.     In  the  land  of 
the  puritans,  where  every  cent  of  a  livelihood 
is  wrung  out  of  the  flinty  soil  by  the  sweat  of 
the  brow,  the  shrewdest  calculation  is  neces- 
sary to  obtain  a  competence,   and  a  cent  as- 
sumes an  importance  in  business  transactions, 
which  astonishes  a  western  and  southern  man. 
Every  thing  here  is  conducted  on  an  enlarged 
scale.     In  times  of  prosperity,  money  flows 
freely,  and  no  man,  be  he  in  ever  so  moderate 
circumstances,  stickles  for  a  trifle  of  change 
in  a  bargain.       It   is   considered    decidedly 
mean.     In  the  same  spirit,  nothing  less  than  a 
fourpence  ha'penny  is  in  use,   as  change  — 
called  in  the  language  of  the  country  a  "  pic- 
ayune,"  and  generally  abbreviated  to   "pic." 
Thus,  "  one  pic,"  "  two  pics,"  etc.     The 
14 


158  MONEY    MATTERS. 

next  smallest  piece  is  a  "  bit"  Any  piece 
of  silver  larger  than  a  "pic,"  and  smaller  than 
a  quarter  dollar,  is  a  "  bit,"  and  passes  at  the 
value  of  eight  to  the  dollar,  or  twelve  and  a 
half  cents.  Dimes  are  called  "  short  bits," 
but  pass  at  the  same  value  of  a  "  long  bit,"  or 
twelve  and  a  half  cents  ;  and  so  a  half  dime 
for  a  "  picayune."  It  seemed  passing  strange 
to  me,  at  first,  and  very  much  like  a  species 
of  swindling,  when,  having  purchased  nine- 
pence  worth  of  any  thing,  to  receive  in  change 
for  a  dollar,  but  seven  dimes  —  seventy  cents, 
—  thus  making  —  on  board  the  boats  —  thirty 
cents  for  a  tumbler  of  small  beer  !  But  I  was 
too  wise  to  demur,  and  I  soon  found  that  my 
dime  would  purchase  me  as  much  of  any  good 
thing  as  a  "long  bit." 

I  mention  these  things  to  guard  those  who 
propose  going  west,  against  committing  them- 
selves by  haggling  for  a  few  cents  in  a  bargain. 
A  mean,  niggardly  —  or  as  it  is  here  emphati- 
cally called,  a  "picayune"  disposition,  "damns 
its  possessor  to  everlasting  fame."  Nothing  is 
lost  by  adopting  the  enlarged  spirit  of  the  west, 
and  in  the  end  every  thing  gained. 


IMPROVED    FARMS.  159 

It  would  be  my  advice  to  a  man  of  slender 
capital,  who  intends  to  pursue  agriculture,  to 
purchase  a  farm  on  which  some  u  improve- 
ments "  have  been  made.  If  he  goes  out  into 
a  new  spot,  he  may  get  the  land  much  cheap- 
er, it  is  true,  but  he  will  find  that  before  he 
gets  his  house  built,  his  land  ploughed  and  fen- 
ced, his  farm  will  cost  him  nearly  as  much  as 
he  can  (often)  purchase  one  for,  with  the  like 
advantages.  It  will  take  two  yeaFs  to  accom- 
plish it.  This  time  may  be  saved,  and  the 
crops  from  the  improved  farms  will  often  pay 
its  whole  cost  in  one  year,  generally  in  two  or 
three  at  farthest.  Such  farms  may  be  occa- 
sionally found  in  market,  the  occupants  hav- 
ing been  seized  with  a  desire  to  go  still  far- 
ther west,  or  for  some  other  reason  not  mili- 
tating against  the  land  or  location. 

But  if  he  go  on  to  new  ground,  he  can,  by 
industry  and  perseverance,  in  three  years  have 
every  comfort  and  even  luxury  the  climate  can 
afford,  to  the  end  of  which  I  will  lend  him  a 
little  aid  with  my  advice. 

His  first  object  will  be  to  put  himself  up  a 
shelter.  If  he  be  in  the  neighborhood  of  a 


160      FRAME   HOUSES  AND  LOG  CABINS. 

sawmill,  and  especially  if  he  be  remote  from 
timber,  let  him  put  up  a  "  frame  house,"  in 
preference  to  a  u  log  cabin."  The  expense 
of  the  former  will  be  but  a  trifle  more,  and  has 
every  advantage  over  the  latter.  Besides,  in 
a  short  time,  the  timber  wasted  in  a  log  house, 
will,  if  sawed  into  lumber  and  sold,  more  than 
pay  the  difference  of  expense.  But  a  house 
he  must  have,  and  if  lumber  is  not  to  be  had, 
he  must  content  himself  with  a  cabin.  And 
this  he  can  make  quite  comfortable,  by  filling 
the  interstices  of  the  logs  with  chinks  of  wood 
plastered  outside  and  inside  with  clay  or  mud, 
after  the  fashion  of  the  country. 

His  next  object  will  be  to  get  a  patch  of 
land  broken  up,  ready  for  seed.  The  true 
time  for  breaking  the  prairie  is  from  the  mid- 
dle of  May  to  the  last  of  July.  If  it  be  well 
broken,  and  laid  even,  and  be  permitted  to  lie 
unmolested  until  the  succeeding  spring,  the 
ground  will  be  exceedingly  friable  and  mel- 
low, and  the  sod  will  have  thoroughly  rotted. 
Whereas,  if  it  be  broken  in  the  autumn,  after 
the  grass  is  ripe,  or  if  it  be  disturbed  after 
being  turned  over,  the  sod  will  be  exceeding- 


PLANTING    SOD    CORN.  161 

ly  tough  and  troublesome  for  years  after.  So 
that  nothing  will  be  gained  by  ploughing  the 
autumn  before. 

After  the  ground  is  broken  in  the  spring, 
corn,  oats  and  spring  wheat  and  rye,  may  be 
sown  upon  the  surface  with  a  fair  prospect  of 
a  good  crop,  unless  the  season  should  chance 
to  be  an  exceedingly  dry  one.  An  average 
crop  of  "  sod  corn,"  as  it  is  called,  is  about 
40  bushels  to  the  acre  ;  and  of  oats  40,  and 
of  wheat  or  rye  30  to  35  bushels.  If  it  should 
*be  a  dry  season,  the  crop  will  be  considerably 
less.  The  manner  of  planting  u  sod  corn  " 
is  usually  to  drop  the  seed  while  ploughing,  into 
every  third  furrow.  A  better  way  is  to  use 
an  axe  or  some  other  such  instrument,  after 
the  ground  is  turned,  by  which  an  aperture  is 
made  in  the  sod,  and  not  through  it.  Into 
this  drop  the  seed,  knock  a  little  soil  into  it, 
and  the  work  is  done.  Nothing  more  is  re- 
quired until  it  is  fit  for  harvesting,  as  the  sod, 
for  reasons  above  stated,  must  not  be  disturb- 
ed. Very  few  weeds  will  start  the  first  year, 
and  no  grass,  if  the  ground  be  well  ploughed. 
I  have  known  fifty  acres  treated  in  this  way, 
14* 


162  BARNS  AND  GRANARIES, 

to  yield  fortyfive  bushels,  on  an  average,  to  the 
acre,  and  first  rate  corn. 

It  requires  four  yokes  of  oxen  to  break  up 
the  prairie,  and  costs  about  three  dollars  per 
acre.  After  the  first  year,  a  stout  horse  will 
do  the  ploughing. 

When  the  settler  has  got  in  his  seed  and 
fenced  it,  let  his  attention  be  given  to  the  erec- 
tion of  a  barn  and  granary.  He  can  get  along 
without  them  in  the  southern  and  middle  parts 
of  Illinois  —  some  do  get  along  thus  in  the 
northern  part,  but  miserably  —  but  he  will  find 
it  much  to  his  advantage  to  have  a  good  barn 
and  granary.  If  he  have  a  tolerable  crop,  and 
a  fair  amount  of  stock,  he  will  find  his  full  pay 
for  his  labor,  in  one  or  two  years.  The  mice, 
moles,  squirrels,  gophars,  and  other  vermin 
will  eat  and  spoil  much  of  his  out-door-stack- 
ed crop,  and  his  cattle  will  come  out  in  the 
spring  stinted  and  poor,  and  be  constantly  de- 
preciating in  size  and  quality  from  year  to 
year. 

I  need  not  say  here  that  the  labors  devolv- 
ing on  a  new  settler  are  arduous  and  often  dis- 
heartening. Work  and  but  little  apparent  re- 


SELECT  GOOD  STOCK.        163 

ward,  are  the  portion  of  the  first  year.  But 
he  will  find  himself  at  the  harvest  of  the  sec- 
ond, if  he  be  but  industrious,  possessed  of  a 
comfortable  home  and  enough  to  eat  and  drink, 
and  from  this  time  he  may  lay  aside  a  snug 
sum  every  year,  from  the  excess  of  his  crops 
and  stock  beyond  his  own  consumption. 

It  would  be  well  to  have  a  few  sheep  of  the 
best  breed.  They  find  the  finest  pasturage  in 
this  country,  and  if  protected  from  the  attacks 
of  the  wolves,  will  be  found  extremely  ser- 
viceable, as  woollens  of  all  kinds  bear  an  ex- 
ceedingly high  price.  Sheep  ought  to  be  fol- 
ded every  night,  and  guarded  through  the  day 
by  a  well  trained  dog.  They  are  easily  taught, 
and  make  a  very  faithful  shepherd. 

One  more  hint  I  would  here  throw  out.  In 
stocking  your  farm  with  swine  —  a  very  im- 
portant consideration  at  the  west  —  be  careful 
to  select  a  fine  and  approved  breed.  If  the 
settler  purchase  the  long-snouted,  long-legged, 
long-eared,  and  lank-sided  species,  which  too 
much  abound,  he  will  sadly  miss  the  figure. 
Such  he  can  never  fatten  —  they  are  like  Jo- 
seph's lean  kine  —  ever  eating  and  ever  poor. 


164       BEST  SEASON  FOR  IMMIGRATION. 

In  conclusion,  I  would  say,  that  it  is  my 
firm  conviction  that  any  young  man  who  is 
about  commencing  life  as  a  farmer,  or  any  el- 
derly man  who  has  sons  whom  he  wishes  to 
educate  to  this  honorable  branch  of  industry  — 
that  such,  if  they  have  a  small  capital,  enough 
to  pay  for  their  land,  defray  the  expenses  of 
going  out,  and  to  obtain  farming  tools,  and  a 
small  stock,  can  do  no  better  than  go  imme- 
diately to  the  west. 

With  regard  to  the  best  season  for  a  far- 
mer to  go  out,  there  are  various  opinions. — 
If  he  can  go  out  in  the  spring,  and  early  enough 
to  get  in  a  crop,  he  can  get  along  through  the 
summer,  and  have  leisure  ere  winter  approach- 
es, to  put  up  the  necessary  buildings  on  his 
land,  and  find  himself  quite  comfortable,  but  he 
will  have  to  work  very  hard.  If,  on  the  oth- 
er hand,  he  go  out  in  the  autumn,  he  can  be 
getting  up  his  house,  preparing  his  fencing 
material,  etc.  etc.,  and  be  ready  to  plough  and 
plant  when  the  spring  opens.  He  ought  to  go 
out  early  in  September,  and  earlier,  if  he  can. 
For  routes,  etc.,  I  refer  the  reader  to  the  Ap- 
pendix. 


WESTERN    FEVER.  165 


CHAPTER     XII. 

Western  Fever— Rock  River— Fish — Exploring  Committee 
— Starting — A  new  mode  of  travelling— Incidents— How 
to  make  a  city— Como.  4 

A  NEW-ENGLAND-MAN  can  have  but  a 
faint  conception  of  the  rage  existing  at  the 
west  for  "  improving"  the  country,  as  it  is 
significantly  called.  New  farms,  new  towns, 
new  railroads  and  new  canals,  are  continually 
projecting,  and  you  cannot  fall  upon  a  knot  of 
a  half  dozen  persons  anywhere,  but  the  burden 
of  their  conversation  is  of  some  new  project 
or  other.  Indeed  the  whole  conversation  at 
the  west  is  racy — it  smacks  of  the  soil. 
And  as,  when  the  western  fever  rages  at  the 
east,  it  receives  its  name  from  the  point  of 
country  to  which  it  tends,  as  the  Ohio  fever, 
the  Illinois,  or  Michigan,  or  Wisconsin  fevers, 
— so  here  in  Illinois,  there  are  various  por- 
tions of-  the  state  which  have  drawn  the 
attention  of  immigrants  and  speculators.  Rock 
River  is  the  present  attraction.  Thither  are 
flocking  such  hosts  of  immigrants,  as  must 


166  ROCK    RIVER. 

soon  densely  people  the  wild  and  beautiful 
tracts  of  country  bordering  that  stream. 

Rock  river. rises  in  Wisconsin  territory, 
about  40°  30'  north,  immediately  southwest  of 
Winnebago  Lake,  and  after  a  very  sinuous 
course  of  three  hundred  miles — two  hundred  of 
which  is  in  Illinois,  in  nearly  a  south-westerly 
direction — it  enters  the  Mississippi  river  in 
latitude  about  41°  30'  north.  This  stream, 
with  the  exception  of  one  or  two  obstructions, 
in  the  shape  of  rapid>,  is  navigable  for  nearly 
two  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth.  One  of 
these  rapids  lies  about  three  miles  from  its 
mouth,  and  on  which  government  is  now  ex- 
pending a  liberal  sum  of  money.  When  this 
obstacle  shall  have  been  removed,  as  it  will 
be  in  one  or  two  years,  the  river  will  be 
navigable  for  steamboats  of  light  draught,  at 
any  stage  of  water,  to  the  upper  rapids  ; 
about  ninetyfive  miles  from  its  mouth  by  the 
river's  course,  although  but  about  fifty  by 
land. 

The.  country  bordering  on  this  stream,  is 
allowed,  on  all  hands,  to  be  one  of  the  finest 
and  most  fertile  in  the  whole  west,  as  well  as 


SPRINGS— FISH.  167 

possessing  the  most  salubrious  climate.  It  is 
principally  open,  high,  undulating  prairie, 
abounding  with  fine  springs  o-f  the  purest 
water,  although  rather  sparsely  wooded.  The 
river  is  liberally  fed  with  large  rushing  tribu- 
taries, which  flow  into  it  at  convenient  dis- 
tances for  the  hydraulic  purposes  of  the 
country.  Besides  these,  almost  every  mile 
in  its  course,  it  is  cooled  by  most  abundant 
springs,  which  gush  from  its  banks  in  a  pleni- 
tude which  surprises  the  observer.  The 
current  is  very  rapid,  and  the  waters  clear  as 
chrystal.  It  is  a  sight  to  make  one  leap  with 
delight,  as  he  gazes  for  the  first  time  on  this 
beautiful  stream.  Its  wild  rush  of  waters, 
tumbling,  foaming,  sparkling,  as  it  passes  over 
its  rocky  bed,  its  clear,  bright  waves  reflecting 
the  minutest  object  that  lies  upon  its  bottom, 
and  ploughed  by  countless  shoals  of  pike, 
catfish,*  redhorse  or  perch,  each  weighing 
from  three  to  ten  pounds,  not  to  speak  of 
lesser  fry, — all  this  is  a  sight  to  gladden  the 

*  The  catfish  sometimes  weighs  150  Ibs. 


168  EXPLORING    COMMITTEE. 

eye,  and  give  a  most  vivid  idea  of  health  and 
comfort. 

It  is  but  a  few  years  since  this  whole  tract 
was  the 'possession  of  the  red  man.  It  is  al- 
ready occupied  by  one  of  the  most  thriving 
and  enterprising  communities  in  the  whole 
country,  so  that  it  is  next  to  impossible  to 
obtain  land  near  the  river,  without  having  it 
second-handed. 

It  was  to  this  land  of  promise  my  attention 
was  turned,  in  company  with  some  half  dozen 
others,  with  a  view  to  a  permanent  residence. 
We  had  taken  the  precautionary  step  to  send 
on  an  exploring  committee,  who  had  se- 
lected a  site,  and  made  a  most  favorable 
report  ;  all  which  decided  us  to  take  immedi- 
ate measures  to  establish  ourselves  in  our 
claims.*  Accordingly  we  hired  a  man  to 
take  us  the  whole  distance  to  and  from  the 
land  of  promise,  in  a  two  horse  wagon, — a 
large,  coarse,  lumbering  box,  seated  directly 
on  the  axle,  with  no  kind  of  springs  to  our 

*  The  reader  will  understand  this  expression,  by  refering 
lo  my  Chapter  on  the  subject  of  Claims,  Preemption, 
&c. 


STARTING?.  169 

seats,  and  a  heavy  piece  of  canvass  over  our 
heads  painted  black,  so  as  to  absorb  and 
transfer  to  those  who  sweltered  beneath  it, 
the  scorching  rays  of  an  almost  vertical  sun. 

We  started  from  T on  Tuesday,  July 

17,  (1838),  five  in  number,  beside  our  Dutch 
Jehu,  in  fine  spirits,  full  of  health  and  hope. 
There  were  two  engineers  among  our  number, 
and  we  were  liberally  supplied  with  instru- 
ments suitable  to  survey  and  lay  out  our  lands. 
When  we  were  at  last  mounted  to  our  seats — - 
a  task  much  less  easily  imagined  than  per- 
formed, let  me  assure  my  reader,  as  he  might 
be  convinced  by  clambering  up  once  and  down 
again,  as  we  had  to  do,  some  hundreds  of 
times  on  our  journey, — I  found  mine  allotted 
on  the  luggage,  and  which  I  discovered  to  be 
anything  but  comfortable,  as  soon  as  our 
heavy  omnibus  rattled  along  its  way.  It  was 
just  such  a  day  as  was  best  calculated  to  make 
our  ride  an  uncomfortable  one.  The  road 
was  dry  and  dusty,  and  the  wind  just  strong 
enough  on  our  larboard  quarter,  as  a  sailor 
would  say,  to  keep  us  in  the  cloud  of  dust  we 
raised.  Add  to  this  that  the  mercury  rose  in 
15 


170  PEORIA    LAKE. 

the  shade  to  103°  of  Fahrenheit — not  forget- 
ting our  springless  seats, — and  some  idea  may 
be  had  of  our  discomforts.  Nevertheless  we 
contrived  to  amuse  ourselves,  and  as  we  were 
determined  to  be  happy,  we  made  the  best  of 
it,  and  passed  the  day  cheerfully. 

Our  route  this  day  lay  along  the  western 
bank  of  the  Illinois  river.  From  Peoria,  the 
river,  for  several  miles  above,  expands  to  a 
lake  of  from  one  to  three  miles  in  width  ;  and 
the  current 'is  so  sluggish  as  scarcely  to  be 
perceptible.  This  lake  is  lined  on  either  side 
by  heavy  bottoms,  densely  timbered,  and  is  as 
yet  unoccupied,  save  in  a  very  few  places  by 
settlers.  It  is  a  beautiful  spot  to  look  upon, 
in  its  primitive  and  unbroken  wildness,  but  the 
idea  of  disease  and  death  lurking  in  every 
ripple  and  concealed  beneath  every  leaf,  drove 
from  my  mind  all  idea  of  beauty,  and  con- 
verted the  whole  into  one  vast  cemetery, 
beautiful  in  its  external  show,  but  the  reposi- 
itory  of  dead  men's  bones.  How  anybody 
can  be  persuaded  to  reside  here,  is  to  me  a 
mystery.  We  were  hailed  by  a  feeble  voice, 
as  we  passed  a  cabin  on  the  banks  of  this  lake, 


BAD    ROADS.  171 

requesting  us  to  stop.  It  came  from  a  pale, 
emaciated  woman,  who  told  us  she  was  the 
only  well  person  in  the  family,  that  they 
were  uall  down  with  the  fever."  She  wished 
us  to  call  on  the  doctor  and  send  him  to  their 
aid,  as  she  could  not  leave  the  sick  ones  long 
enough  to  go  herself. 

Our  road  through  the  timber  was  exceed- 
ingly rough  and  tiresome.  Road  it  ought  not 
to  be  called,  track  is  a  fitter  name.  Not  a 
tree  had  been  fallen,  and  every  one  went 
hither  and  thither  among  the  trees,  in  search 
of  a  better  path,  as  his  judgment  dictated  or 
his  horse  inclined.  Large  and  deep  holes, 
still  filled  with  water,  whose  surface  was 
thickly  coated  with  green  slime,  continually 
obstructed  our  way.  Into  these  were  we  oc- 
casionally obliged  to  plunge,  much  to  our  own 
annoyance,  and  that  of  our  poor  animals,  who 
were  ready  to  sink  under  the  intense  heat. 
In  the  middle  of  our  afternoon's  route,  we 
drew  up  on  the  banks  of  the  lake  and  re- 
freshed ourselves  and  our  horses  at  a  cool  and 
limpid  spring,  which  some  thoughtful  person 
had  excavated  in  the  sandy  shore.  We 


172  NORTHAMPTON. 

reached  a  wild  and  broken  spot  sometime 
before  sunset,  having  travelled  about  thirtyfive 
miles.  There  was  one  small  but  neat  house, 
whose  sign,  fantastically  painted,  told  us  was 
an  inn,  and  one  other  building,  apparently- 
intended  for  a  store,  but  as  yet  unfinished  and 
unoccupied. 

I  have  seen  no  spot  in  Illinois  having  so 
many  natural  features  of  New  England  char- 
acter, and,  as  we  were  all  Yankees,  the  sight 
was  naturally  enough  refreshing.  This  pic- 
turesque spot,  we  learned  to  our  surprise,  was 
a  regularly  laid  out  town,  bearing  the  imposing 
cognomen  of  Northampton.  The  house  was 
kept,  at  that  time,  by  a  Mr  Hamblin,  whose 
kind  attentions  soon  obliterated  the  remem- 
brance of  our  toilsome  ride. 

Unrefreshed  by  a  sleepless  night,  we  re- 
sumed our  hard  and  springless  seats  in  our  un- 
comfortable vehicle,  early  the  next  morning,  and 
after  a  ride  of  about  six  miles  through  a  beau- 
tiful country  of  open  woodland,  everywhere 
changing  from  beauty  to  beauty,  we  reached 
the  borders  of  a  vast  prairie,  over  which  we 
were  to  make  our  way,  for  fifteen  weary  miles, 


PRAIRIES.  173 

without  encountering  any  human  habitation. 
Having  taken  a  cooling  draught  from  a  spring 
near  at  hand,  we  launched  upon  this  land-sea. 
Our  road  was  a  good  one,  but  the  burning 
rays  of  the  sun,  uninterrupted  by  a  single 
shade,  made  our  lot  uncomfortable  in  the  ex- 
treme. There  is  something  very  like  being  at 
sea  in  the  sensations  one  feels  in  the  midst  of 
these  vast  prairies.  Not  a  tree  or  shrub  dis- 
turbs the  unbroken  waste  of  green.  Grass , 
grass,  grass,  on  every  hand,  interspersed  only 
with  flowers  and  tall  weeds.  I  have  said 
elsewhere,  that  the  idea  cherished  at  the  east, 
that  these  prairies  are  an  unbroken  level,  is  a 
mistaken  one.  Were  it  so,  they  would  ne- 
cessarily become  either  lakes,  or  impassable 
swamps.  They  are  completely  broken  up 
into  hill  and  dale — on  a  miniature  scale,  it  is 
true, — but  nevertheless  of  sufficient  altitude 
and  depression  to  give  a  great  variety  to  trav- 
elling, and  sometimes  to  form  tedious,  and 
even  dangerous,  ascents  and  descents  in  the 
road.  Sometimes  these  ascents  are  of  a  mile 
in  length.  Between  all  these  ridges,  water 
may  be  found,  and  generally  running  streams, 
15* 


174  PRAIRIE    GRASS. 

though  obscured  by  the  rank  growth  of  grass. 
These  sloughs,  or  "  sloos,"  in  the  language  of 
the  place,  are  generally  muddy,  and,  in  wet 
seasons,  exceeding  bad  in  crossing  ;  as  but 
very  few,  and  those  only  which  are  otherwise 
impassable,  are  bridged.  They  serve,  how- 
ever, to  form  an  agreeable  variety  to  the 
traveller,  and  a  comfortable  retreat  from  the 
fierce  blasts  of  winter  to  the  wild  beasts  that 
range  these  boundless  fields.  Besides  which, 
they  afford  constant  water  to  the  herds  which 
graze  there,  and  springs  beside  which  the 
benighted  traveller  may  encamp  with  comfort 
and  safety.  The  grass  in  these  ravines,  grows 
to  a  great  height.  It  is  coarse,  and  unfit  for 
feeding.  While  the  traveller  is  passing 
through  them,  he  can  see  but  little  farther 
than  a  sailor  from  the  "  trough  of  the  sea," 
and  the  situation  is  not  wholly  dissimilar  ; 
but  when  he  reaches  the  height  of  the  mound 
above  him,  his  vision  is  often  unlimited  save 
by  the  horizon. 

About  midway  in  this  prairie,  we  encoun- 
tered a  log  cabin,  which  had  been  erected 
there  for  the  accommodation  of  travellers  ;  in 


175 


one  word,  a  tavern.  But  it  was  now  aban- 
doned, the  occupant  finding  but  poor  encour- 
agement. It  must  have  been  a  most  uncom- 
fortable residence,  with  not  a  tree  within  ten 
miles,  and  neighbors  equally  as  remote. 

As  it  is,  it  serves  admirably  for  a  shelter  to 
an  immigrating  family  which  chances  to  be 
overtaken  by  a  storm — a  not  uncommon  cir- 
cumstance in  the  fairest  day  upon  the  prairies, 
— or  by  the  closing  in  of  night.  Fires  were 
burning  when- we  entered  the  cabin,  the  rem- 
nant brands  of  a  travelling  caravan,  which  we 
had  passed  an  hour  ago,  on  their  way  south- 
ward. 

A  little  before  noon  we  reached  u  Boyd's 
Grove,"  a  belt  of  timber  separating  this  prairie 
from  another  which  lay  in  our  afternoon's 
course.  Here  was  our  dining-place.  One 
solitary  cabin  constituted  the  entire  settlement, 
and  the  only  one  to  be  encountered  until  we 
should  have  passed  another  prairie,  for  which 
we  prepared  ourselves  after  dinner  and  repose. 
I  had  been  bruised  and  jolted  to  my  heart's 
content,  and  I  set  my  wits  to  work  to  make 
the  remainder  of  my  ride  less  intolerable. 


176  GREAT    HEAT A   SHOWER. 

I  succeeded  in  procuring  a  bit  of  old  dirty  rope, 
by  which  I  suspended  a  board  from  the  bows 
of  the  wagon-top,  and  thus  made  me  quite  an 
easy  swing-seat,  on  which  I  performed  the 
remainder  of  the  ride  with  much  less  fatigue 
and  pain.  The  heat  continued  exceedingly 
oppressive  all  through  this  day.  We  had  an 
hundred  times  sighed  for  a  shower,  and  as 
often  expressed  our  wishes  relative  thereto, 
for  we  were  nearly  overcome  with  the  exces- 
sive heat,  our  jaded  animals  were  beginning  to 
lag  most  seriously,  and  our  driver's  patience 
completely  exhausted.  We  had  nearly  crossed 
the  prairie,  when  our  wishes  were  fully  real- 
ised ;  for  there  came  a  most  copious  shower 
of  rain,  driven  by  a  fierce  wind,  and  we  were 
most  delightfully  "cooled  off."  The  rain 
penetrated  our  frail  covering,  and  speedily 
wet  us  to  the  skin,  making  us  exceedingly  taci- 
turn, until  the  clouds,  lifted  by  the  wind, 
suddenly  let  out  the  sun  upon  a  scene  of  beauty, 
snch  as  would  make  a  stoic  break  out  in  ex- 
clamations of  surprise  and  delight. 

We  speedily  emerged  from  the  prairie,  and 
after  passing  through  a  slight  belt  of  forest, 


PRINCETON SAND-HILL  CRANES.      177 

came  into  a  small  prairie,  in  which  is  situated 
the  beautiful  and  thriving  town  of  Princeton, 
in  Bureau  county. 

This  village,  scarce  three  years  old,  has 
the  appearance  of  much  thrift,  and  is  sur- 
rounded on  all  sides  with  the  best  cultivated 
farms  I  have  seen  in  the  State.  Hundreds, 
nay,  thousands  of  acres  were  actually  groaning 
under  the  burden  of  their  crops.  The  wheat, 
either  just  bound  up  in  sheaves,  or  just  ripe 
for  the  sickle,  presented  a  rich  contrast  with 
the  dark  green  of  the  corn,  which  was  now 
fully  grown,  standing  ten  and  twelve  feet  in 
height. 

Our  ride  the  next  day  was  without  incident, 
save  that  we  saw  innumerable  prairie  hens, 
and  some  sand-hill  cranes.  These  latter  birds 
are  very  large  and  strong,  and,  when  irritated, 
are  no  light  match  for  a  stout  man.  They 
walked  about  very  majestically,  and  apparently 
without  any  fear.  I  also  saw  a  snake  hawk, 
with  a  moderate  sized  reptile  in  its  bill.  It 
flew  so  near  us  that  we  could  perceive  the 
writhing  of  the  serpent,  as  it  was  firmly  held 
in  the  beak,  and  triumphantly  borne  off  by  its 


178  DIXONSVILLE TOWN    SITE. 

winged  victor.  We  reached  Dixonsville, 
on  Rock  river,  a  little  after  noon,  where  we 
concluded  to  pass  the  night,  as  the  day  had 
been  excessively  hot.  In  the  evening  we 
sauntered  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  and 
came  suddenly  and  unexpectedly  upon  a  spring 
of  great  beauty  and  power.  It  gushed  out 
from  the  rocks  beneath  the  bluff  and  afforded 
a  stream  sufficient  to  carry  a  small  mill.  It 
boiled  out  from  openings  in  the  lime  rock,  with 
great  force,  and  was  so  cold  to  the  touch  that 
we  could  not  endure  to  immerse  our  hands  in 
it  for  a  half  minute  without  extreme  pain. 

Our  route  now  lay  down  the  western  bank 
of  the  river,  which  we  crossed  in  a  self-mov- 
ing ferry.  The  air  was  delightfully  fresh  and 
cool,  having  been  purified  during  the  night 
by  successive  thundergusts,  and  our  enjoy- 
ment was  indeed  keen,  as  we  rode  onward 
through  one  of  the  most  beautiful  regions  of 
country  that  can  be  found  in  the  west.  We 
reached  the  place  of  our  destination  a  little 
after  noon,  when  we  immediately  set  about 
the  purposes  of  our  mission,  which  was  to  lay 
out  upon  the  river  a  town  site,  and  as  many 


COMO,  179 

farms  as  our  land  would  allow.     I  ought  to 
have  said  before  this,  that  we  had  formed  an 
association  of  twentyfour  members,  and  had 
taken  measures  to  secure  our  claim  on  the 
spot  where  we  now  were,  containing  between 
three  and   four  thousand  acres.     This  tract 
lies   on  the  west  side  of  Rock  river,  at   the 
junction  of  the  Elk  Horn  river,  a  stream  suf- 
ficient, at  the  driest  season,  for  driving  all  the 
machinery  necessary  to  build  up  a  large  town. 
Of  the  beauty  and  advantages  of  this  point  I 
shall  not  trust  myself  to  speak,  for  two  rea- 
sons— first,  I  have  a  personal  interest  therein, 
and  should  scarcely  obtain  credit  for  unbiased 
description  ;  and  secondly,  because  its  surpris- 
ing beauty  would  be  credited  by  no  one  who 
had  never  visited  the  spot.     Why  should  I 
waste  time  or  stationery  to  no  good  effect  ? 
We  succeeded  in  laying  off  our  town  and  farms 
to  the  satisfaction  of  the  whole  association, 
and  christened   it  with  the  brief  and  round- 
sounding   name   of    COMO.     We  derived  it 
from  the  spot,  it  having  once  been  the  favorite 
residence  of  an  Indian  chief  of  that  name. 
There  is  a  lake  and  city  in  Italy  of  the  same 


180  IMPROVEMENTS. 

name,  famous  for  its  being  the  exile  home  of 
the  banished  Queen  Caroline. 

The  division  of  property  took  place  before 
we  left  the  place,  and  the  choice  money 
resulting  therefrom  was  sufficient  to  erect  a 
fine  mill,  build  a  ferry-boat,  throw  a  bridge 
across  the  Elk  Horn,  etc.  etc.,  so  that  we 
expect  to  have  a  town,  in  fact,  and  not  on 
paper.  Every  member  of  the  association  is 
pledged  to  build  a  tenantable  house  within 
eighteen  months,  and  each  one  intends  to  be- 
come an  actual  resident.  The  country  is 
rapidly  filling  up  in  that  neighborhood,  and 
mechanics,  farmers,  traders,  and  laboring  men, 
will  find  it  to  their  advantage  to  settle  in  the 
neighborhood.  The  mill  is  already  in  process 
of  building,  and  a  number  of  buildings,  for 
purposes  of  trade,  residence,  and  mechanical 
pursuits.  Como  is  situated  five  miles  below 
the  second  rapids,  and  seventeen  below  Dix- 
on's  ferry.  A  state  road  is  laid  out,  and  will 
be  opened  in  the  early  spring  (of  1839), 
leading  from  Peoria  to  Galena,  and  passing 
directly  through  the  principal  street  of  the 
town,  which  must  draw  almost  all  the  northern 


HOMEWARD    BOUND.  181 

and  southern  travel,  being  nearer  than  any 
other  route,  by  some  dozen  miles  between 
the  two  points.  And  when  the  rapids,  below 
and  near  the  mouth  shall  be  removed — as  will 
soon  be  the  case,  the  work  actually  going  on, 
— steamboats  can  pass  up  to  the  place,  except 
during  the  reign  of  frost. 

But  I  have  said  more  of  the  place  than  I 
had  intended,  and  leave  it,  with  the  hint  to 
such  as  may  propose  to  visit  that  section  of 
country,  that  it  may  not  be  amiss  to  give  it  a 
passing  look. 

Nothing  new  occurred  on  our  homeward 
route,  save  that  we  saw  a  beautiful  stag  bound 
along  the  road  before  us,  and  plunge  into  a 
neighboring  corn-field,  where  he  was  hid  from 
our  view.  The  weather  was  exceedingly  un- 
like that  we  had  experienced  in  our  upward 
journey,  being  delightfully  cool  and  pleasant. 


16 


182  TRAVELLING    FACILITIES. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

Facilities  for  travelling— 'Rise  of  property — Wabash  and  Erie 
Canals — Productions  of  the  soil — Ploughing  and  planting 
prairie— Beet  Sugar — Mulberry  and  Silk— Hay — Ditching 
and  fencing — Farms  on  shares— Profits  of  cultivation- 
Economy— Speculation— Wealth  the  product  alone  of  labor. 

I  KNOW  not  how  I  can  better  embrace  the 
whole  caption  of  this  chapter,  than  by  trans- 
mitting to  these  pages,  in  this  place,  the  entire 
letter  of  the  Hon.  H.  L.  Ellsworth,  Superin- 
tendent of  the  Patent  Office,  in  Washington, 
in  answer  to  one  containing  questions  relative 
to  husbandry  at  the  west.  I  shall  take  the 
liberty,  however,  of  adding  notes  as  I  go 
along,  because  I  think  the  letter  calculated  to 
give,  though  a  fair,  not  a  perfect  representation. 
Some  of  the  honorable  gentleman's  statements 
will  be  found,  I  fear,  somewhat  wide  of  the  mark. 
I  had  thought  best  to  write  a  chapter  on  these 
subjects,  but  believe  that  by  giving  my  own 
impressions  in  notes,  while  the  text  is  made  to 
express  another's,  the  reader  will  be  better 
able  to  draw  sound  and  correct  inferences. 


VALLEY    OF    THE    WABASH.  183 

It  will  be  seen,  on  reading,  that  it  was  intended 
to  apply  principally  to  the  valley  of  the  Wa- 
bash,  but  is  equally  applicable  to  all  parts  of 
Illinois,  and  the  West  generally.  Cut  up  as 
this  whole  country  will  soon  be,  with  railroads 
and  canals — not  to  mention  those  superior 
water-courses  nature  has  placed  there, — there 
will  be  but  few  portions  of  the  country  where 
there  will  be  no  facilities  for  transportation 
such  as  are  recognised  in  this  letter. 

WASHINGTON,  JAN.  1,  1837. 

DEAR  SIR, — You  doubtless  expect  some 
further  statement  than  has  been  received,  re- 
specting the  investment  made  for  you  in  the 
valley  of  the  Wabash.  A  desire  to  meet  my 
son,  who  was  daily  expected  from  Lafayette, 
has  delayed  my  writing  until  this  time.  And 
now,  let  me  say,  generally,  that  the  west  has 
grown  and  will  continue  to  increase  beyond 
the  most  sanguine  calculation.  Nor  will  any 
action  of  the  general  government  materially 
check  the  advancement  of  the  lands  which  are 
judiciously  located  on  the  great  western  canals 
or  railroads.  Very  little  is  yet  known  of  the 


184  TRAVEL. 

valley  of  the  Wabash.  Although  the  fertility 
of  the  soil  is  unequalled,  (1)  few  have  ever 
seen  this  country.  The  reason  is  obvious  ; 
there  is  no  communication  with  it ;  and  hence, 
speculators  and  settlers  have  passed  around  it, 
going  west,  either  by  the  Michigan  lake,  or 
by  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  rivers. 

Five  thousand  persons  left  Buffalo  in  one 
day  to  go  up  the  lake,  and  yet  not  one  went 
into  the  valley  of  the  Wabash.  A  slight  in- 
spection of  the  map=>  of  Indiana,  Ohio,  and 
Illinois,  will  show  a  direct  route  to  the  Mis- 
sissippi from  the  west  end  of  Lake  Erie,  to  be 
up  the  Maumee,  and  down  the  Wabash  valley 
to  Lafayette.  It  may,  therefore,  be  consid- 
ered certain,  that  when  the  railroad  from  St. 
Louis  to  Lafayette  is  completed,  the  great 
travel  from  the  Mississippi  valley  to  the  east, 
will  be  by  the  lakes,  through  the  Wabash  and 
Erie  canal,  the  shortest  and  quickest  route  by 
several  days.  A  person  at  the  mouth  of  the 

Note  1.— The  valley  of  the  Wabash  has,  doubtless,  a  rich 
and  fertile  soil,  but  in  this,  it  is  in  no  way  peculiar.  There 
is  a  preference  in  the  soil  of  the  West,  but  there  are  very 
few  sections  where  the  soil  is  not  sufficiently  good  to  war- 
rant a  location  upon  it  for  purposes  of  tillage. 


DISTANCES.  185 

Ohio  will  pass  up  to  St.  Louis,  then  take  the 
railroad  and  canal  to  Lake  Erie,  in  preference 
to  following  the  meanders  of  the  Ohio  river  in 
a  steamboat.  Can  there  be  a  doubt  on  this 
subject  ? — What  time  will  be  occupied  on 
this  route  to  New  York  ?  Not  exceeding  six 
days.  From  St.  Louis  to  Lafayette  (240 
miles),  one  day  may  be  allowed  ;  from  La- 
fayette to  the  lake,  at  the  rate  of  4£  to  5  miles 
on  the  canal  (now  in  operation  considerable 
part  of  the  way),  fortyeight  hours  ;  and  from 
the  lake  to  New  York  city,  via  railroad  (now 
commenced),  not  exceeding  two  days.  (2) 

What  changes  this  must  make  in  the  value 
of  property  on  the  route  !  The  value  of  land 
depends  on  the  fertility  of  the  soil  and  the  fa- 
cility of  transportation.  From  a  personal 

Note  2. — When  the  projected  rail  roads  and  canals  shall  be 
completed,  perhaps  this  route  will  be  chosen  by  some— never 
by  the  majority :  and  for  this  reason,  that  they  can  never  suc- 
cessfully compete  with  the  steamboats  in  point  of  cheapness 
of  fare.  It  will  be  far  more  expeditious  and  safe,  and  those 
who  care  but  little  for  the  expense  will  doubtless  go  by  this 
route.  But  the  bulk  of  western  travel  arises  from  immigra- 
tion, and  the  bulk  of  immigrants  will  seek  the  cheapest  route, 
— that  never  lies  over  land  where  there  is  good  water  car- 
riage. 

16* 


186  ROUTES. 

inspection  of  the  western  states,  during  six 
months  past,  I  am  fully  convinced  the  Wabash 
valley  has  the  best  soil  and  most  favorable 
climate.  In  the  latitude  of  Philadelphia,  you 
avoid  the  extreme  of  great  heat  in  summer, 
and  of  cold  in  winter,  and  also  avoid  the  dan- 
ger of  early  frosts,  so  prevalent  in  higher 
latitudes.  (3)  You  may  ask,  what  will  be  the 
markets  for  Indiana  ?  I  answer,  New  York 
and  New  Orleans,  the  former  by  the  Erie 
canal,  and  the  latter  by  the  Wabash  river 
(navigable  to  Lafayette  for  steamboats),  and 
by  the  railroad  above-mentioned  to  St  Louis  ; 
also  Montreal,  by  the  Welland  canal.  A 
choice  of  all  these  markets,  equally  accessible, 
is  presented  to  farmers  on  the  Wabash  valley, 
who  possess  a  great  advantage  over  Michigan 
and  Wisconsin,  in  the  early  navigation  of  the 
Wabash  river.  The  produce  of  this  valley 
can  by  this  river  pass  down  to  New  Orleans 
in  flat  boats,  free  of  tolls,  and  be  transported 

Note  3.— With  regard  to  latitude,  I  should  advise  as  a  gen- 
eral thing,  that  immigrants  seek  the  climate  in  the  West,  most 
similar  to  that  in  which  they  have  been  reared.  It  will  gen- 
erally be  found  better,  perhaps,  to  go  one  degree  further  south . 
Of  course,  this  does  not  apply  to  invalids. 


MARKETS.  187 

to  Charleston,  Baltimore,  New  York,  and 
Boston,  six  weeks  before  the  New  York  canal 
opens. — This  early  market  may  be  estimated 
at  a  good  profit  in  business.  (4) 

You  may  ask  if  the  Wabash  and  Erie  canals 

Note  4. — It  may  not  be  irrelevant  to  put  in  a  note  in  this 
place  ;  giving  some  information  relative  to  markets  in  Illinois. 
On  all  the  great  water  courses,  St.  Louis  and  New  Orleans  are 
the  great  focuses  to  which  nearly  all  the  surplus  produce 
will  go.  Rock  river,  at  least  the  upper  part  of  it,  Fox  river, 
and  the  whole  neighborhood  of  the  lake  and  the  great  canal 
which  is  to  connect  the  Illinois  with  Lake  Michigan,  form  an 
exception  to  this  general  rule.  To  all  this  region,  embracing 
the  northeastern  part  of  Illinois,  the  northern  part  of 
Indiana,  the  northwestern  part  of  Michigan,  and  the  south- 
eastern part  of  Wisconsin,  the  northern  markets,  via  the 
lakes,  offer  the  greatest  inducements,  and  must  eventually 
attract  and  monopolize  the  largest  portion  of  the  productions 
of  these  territories.  But,  at  present,  there  is  a  home  market 
for  all  this  region.  It  is  a  fact,  worthy  of  recollection,  that 
bread  stuffs  are  annually  imported  into  the  region  in  large 
quantities,  there  not  being  enough  raised  to  meet  the  con- 
sumption. This  is  owing  entirely  to  the  immense  tide  of 
immigration  which  is  constantly  pouring  in  there,  and  con- 
suming, like  a  cloud  of  locusts,  all  that  is  raised  and  much 
more.  In  the  summer  of  1833,  prior  to  the  time  of  harvest, 
every  thing  bore  the  highest  prices.  Flour,  $14,  corn,  $1  50, 
potatoes,  $2,  and  so  on  through  the  whole  list  of  prices  cur- 
rent. And  this  market  will  continue  for  years  to  come  ;  and 
long  before  the  production  shall  exceed  the  consumption,  an 
easy  and  cheap  egress  to  the  northern  and  southern  markets 
will  be  afforded  to  the  producers. 


188  PRODUCTIONS. 

will  surely  be  completed  ?  Undoubtedly  they 
will.  Indiana  and  Ohio  are  pledged  to  com- 
plete them.  Nearly  all  is  now  under  contract, 
and  government  has  given  lands  adjoining 
sufficient  to  finish  the  same  without  any  ex- 
pense to  the  states. 

As  like  causes  (other  things  being  equal) 
produce  like  effects,  it  will  not  tax  your  cre- 
dulity to  believe,  that  the  rich  lands  on  the 
Wabash  valley  will  equal  those  on  the  Ohio, 
New  York,  and  Pennsylvania  canals,  which 
vary  25  to  60  dollars  per  acre.  Is  it  possible 
that  lands  yielding  40  bushels  of  wheat,  70  of 
corn,  60  of  oats,  and  450  of  potatoes,  and 
distant  only  ten  or  twelve  days  transportation 
from  New  York  or  New  Orleans  cities,  can 
be  less  than  $50  per  acre  ?  (5) 

In  making  selections,  I  have,  when  practi- 
cable, procured  both  prairie  and  timber, 
though  I  am  sure  there  has  been  a  common 
error  to  pass  the  rich  prairie  because  timber 

Note  5. — Already  lands  in  the  vicinity  of  large  towns  and 
even  small  villages,  in  various  parts  of  the  state  of  Illinois, 
command  from  $20  to  $30  per  acre,  for  the  purpose  of  agri- 
culture. 


CLEARING    LAND.  189 

cannot  be  found  adjoining  at  the  government 
price.  Under  this  belief  many  settlers  have, 
to  their  sorrow,  entered  the  timber  and  left 
the  prairie,  because  they  supposed  nobody 
would  enter  that  without  possessing  the  timber. 
The  prairie  has  been  entered  lately.  And 
such  is  the  facility  for  raising  timber  on  prai- 
ries, by  sowing  the  seed  of  black  walnut  and 
locust,  that  the  desire  for  timber  land  has 
diminished.  Those  who  doubt  the  compara- 
tive value  of  timber  land,  will  do  well  to 
consider  that  twelve  dollars  is  a  fair  price  for 
clearing  timber  land. 

Timber  land,  when  cleared  in  the  usual 
manner,  is  left  incumbered  with  stumps  and 
roots,  fatal  obstacles  to  labor-saving  machines. 
Twelve  thousand  dollars  will  be  required  to 
clear  1000  acres  of  timber  land,  whereas  the 
1000  acres  of  prairie  can  be  put  in  tame  grass 
without  ploughing.  (6) 

Note  6. — The  prairie  grass,  although  most  firmly  and 
densely  knit  together  at  its  roots,  is  very  easily  destroyed. 
When  recently  burned  over,  a  large  harrow  drawn  across  it 
a  few  times,  will  effectually  kill  the  grass,  and  the  seed  of 
tame  grass  will  take  root  in  its  place  without  ploughing,  and 
bear  very  abundantly. 


* 

190  SUGAR    BEET. 

A  prairie  farm  may  be  put  in  complete  cul- 
tivation at  from  $3,75  to  $9  per  acre,  accord- 
ing to  the  computations  of  my  son  Edward, 
who  has  been  extensively  engaged  in  cultivat- 
ing the  prairie  for  the  last  year.  From  a 
personal  examination  of  the  land  in  France, 
and  on  the  Wabash  valley,  I  feel  no  hesitation 
in  pronouncing  the  latter  decidedly  the  best 
for  the  beet  sugar  manufacture.  In  France, 
eight,  ten,  and  twelve  dollars  per  acre  are  paid 
for  rent,  and  yet  great  profits  are  made.  An 
acre  of  good  land  will  yield  44,000  pounds  of 
sugar  beat,  from  which  2400  pounds  of  sugar 
can  be  extracted,  which,  at  ten  cents  per 
pound,  amounts  to  240  dollars  per  acre.  (7) 

In  England,  paper  is  now  made  from  the 
residuum  of  beets,  after  the  saccaharine  matter 
is  extracted.  An  application  for  a  similar  pa- 
tent is  now  pending  in  the  patent  office.  The 

Note  7. — As  far  as  my  observations  have  extended  I  am 
convinced  that  the  last  estimate,  as  above,  of  $9  per  acre  is 
qnite  little  enough,  and  from  that  to  $12.  This,  of  course  in- 
cludes buildings,  fences,  etc.  etc.  There  can  be  no  doubt 
but  that  the  whole  extent  of  the  West,  will  be  found  favora- 
ble to  the  production  of  the  sugar  beet,  and  that  the  man- 
ufacture of  sugar  will  ere  long  reach  the  full  demand  made 
for  that  necessary  article  in  household  economy. 


CROPS    AND    STOCK.  191 

sample  of  paper  exhibited  is  very  good,  and 
the  rapidity  with  which  the  paper  is  made, 
must  reduce  materially  the  price  of  the  article. 
Many  labor-saving  machines  are  introduced  to 
aid  in  the  cultivation  of  new  lands.  In  a  few 
years  it  is  probable  that  ploughing  on  smooth 
lands  will  be  effected  by  steam,  and  even  now 
mowing  and  reaping  are  successfully  done  by 
horse-power. 

Such  are  the  profits  of  cultivation,  that  I 
would  advise  all  who  can  to  improve  some 
part  of  their  lands.  A  small  improvement 
will  repay  expenditures,  and  greatly  enhance 
the  value  of  the  whole  investment.  Three 
benefits  may  be  expected  :  1.  The  crops  will 
pay  expenses  and  yield  a  great  profit.  2. 
The  land  cultivated  and  the  land  adjoining  will 
be  advanced  several  hundred  per  cent.  3.  If 
stock  is  put  on  the  farm  the  same  is  numeri- 
cally increased,  and  greatly  enhanced  in  value 
by  improving  the  breed. 

Either  of  these  considerations  is  sufficient 
to  justify  cultivation  and  guaranty  a  large  re- 
turn., I  might  mention  the  successful  cultiva- 
tion of  hay  in  the  west — from  one  and  a  half 


192  HAY. 

to  two  tons  is  a  fair  crop.  This  can  be  cut 
and  pressed  without  any  labor-saving  machines 
at  two  dollars  per  ton  ;  and  if  the  grass  was 
cut  by  horse-power,  the  expense  would  be 
still  less.  The  profits  on  one  hundred  heifers 
at  five  dollars,  might  easily  be  supposed. 
Fifty  breeding  sows  would  probably  bring  700 
pigs  per  annum,  and  by  these  means  a  large 
farm  could  be  stocked  with  little  capital  ad- 
vanced. 

Hay  at  New  Orleans  varies  from  20  to  50 
dollars  per  ton.  An  average  for  the  last  three 
years  may  be  thirty  dollars.  The  cost  of 
floating  down  hay  in  flat  boats  to  New  Orleans 
may  be  eight  dollars  per  ton. 

There  is  a  practice  mentioned  by  Mr  New- 
ell, and  highly  recommended  by  others,  of 
putting  in  hay-seed  without  ploughing  the 
ground.  This  is  done  by  burning  the  prairie 
grass  in  the  spring,  and  harrowing  in  the  seed. 
The  seed  catches  quick  and  grows  well.  Blue 
grass  especially  succeeds  in  this  way,  and  the 
grass  will  sustain  stock  all  winter  without  cut- 
ting hay  or  fodder  for  them.  A  large  drove 
of  horses  was  kept  last  winter  at  Indianapolis 


MULBERRY — SILK.  193 

on  blue  grass,  on  the  open  fields,  at  the  small 
expense  of  one  dollar  per  head  per  month. 

From  personal  examination,  I  am  convinced 
that  ditching  and  hedging,  as  practised  in  Hol- 
land, England,  and  France,  almost  entirely, 
and  successfully  adopted  in  Illinois,  is  cheaper 
than  rails.  The  general  complaint  of  the 
earth  crumbling  by  frost  is  prevented  by  sow- 
ing blue  grass  seed  on  the  sides.  Mulberry 
trees  might  be  raised  on  the  slope  of  the  ditch, 
with  great  profit.  Indeed,  such  is  the  rapid 
growth  of  the  mulberry  in  these  rich  prairie 
lands,  that  the  purchase  of  this  land  at  $1,25 
an  acre,  and  planted  by  these  trees  alone, 
would  in  a  few  years  be  highly  valuable. 
Such  is  the  extent  of  the  prairie,  that  wood- 
land will  always  be  valuable  for  timber.  The 
woodland  is  also  rich,  and  fine  for  cultivation  ; 
and  if  trees  under  a  certain  diameter  are  cut, 
a  fine  grazing  farm  may  easily  be  made,  and 
the  good  timber  preserved.  Similar  pastures 
•  are  found  in  Kentucky  ;  these  yield  three 
dollars  profit  per  acre  annually.  It  may  be 
asked,  how  can  non-residents  best  cultivate 
their  lands  ?  I  would  remark,  that  it  is  cus- 
17 


194  RENTING    FARMS. 

ternary  to  rent  land  (once  broke  and  fenced,) 
for  one  third  of  the  crop,  delivered  in  the  crib 
or  barn.  At  this  rent  the  tenants  find  all. 

I  would  advise  to  employ  smart  enterpris- 
ing young  men  from  the  New  England  states 
to  take  the  farm  on  shares.  If  the  landlord 
should  find  a  house,  team,  cart,  and  plough, 
and  add  some  stock,  he  might  then  require 
one  half  of  the  profits  of  the  same.  I  would 
advise  to  allow  for  fencing  or  ditching  a  cer- 
tain sum,  and  stipulate  that  the  capital  invested 
should  be  returned  before  the  profits  were  di- 
vided. A  farmer  could  in  this  way  earn  for 
himself  from  $700  to  $1000  per  annum,  on  a 
lease  for  five  years.  The  second  year  a 
mowing  machine  might  be  furnished,  if  one 
hundred  acres  were  seeded  down  to  tame 
grass.  Mast  for  swine  is  found  in  great  abun- 
dance, and  the  number  of  hogs  could  easily 
be  increased  to  one  thousand  by  adding  to, 
the  number  of  breeding  sows.  (8) 

Note  8.— I  have  been  often  asked  how  a  young  man  who' 
could  raise  no  capital  could  get  along  at  the  West.     The  an- 
swer is  had  above.    I  know  of  many  persons  who  would  be 
glad  to  furnish  a  farm  at  the  halves  for  three  or  five  years. 
That  is  to  say,  they  will  furnish  wild  land,  timber  for  a  house, 


BITUMINOUS    COAL.  195 

Corn  is  so  easily  raised  that  it  is  found  ad- 
vantageous to  turn  hogs  into  a  field  of  this 
grain  without  gathering  it.  It  has  long  been 
the  practice  in  New  York  to  raise  oats  and 
peas  together,  and  turn  in  the  swine  to  har- 
vest the  same  when  ripe.  Experiments  this 
summer  in  Connecticut  show  a  great  profit  in 
raising  spring  wheat  and  oats  together,  and 
feeding  out  the  same  to  hogs.  I  have  omitted 
to  say  that  good  bituminous  coal  is  found  in 
the  valley  of  the  Wabash.  The  veins  are 
from  five  to  ten  feet  thick,  and  a  large  wagon- 
load  will  supply  one  fire  for  a  year.  Salt 
also  manufactured  in  large  quantities  and  su- 
perior in  quality  to  the  Kenhawa  salt. 

Farmers   in  Indiana  and  Illinois  are  now 

farming  utensils,  part  or  whole  of  the  stock,  for  one  half  the 
produce  and  increase  of  stock,  deducting,  of  course,  the  con- 
sumption of  the  family,  thus  renting  a  farm.  For  mere 
rent,  a  farm  of  100  acres  is  as  good  as  one  of  two,  unless  the 
tenant  has  hoys  to  cultivate  more  ;  as  he  will  find  that  100 
acres  will  be  all  he  can  manage  well  and  profitably.  And 
he  would  do  far  better  to  confine  his  labor  to  a  much  smaller 
field.  As  for  pasturing,  he  may  have,  anywhere  thousands 
of  acres  of  prairie  in  common  with  his  neighbors.  No  mat- 
ter who  owns  it,  it  is  public  pasture  until  it  be  fenced,  which 
will  not  be  for  many  years  to  come. 


196  FENCES. 

successfully  inclosing  their  farms  by  ditching, 
which  has  cost  from  fifty  to  seventyfive  cents 
per  rod.  The  laws  of  the  states  of  Indiana 
and  Illinois  compel  the  owners  of  land  adjoin- 
ing to  pay  one  half  of  fencing,  whenever  they 
make  use  of,  or  derive  any  benefits  from  the 
fences  of  their  neighbor.  This  lessens  the 
expense  of  fencing  one  half. 

If  it  be  asked  what  are  the  profits  of  culti- 
vation ?  I  answer,  if  the  land  is  rented  for 
five  years,  the  profits  accruing  during  this 
period  will  repay  the  capital  advanced  in  the 
commencement,  with  twentyfive  per  cent, 
interest  per  annum,  and  leave  the  farm  worth 
twenty  dollars  per  acre  at  the  expiration  of 
the  lease.  Probably  the  profit  will  he  much 
greater. 

Yours  respectfully, 

H.  L.  ELLSWORTH* 


TREES.  197 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

On  Trees,  Gardens,  etc. 

STORIES  are  current  at  the  east  of  the 
gigantic  size  of  trees  at  the  west,  which  lead 
many  to  suppose  that  the  largest  trees  found 
in  New  England  are  mere  pigmies  in  compar- 
ison. This  impression  is  very  much  like 
others  which  have  no  other  foundation  than  in 
imagination.  The  trees  on  the  heavily  tim- 
bered bottoms  of  the  rivers,  often  grow  to  an 
enormous  size,  and  generally  the  trees  are 
larger  than  in  New  England  ;  but  the  differ- 
ence is  far  less  than  many  imagine.  I  have 
not  seen  half  a  dozen  trees  at  the  west,  which 
could  not  be  readily  matched  in  the  white  pine 
forests  of  Maine,  although  it  can  scarcely  be 
doubted,  that  could  the  largest  of  the  pines  be 
transplanted  to  the  rich  soil  of  the  bottoms  in 
question,  they  would  nearly  double  their 
present  gigantic  proportions.  Cottonwood 
and  sycamore  trees  are  the  largest  that  are 
17* 


198  KINDS    OF    TIMBER. 

produced  at  the  west,  and  sometimes  reach 
an  amazing  size. 

The  growth  of  bottom  lands  consists  of  black 
walnut,  ash  of  several  species,  hackberry  elm 
(white,  red  and  slippery),  sugar-maple,  honey- 
locust,  buck-eye,  catalpa,  sycamore,  cotton- 
wood,  pecan,  hickory,  mulberry ;  several  oaks 
— as,  overcup,  bur-oak,  swamp  or  water  oak, 
white,  red,  or  Spanish  oak  ;  and  of  the  shrub- 
bery are  red-bud,  papaw,  grape-vine,  dog- 
wood, spice-bush,  hazel,  greenbrier,  &c. 
Along  the  margin  of  the  streams  the  sycamore 
and  cottonwood  often  predominate,  and  attain 
to  an  amazing  size.  The  cottonwood  is  of 
rapid  growth,  a  light,  white  wood,  sometimes 
used  for  rails,  shingles,  and  scantlings  ;  not 
lasting  and  of  no  great  value.  Its  dry,  light 
wood  is  much  used  in  steamboats.  It  forms 
the  chief  proportion  of  the  drift  wood  that 
floats  down  the  rivers,  and  is  frequently  con- 
verted into  planters,  snags,  and  sawyers. 
^The  sycamore  is  the  buttonwood  of  New- 
England,  is  frequently  hollow,  and  in  that 
state  procured  by  the  farmers,  cut  at  suitable 
lengths,  cleared  out,  and  used  as  depositories 


HOLLOW    TREES.  199 

for  grain.  They  answer  the  purpose  of  large 
casks.  The  size  of  the  cavity  of  some  of 
these  trees  appears  incredible  in  the  ears  of  a 
stranger  to  the  luxuriant  growth  of  the  west. 
To  say  that  twenty  or  thirty  men  could  be 
comfortably  lodged  in  one,  would  seem  a 
monstrous  fiction  to  a  New  Englander,  but  to 
those  accustomed  to  this  species  of  tree  on 
the  bottoms,  it  is  nothing  marvellous.1  And 
yet  I  have  seen,  in  more  than  one  instance, 
trees  thus  hollowed  out  by  nature,  converted 
not  only  into  casks  and  bins,  but  into  out- 
buildings, such  as  pig-styes,  well-houses,  etc. 
The  uplands  are  covered  with  various  spe- 
cies of  oak,  amongst  which  is  the  post-oak,  a 
valuable  and  lasting  timber  for  posts  ;  white 
oak,  black  oak  of  several  varieties,  and  the 
black  jack,  a  dwarfish  gnarled  looking  tree, 
good  for  nothing  but  fuel,  for  which  it  is  equal 
to  any  tree  we  have  :  of  hickory,  both  the 
shagbark  and  smoothbark,  black  walnut  in  some 
parts,  white  walnut  or  butternut,  lynn,  cherry, 
and  many  of  the  species  produced  in  the  bot- 
toms. The  black  walnut  is  much  used  for 
building  materials,  and  cabinet  work,  and  sus- 


200  HARD    WOODS. 

tains  a  fine  polish.  The  different  species  of 
oaks,  walnuts,  hackberry,  and  occasionally 
hickory,  are  used  for  fencing. 

Timber  grows  here  with  amazing  rapidity, 
consequently  it  perishes  sooner.  The  vari- 
ous kinds  of  oaks  are  softer  than  at  the  east, 
and  will  not  endure,  in  the  same  exposures, 
more  than  two  thirds  as  long.  The  wood  is 
coarse  and  porous,  and  readily  ignites  while 
even  in  its  unseasoned  state. 

Perhaps  the  black  walnut  is  the  most  valu- 
able tree,  answering,  as  it  does,  for  all  kinds 
of  cabinet  work.  Although  not  more  prized 
at  the  west  than  mahogany  at  St  Domingo,  it 
is  in  very  high  repute  in  the  eastern  cities,  for 
the  purposes  above-named,  and  generally  bears 
a  higher  price  than  mahogony.  This  tree 
bears  a  large  round  nut,  much  prized  by 
many .  The  white  walnut  is  mentioned  above. 
I  need  but  to  say  that  this  is  the  New  Eng- 
land butternut.  Hjckory  is  very  abundant,  and 
is  used  for  building  and  fencing.  Whenever 
other  timber  can  be  procured,  this  should  be 
passed  over,  as  the  wood-worm,  or  borer,  in- 


SUGAR    MAPLE PAPAW.  201 

variably  sets  up  his  claim  to  it,  and  fills  the 
house  with  the  dust  he  makes. 

Sugar  maples  grow  to  a  large  size,  and  are 
highly  prized  for  their  saccharine  properties. 
Many  families  have  no  other  sweetening  in 
their  house  than  this  produces.  Ash  is  abun- 
dant in  many  places,  though  by  no  means 
generally  to  be  met.  It  is  far  inferior,  in 
toughness  and  elasticity  to  the  eastern  ash. 

The  pecan,  or  pecaun,  is  valuable  only  for 
its  fruit — being  a  pleasant-flavored  nut,  in  the 
esteem  of  most  persons. 

The  papaw  bears  a  fruit  resembling  some- 
what, when  perfectly  ripe,  the  ripe  cucumber. 
Its  flavor  is  not  dissimilar  to  a  scantily  sweet- 
ened custard,  or  an  over-ripe  muskmelon. 
It  is  sometimes  called  the  custard  tree.  Its 
fruit  is  wholesome  and  palatable. 

The  plum  abounds,  and  yields  its  fruit  in 
the  richest  profusion.  Its  fruit  is  palatable — 
something  like  the  Canada  plum, — and  makes 
a  delicious  preserve  when  cured  in  the  sugar 
produced  from  the  maple. 

The  red-bud  is  remarkable  only  for  its  fiery 
appearance  when  it  is  putting  forth  its  leaves. 


202     GRAPES — PEACHES — PLUMS. 

In  a  bright  sunshine,  a  forest  freely  sprinkled 
with  the  red-bud,  resembles  a  forest  on  fire, 
so  brilliant  are  its  scarlet  buds. 

Grapes  are  produced  in  the  wildest  profu- 
sion and  the  greatest  perfection  all  over  the 
country,  as  far  as  my  observation  extends. 
Foreign  grapes  are  easily  engrafted  on  the  na- 
tive stock,  and  do  well.  A  great  deal  of 
wine  is  made  from  the  wild  grape  every  year. 
We  were  told  of  one  man  who  made  twenty 
barrels  in  one  year. 

There  is,  also,  the  crab,  or  Siberian  apple, 
the  fruit  of  which  makes  a  very  palatable  pre- 
serve. One  valuable  property  of  this  tree  is, 
that  it  makes  a  fine  stock  on  which  to  engraft 
the  common  apple.  Apples  have  thus  been 
raised  the  third  year  in  considerable  quantities. 

Peaches,  plums,  nectarines  —  indeed  all 
kinds  of  stone  fruit,  —  do  well,  and  arrive  at 
maturity  in  a  wonderfully  short  space  of  time. 
A  man  who  sets  himself  down  in  an  entirely 
new  place,  can  have  as  much  fruit  of  all  kinds 
as  he  wishes  in  four  or  five  years.  I  would, 
by  all  means,  advise  emigrants  to  take  out 
with  them  all  kinds  of  fruit  seed,  and  in  plenty. 


RAPID    GROWTH.  203 

The  peach  stone  may  be  cracked,  and  the 
meats  carefully  preserved,  and  thereby  a  great 
deal  of  weight  and  bulk  saved  :  and  they  will 
come  up  quicker.  Beside,  they  can  be  sown 
in  the  spring,  and  will  come  forward  as  rapidly 
as  if  they  had  been  planted,  in  the  stone,  the 
autumn  before.  No  matter  how  many  trees 
he  may  have,  they  will  always  bring  cash  and 
a  high  price.  Many  persons  are  driving  a 
profitable  business  by  growing  fruit-trees  for 
the  market. 

By  all  means  let  the  settler  sow,  immedi- 
ately, a  nursery  of  black  locust.  In  three 
years'  time  they  will  afford  quite  a  shade,  and 
greatly  adorn  a  plantation  on  the  prairie.  Be- 
sides, the  trees  make  a  capital  hedge  for  fence^ 
and  in  six  years  his  thicket  will  afford  him 
fuel  and  railing  for  fence. 

Common  chestnuts,  also,  do  well.  They 
come  up  readily,  and  thrive  well.  It  might 
be  well  for  the  immigrant  to  take  a  bushel  or 
two  out  with  him. 

In  this  connexion,  as  well,  perhaps,  as  any 
where,  I  may  suggest  to  immigrants  to  take 
out  with  him  all  the  varieties  of  garden  seeds 


204  GARDENS. 

he  can  obtain,  and  let  him  be  sure,  among  the 
first  things  he  does,  to  subdue  a  small  patch  of 
ground  for  a  garden.  Everything  that  grows 
well  in  New  England,  grows  better  at  the 
west. 

Fruit-trees,  suitable  for  transplanting,  can 
generally  be  had  at  all  the  large  towns  on  the 
Ohio  and  Mississippi  rivers.  Whoever  is 
going  out  in  the  spring,  will  do  well  to  take  a 
few  dozens  along  with  him.  The  cost  is  no- 
thing, in  consideration,  to  the  pleasure  derived 
from  having  fruit  one  or  two  years  earlier, 
of  which  by  this  means  you  are  sure. 

I  see  no  good  reason  why  the  white  pine 
may  not  be  readily  and  successfully  introduced 
into  any  place  in  the  west.  I  would  recom- 
mend, to  any  one  who  may  go  from  a  pine 
neighborhood,  to  gather  a  quantity  of  pine 
burrs,  or  apples,  and  make  the  experiment. 
Should  it  be  crowned  with  success,  it  would 
afford  the  projector  a  splendid  profit,  as  ever- 
greens are  brought  from  an  immense  distance, 
and  bear  an  exorbitant  price. 

The  mulberry  has  been  introduced  with 
success  into  Illinois  and  Missouri,  and  there  is 


SUGAR    BEET.  205 

no  reason  why  it  may  not  be  extensively  and 
successfully  cultivated  anywhere  in  moderate 
latitudes  at  the  west.  I  would  recommend 
every  one  to  carry  out  a  few  seeds  of  the 
mulberry.  He  will  have  land  enough  to  sow 
them  upon,  and  they  will  take  tolerable  care  of 
themselves  ;  in  a  few  years  he  may  find  them 
valuable.  At  any  rate,  they  will  serve  to  or- 
nament his  grounds. 

In  this  connexion  I  would  touch  on  some 
other  things  not  irrelevant.  The  enterprise 
which  sends  out  our  young  men  to  the  west, 
prompts  them  to  "  try  their  hand"  at  almost 
anything  which  holds  out  a  fair  chance  of  suc- 
cess. Thus,  already,  do  we  witness  experi- 
ments in  almost  all  the  projects  of  the  day 
relating  to  agriculture.  Thus  we  see  men 
essaying  their  fortunes  by  raising  broom-corn, 
mulberries  and  silk,  sugar  beets,  wine-grapes, 
etc.  etc.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that  all 
these  will  succeed  in  the  west,  if  they  will 
anywhere.  The  sugar  beet,  for  instance,  has 
been  introduced  into  Illinois,  and  cultivated  on 
an  extensive  scale.  Sugar  is  generally  brought 
from  New  Orleans,  and  is  retailed  at  from 
18 


206  MAKING    BEET    SUGAR* 

twelve  and  a  half  cents  to  thrice  that  sum. 
Illinois  must,  at  no  remote  period,  produce 
sugar  from  the  beet,  not  only  for  home  con- 
sumption, but  for  exportation  ;  and  she  may 
well  hope  to  compete  successfully  with  the 
cane-growing  districts.  Her  soil  is  precisely 
the  one  the  beet  delights  in,  especially  towards 
the  northern  part  of  the  state.  Beets  not  only 
grow  to  an  enormous  size,  but  yield  a  larger 
quantity  of  saccharine  matter  than  anywhere 
east  of  the  Alleghanies*  Every  farmer  might 
easily  raise  his  own  "  sweetening,"  at  a  tri- 
fling expense,  compared  to  what  it  shall  cost 
him  to  get  it  from  New  Orleans.  The  ex- 
pense of  the  necessary  machinery  is  trifling — 
almost  any  farmer  might  manufacture  a  grinder 
and  a  press  which  would  answer  the  purpose  ; 
and  the  pulp — which  is  the  best  article  to 
mingle  with  meal  for  the  fattening  of  cattle, — 
will  repay  the  cost  of  raising  and  harvesting. 
The  whole  process  is  very  simple,  merely 
requiring  a  little  care  and  judgment,  and  can 
readily  be  learned  from  any  of  the  many 
treatises  on  that  subject. 

Here,  too,  it  might  be  well  to  suggest  the 


PINE    LUMBER.  207 

propriety  of  taking  out  a  duplicate,  or  even 
triplicate,  set  of  farming  and  garden  tools. 
They  will  be  found  much  cheaper  in  Boston 
or  New  York,  or  even  in  Pittsburg  and  Cin- 
cinnati, than  at  St.  Louis,  Alton,  or  Chicago. 
I  have  elsewhere  spoken  of  other  articles  of 
husbandry  and  household  stuff  and  need  not 
here  repeat  it. 

It  may  not  be  amiss  to  place  in  this  chapter 
a  few  remarks  on  lumber,  buildings,  etc.,  as  it 
is   closejy   connected  with  the   growth   and 
character  of  trees.     I  have  already  said  there 
was  but  little  pine  timber  at  the  west.     The 
borders  of  the  Michigan  Lake,  and  the  upper 
water  of  the  Mississippi,  are  exceptions  to  this 
rule.     Throughout  Illinois,  with  the  excep-H 
tion  of  that  part  immediately  bordering  on   j 
Lake  Michigan,    pine  lumber  is  scarce  and   j 
costly.     At  St.  Louis  it  is  from  $50  to  $60   j 
per  M.  ;  at  Peoria  from  $60  to  $70,  and  at 
any  of  the  inland  towns  enough  more  to  pay 
for  carting.     In  the  Rock  river  county,  it  is 
worth  from  $75  to  $90.     So  that,  to  any  but 
those  of  property,  it  is  entirely  out  of  the 
question  to  use  pine  timber  in  building.     The 


208  FRAME    HOUSES  AND 

wood  of  the  country  must  be  substituted. 
Ordinarily,  lumber,  which  grows  on  the  spot, 
is  from  $25  to  $35  per  M.  at  the  mill. 
Lumber,  however,  is  fast  falling,  and  will  con- 
tinue to  do  so  as  fast  as  the  facilities  for  its  man- 
ufacture and  transportation  increase.  When 
the  great  Michigan  and  Illinois  canal  shall  be 
completed,  the  price  of  pine  lumber  anywhere 
on  the  Illinois  river,  and  as  far  down  as  St. 
Louis,  on  the  Mississippi,  will  be  reduced 
from  fifty  to  seventy  per  centum. 

I  am  satisfied  that  those  persons  who  go 
from  the  east,  and  who  propose  to  put  up  a 
frame  house  at  the  west,  would  find  it  to  their 
advantage  to  buy  their  windows  all  glazed,  and 
their  doors  all  finished,  and  perhaps  their  floor 
boards  and  finishing  stuff,  where  they  are, — or 
else  at  Pittsburg  or  Cincinnati, — and  have 
them  well  and  closely  packed,  and  shipped  to 
the  nearest  point  of  water  communication. 
They  will  cost  no  more,  certainly,  and  will 
be  much  better  than  can  be  found  in  the 
neighborhood  of  their  location. 

I  should  also  recommend  the  erection  of 
rrame  houses,  where  lumber  can  be  obtained 


1 

LOG    H00SES.  "209 

suitable  for  the  purpose.  Frame  houses  are 
far  more  comfortable,  and  present  a  much 
more  comfortable  appearance.  I  have  seen 
many  very  comfortable  log  houses,  but  such 
invariably  cost  more  than  a  frame  house  of  the 
same  size.  In  some  places  lumber  is  not  ta 
be  obtained  at  all,  and  in  such  cases  the  only 
shelter  must  be  the  log  cabin.  These  may 
be  made  tolerably  inhabitable  with  pains.  The 
door  and  other  apertures  should  be  opposite 
each  other,  the  chimney  at  the  end  ;  and  if  a 
double  cabin,  or  one  of  two  rooms,  is  designed^ 
a  space  of  ten  or  twelve  feet  between  them 
should  be  left,  and  roofed  over.  Forks  may 
be  set  in  the  ground,  and  porches  or  sheds 
may  be  made  on  the  sides,  eight  feet  in  width. 
The  cost  is  trifling,  and  they  add  greatly  to 
the  coolness  of  the  dwelling  in  summer,  and 
its  warmth  in  winter,  besides  protecting  the 
body  of  the  house  from  rains.  Hundreds  of 
cabins  are  made  without  a  nail  or  particle  of 
iron  about  them,  or  a  single  piece  of  sawed 
plank. 

They  are  constructed  after  the  following 
manner  :    Straight  trdes  are  felled  of  a  size 
18* 


210  HOW    CONSTRUCTED. 

that  a  common  team  can  draw,  or,  as  the 
phrase  is,  "  snake  "  them  to  the  intended  spot. 
The  common  form  of  a  large  cabin  is  that 
called  a  u  double  cabin  ;"  that  is,  two  square 
pens,  with  an  open  space  between,  connected 
by  a  roof  above  and  a  floor  below,  so  as  to 
form  a  parallelogram  of  nearly  triple  the  length 
of  its  depth.  In  the  open  space  the  family 
take  their  meals  during  the  pleasant  weather  ; 
and  it  serves  the  threefold  purpose  of  kitchen, 
lumber-room,  and  dining-room.  The  logs  of 
which  it  is  composed,  are  notched  on  to  one 
another  in  the  form  of  a  square.  The  roof  is 
covered  with  thin  splits  of  oak,  not  unlike 
staves.  Sometimes  they  are  made  of  ash, 
and,  in  the  lower  country,  of  cypress  ;  and 
they  are  called  clapboards.  Instead  of  being 
nailed,  they  are  generally  confined  in  their 
place  by  heavy  timber,  laid  at  right  angles 
across  them.  This  gives  the  roof  of  a  cabin 
a  unique  and  shaggy  appearance  ;  but  if  the 
clapboards  have  been  carefully  prepared  from 
good  timber,  they  form  a  roof  sufficiently  im- 
pervious to  common  rains.  The  floors  are 
made  from  short  and  thick  plank,  split  from 


ANIMALS,  2U 

the  yellow  poplar,  cottonwood,  black  walnut, 
and  sometimes  oak.  They  are  confined  with 
wooden  pins,  and  are  technically  called 
"puncheons."  If  an  emigrant  can  furnish  a 
few  pounds  of  nails,  and  a  dozen  panes  of 
glass,  he  may  add  to  his  comforts  ;  and  if  a 
saw-mill  is  near,  and  plank  or  boards  cheap, 
he  may  save  himself  the  labor  of  splitting  pun- 
cheons or  slabs  for  floors  and  doors.  In  ad- 
dition to  the  cabin,  he  will  need  a  meat-house, 
a  corn-crib,  and  stables,  all  built  of  logs  in  the 
same  rough  manner. 

I  will  close  this  miscellaneous  chapter  with 
some  remarks  on  animals,  which  may  be  as- 
useful  to  the  raiser  of  stock,  as  pleasing  to 
the  sportsman.  I  have  gleaned  them  from 
the  best  authorities. 

There  are  several  kinds  of  wild  animals  in 
the  state  of  Illinois  :  of  these,  the  principal 
and  most  numerous  are  deer,  wolves,  raccoons, 
opossums,  etc.  etc.  Several  species  formerly 
common  have  become  scarce,  and  are  con- 
stantly retreating  before  the  march  of  civiliza- 
tion ;  and  some  are  no  .longer  to  be  found. 
The  buffalo  has  entirely  left  the  limits  of  the 


212,  DEER. 

state,  and  indeed  all  the  settled  parts  of  the 
western  country,  and  is  now  found  only  on 
the  head-waters  of  the    Mississippi   and   its 
tributaries,  and  on  the  vast  prairies  west  of  the 
Missouri  river.     This  animal  once  roamed  at 
large  over  the  plains  of  Illinois  ;  and,  so  late 
as  the  commencement  of  the  present  century, 
was  found  in  considerable  numbers  ;  and  tra- 
ces of  them  are  still  remaining  in  the  buffalo 
paths,  which  are  to  be  seen  in  several  parts  of 
the    state.      These   are    well-beaten    tracks, 
leading  generally  from  the  prairies  in  the  inte- 
rior of  the  state  to  the  margins  of  the  large 
rivers,  showing  the  course  of  their  migrations 
as  they  changed  their  pastures   periodically, 
from  the  low  marshy  alluvion,  to  the  dry  up- 
land plains.     Their  paths  are  narrow,  and  re- 
markably   direct,    showing    that   the    animals 
travelled  in  single  file  through  the  woods,  and 
pursued  the  most  direct  course  to  their  places 
of  destination. 

Deer  are  more  abundant  than  at  the  first 
settlement  of  the  country.  They  increase,  to 
a  certain  extent,  with  the  population.  The 
reason  of  this  appeal's  to  be,  that  they  find  pro- 


MANNER    OF    HUNTING.  213 

tection  in  the  neighborhood  of  man  from  the 
beasts  of  prey  that  assail  them  in  the  wilder- 
ness, and  from  whose  attacks  their  young  par- 
ticularly can  with  difficulty  escape.  They 
suffer  most  from  the  wolves,  who  hunt  in 
packs,  like  hounds,  and  who  seldom  give  up 
the  chase  until  the  deer  is  taken. 

Immense  numbers  of  deer  are  killed  every 
year  by  the  hunters,  who  take  them  for  the 
hams  and  skins  alone,  throwing  away  the  rest 
of  the  carcase.  Yenison  hams  and  hides  are 
important  articles  of  export.  Fresh  hams 
usually  sell  at  from  seventyfive  cents  to  one 
dollar  and  fifty  cents  a  pair,  and  when  properly 
cured,  are  a  delicious  article  of  food. 

There  are  several  ways  of  hunting  deer,  all 
of  which  are  equally  simple.  Most  generally 
the  hunter  proceeds  to  the  woods  on  horse- 
back, in  the  day  time,  selecting  particularly 
certain  hours  which  are  thought  to  be  most 
favorable.  It  is  said,  that  during  the  season 
when  the  pastures  are  green,  this  animal  rises 
from  its  lair  precisely  at  the  rising  of  the  moon, 
whether  in  the  day  or  night ;  such  is  the  uni- 
form testimony  of  experienced  hunters.  If  it 


214  SALT-LICKS. 

be  true,  it  is  certainly  a  curious  display  of 
animal  instinct.  This  hour,  therefore,  is 
always  kept  in  view  by  the  hunter,  as  he  rides 
slowly  through  the  forest  with  his  rifle  on  his 
shoulder,  while  his  keen  eye  penetrates  the 
surrounding  shades.  On  beholding  a  deer, 
the  hunter  slides  from  his  horse,  and  while  the 
deer  is  observing  the  latter,  creeps  upon  him, 
keeping  the  largest  trees  between  himself  and 
the  object  of  pursuit,  until  he  gets  near  enough 
to  fire.  An  expert  woodsman  seldom  fails  to 
hit  his  game. 

Another  mode  is,  to  watch  at  night,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  salt-licks.  These  are 
spots  where  the  earth  is  impregnated  with 
saline  particles,  or  where  the  salt-water  oozes 
through  the  soil.  Deer  and  other  grazing 
animals  frequent  such  places,  and  remain  for 
hours  licking  the  earth,  The  hunter  secretes 
himself  here,  either  in  the  thick  top  of  a  tree, 
or,  most  generally,  in  a  screen  erected  for  the 
purpose,  and  artfully  concealed,  like  a  masked 
battery,  with  logs  or  green  boughs.  This 
practice  is  pursued  only  in  the  summer,  or 
early  in  the  autumn,  in  cloudless  nights^  when 


DETER- SKINS'.  2151 

the  moon  shines  brilliantly,  and  objects  may 
be  readily  discovered.  At  the  rising  of  the 
moon,  or  shortly  after,  th^  deer,  having  risen 
from  their  beds,  approach  the  lick.  Such 
places  are  generally  bare  of  timber,  but  sur- 
rounded by  it,  and  as  the  animal  is  about  ta 
emerge  from  the  shade  into  the  clear  moon- 
light, he  stops,  looks  cautiously  around,  and 
snuffs  the  air.  Then  he  advances  a  few  steps, 
stops,  and  stops  again,  smells  the  ground,  or 
raises  his  expanded  nostrils,  as  if  he  u  snuffed 
the  approach  of  danger  in  every  tainted 
breeze."  The  hunter  sits  motionless,  and 
almost  breathless,  waiting  until  the  animal 
shall  get  within  rifle-shot,  and  until  its  position 
in  relation  to  the  hunter  and  the  light,  shall  be 
favorable,  when  he  fires  with  an  unerring  aim, 
A  few  deer  only  can  be  thus  killed  in  one 
night,  and  after  a  few  nights  these  timorous 
animals  are  driven  from  the  haunts  which  are 
thus  disturbed. 

Many  of  the  frontier  people  dress  deer- 
skins, and  make  them  into  pantaloons  and 
hunting-shirts.  These  articles  are  indispensa- 
ble to  all  who  have  occasion  to  travel  in  view- 


216  BEARS    AND    WOLVES. 

ing  land,  or  for  any  other  purpose,  beyond  the 
settlements,  as  cloth  garments,  in  the  shrubs 
and  vines,  would  soon  be  in  strings. 

It  is  a  novel  and  pleasant  sight  to  a  stranger, 
to  see  the  deer  in  flocks  of  eight,  ten,  or 
fifteen  in  number,  feeding  on  the  grass  of  the 
prairies,  or  bounding  away  at  the  sight  of  a 
traveller. 

The  elk  has  disappeared.  A  few  have  been 
seen  in  late  years,  and  some  taken  ;  but  it  is 
not  known  that  any  remain  at  this  time,  within 
ihe  limits  of  the  state. 

The  bear  is  seldom  seen.  This  animal 
inhabits  those  parts  of  the  country  that  are 
thickly  wooded,  and  delights  particularly  in 
the  cane-brakes,  where  it  feeds  in  the  winter 
on  the  tender  shoots  of  the  young  cane.  The 
meat  is  tender  and  finely  flavored,  and  is 
esteemed  a  great  delicacy. 

Wolves  are  numerous  in  most  parts  of  the 
state.  There  are  two  kinds  —  the  common 
or  black  wolf,  and  the  prairie  wolf.  The 
former  is  a  large,  fierce  animal,  and  very  de- 
structive to  sheep,  pigs,  calves,  poultry,  and 
even  young  colts.  They  hunt  in  packs,  and 


EFFECT    OF    ASSAFCETIDA.  217 

after  using  every  stratagem  to  circumvent  their 
prey,  attack  it  with  remarkable  ferocity. 
Like  the  Indian,  they  always  endeavor  to  sur- 
prise their  victim,  and  strike  the  mortal  blow 
without  exposing  themselves  to  danger.  They 
seldom  attack  man,  except  when  asleep  or 
wounded.  The  largest  animals,  when  wound- 
ed, entangled,  or  otherwise  disabled,  become 
their  prey  ;  but  in  general  they  only  attack 
such  as  are  incapable  of  resistance.  Their 
most  common  prey  is  the  deer,  which  they 
hunt  regularly  ;  but  all  defencless  animals  are 
alike  acceptable  to  their  ravenous  appetites. 
When  tempted  by  hunger  they  approach  the 
farm-houses  in  the  night,  and  snatch  their  prey 
from  under  the  very  eye  of  the  farmer  ;  and 
when  the  latter  is  absent  with  his  dogs,  the 
wolf  is  sometimes  seen  by  the  females  lurking 
about  in  mid-day,  as  if  aware  of  the  unprotect- 
ed state  of  the  family. 

The  smell  of  burning  assafcetida  has  a  re- 
markable effect  upon  this  animal.  If  a  fire  be 
made  in  the  woods,  and  a  portion  of  this  drug 
thrown  into  it,  so  as  to  saturate  the  atmosphere 
with  the  odor,  the  wolves,  if  any  are  within 
19 


218  FOX   AND    PANTHER. 

reach  of  the  scent,  immediately  assemble 
around,  howling  in  the  most  mournful  manner  ; 
and  such  is  the  remarkable  fascination  under 
which  they  seem  to  labor,  that  they  will  often 
suffer  themselves  to  be  shot  down  rather  than 
leave  the  spot.  The  prairie  wolf  is  a  smaller 
species,  but  little  larger  than  a  fox,  and  takes 
its  name  from  its  habit  of  residing  entirely 
upon  the  open  plains.  Even  when  hunted 
with  dogs,  it  will  make  circuit  after  circuit 
round  the  prairie,  carefully  avoiding  the  forest, 
or  only  dashing  into  it  occasionally  when  hard 
pressed,  and  then  returning  to  the  plain.  In 
size  and  appearance  this  animal  is  midway 
between  the  wolf  and  the  fox,  and  in  color  it 
resembles  the  latter,  being  of  a  very  light  red. 
It  preys  upon  poultry,  rabbits,  young  pigs, 
calves,  &c.  The  most  friendly  relations  sub- 
sist between  it  and  the  common  wolf,  and  they 
constantly  hunt  in  packs  together.  Nothing 
is  more  common  than  to  see  a  large  black 
wolf  in  company  with  several  prairie  wolves. 
The  fox  abounds  in  some  places  in  great 
numbers,  though,  generally  speaking,  the 


WILD    HORSES.  219 

animal  is  scarce.  It  will  undoubtedly  increase 
with  the  population. 

The  panther  and  wild  cat  are  occasionally 
found  in  the  forests.  The  open  country  is 
not  well  suited  to  their  shy  habits,  and  they 
are  less  frequently  seen  than  in  the  neighbor- 
ing states. 

The  beaver  and  otter  were  once  numerous, 
but  are  now  seldom  seen,  except  on  the  fron- 
tiers. 

There  are  no  rats,  except  along  the  large 
rivers,  where  they  have  landed  from  the  boats. 

Wild  horses  are  found  ranging  the  prairies 
and  forests  in  some  parts  of  the  state.  They 
are  small  in  size,  of  the  Indian  or  Canadian 
breed,  and  very  hardy.  They  are  caught  in 
pens,  or  with  ropes  having  nooses  attached  to 
them,  and  broken  to  the  saddle  and  harness. 
The  French,  who  monopolize  the  business  of 
catching  and  breaking  these  horses,  make 
them  an  article  of  traffic  ;  their  common  price 
is  from  twenty  to  thirty  dollars.  They  are 
found  chiefly  in  the  lower  end  of  the  American 
bottom,  near  the  junction  of  the  Kaskaskia 
and  Mississippi  rivers,  called  the  Point. 


220  THE    GOPHAR. 

They  are  the  offspring  of  the  horses  brought 
there  by  the  first  settlers,  and  which  were 
suffered  to  run  at  large.  The  Indians  of  the 
west  have  many  such  horses,  which  are  com- 
monly called  Indian  ponies. 

The  gray  and  fox  squirrels  often  do  mis- 
chief in  the  corn-fields,  and  the  hunting  of 
them  makes  fine  sport  for  the  boys.  It  is  a 
rule  amongst  the  Kentuckyrifle  men  to  shoot 
a  squirrel  only  through  his  eyes,  and  that  from 
the  tops  of  the  highest  trees  of  the  forest.  It 
is  evidence  of  a  bad  marksman,  for  a  hunter  to 
hit  one  in  any  other  part. 

The  gophar  is  a  singular  little  animal,  about 
the  size  of  a  squirrel.  It  burrows  in  the 
ground,  is  seldom  seen,  but  its  works  make  it 
known.  It  lab,ors  during  the  night,  in  digging 
subterranean  passages  in  the  rich  soil  of  the 
prairies,  and  throws  up  hillocks  of  fresh  earth, 
within  a  few  feet  distance  from  each  other, 
and  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  in  height. 
They  form  these  by  removing  the  earth  from 
their  holes,  by  means  of  a  pouch  with  which 
nature  has  furnished  them  on  each  side  of  their 
mouth  ;  a  dozen  of  these  hillocks  have  been 


1-  RABBITS.  221 

seen,  the  production  of  one  night's  labor,  and 
apparently  from  a  single  gophar.  The  passa- 
ges are  formed  in  such  a  labyrinth,  that  it  is  a 
difficult  matter  to  find  tbe  animal  by  digging. 
They  are  very  mischievous  in  corn  and  potato 
fields,  and  in  gardens  they  prey  upon  all  kinds 
of*  bulbous  roots.  Their  bite  is  said  to  be 
poisonous. 

The  polecat  is  very  destructive  to  poultry. 

The  raccoon  and  opossum  are  very  nume- 
rous, and  extremely  troublesome  to  the  farmer, 
as  they  not  only  attack  his  poultry,  but  plunder 
his  corn-fields.  They  are  hunted  by  boys, 
and  large  numbers  of  them  destroyed.  The 
skins  of  the  raccoon  pay  well  for  the  trouble 
of  taken  them,  as  the  fur  is  in  demand.  - 

Rabbits  are  very  abundant,  and  in  some 
places  extremely  destructive  to  the  young 
orchards  and  to  garden  vegetables.  The 
fence  around  a  nursery  must  always  be  so 
close  as,  to  shut  out  rabbits,  and  young  apple- 
trees  must  be  secured  at  the  approach  of  win- 
ter, by  tying  straw  or  corn  stalks  around  their 
bodies,  for  two  or  three  feet  in  height,  or  the 
19 


222  PARTRIDGES    AND    BEES. 

bark  will  be  stripped  off  by  these  mischievous 
animals. 

The  ponds,  lakes  and  rivers,  during  the 
migration  season  of  water-fowls,  are  literally 
covered  with  swans,  pelicans,  crane?,  geese, 
brants,  and  ducks,  of  all  the  tribes  and  varie- 
ties. Many  of  these  fowls  rear  their  young  on 
the  islands  and  sand-bars  of  the  large  rivers. 
In  -the  autumn,  multitudes  of  them  are  killed 
for  their  quills,  feathers,  and  flesh. 

The  prairie  fowl  is  seen  in  great  numbers 
on  the  prairies  in  the  summer,  and  about  the 
corn-fields  in  the  winter.  This  is  the  grouse 
of  the  New  York  market.  They  are  easily 
taken  in  the  winter,  and  when  fat  are  excellent 
for  the  table. 

Partridges  (the  quail  of  New  England)  are 
taken  with  nets,  in  the  winter,  by  hundreds  in 
a  day,  and  furnish  no  trifling  item  in  the  luxu- 
ries of  the  city  market. 

Bees  are  to  be  found  in  the  trees  of  every 
forest.  Many  of  the  frontier  people  make  it 
a  prominent  business,  after  the  frost  has  killed 
the  vegetation,  to  hunt  them  for  the  honey  and 
wax,  both  of  which  find  a  ready  market. 


POISONOUS  REPTILES.        223 

Bees  are  profitable  stock  for  the  farmer,  and 
are  kept  to  a  considerable  extent. 

Poisonous  reptiles  are  not  so  common  as  in 
unsettled  regions  of  the  same  latitude,  where 
the  country  is  generally  timbered.  Burning 
the  prairies  undoubtedly  destroys  multitudes  of 
them. 


224  CLAIMS. 


CHAPTER    XV. 

On  Claims,  Pre-emption,  etc. — Public  Lands— Squatters— 
Associations  for  mutual  aid  and  defence — Quantity  of  land 
to  be  claimed — Conditions  of  holding  claim— Title,  how 
to  be  obtained— Public  Sale — Simple  machinery— Policy  of 
government. 

I  HAVE  been  asked  repeatedly  to  explain 
the  nature  of  claims,  pre-emption  rights,  and 
the  various  parts  of  the  machinery  by  which 
settlers  on  government  land  are  protected,  and 
the  title  to  their  land  secured. 

Certain  tracts  of  land  in  the  northern  part  of 
Illinois  and  the  adjoining  states  and  territories, 
are  as  yet  out  of  the  market.  Some  of  them 
are  not  surveyed  at  all,  others  have  been  sur- 
veyed by  the  government  board  of  engineers. 
These  lands  belong  to  the  United  States. 
From  time  to  time  certain  portions  of  this 
land  are  brought  into  market,  at  which  time  all 
tracts  of  land  not  entered  agreeably  to  the  ex- 
isting pre-emption  law,  are  put  up  at  auction 
and  sold  to  the  highest  bidder. 

These  lands  are  generally  all  taken  up  long 


SQUATTERS.  225 

before  they  are  brought  into  market.  The 
people  thus  occupying  the  government  land 
are  denominated  u  Squatters,"  in  common 
parlance  —  in  law  u  Settlers."  So  soon  as 
some  half-dozen  men  have  settled  themselves 
down  in  a  neighborhood,  and  laid  claim  to  the 
soil,  or  more  appropriately,  to  the  right  of 
pre-emption  —  they  form  themselves  into  an 
Association,  each  member  signing  a  constitu- 
tion by  which  they  pledge  themselves  to  abide. 
This  constitution  decides  the  manner  in  which 
claims  shall  be  made  in  the  territory  —  it 
embraces  the  quantity  of  land  and  the  condi- 
tions on  which  it  shall  be  held.  They  thus 
become  necessary  to  each  other,  and  stand  by 
each  other,  while  if  any  one  of  the  Associa- 
tion fails  to  fulfil  his  part  of  the  mutual  con- 
tract, they  permit  and  encourage  any  one  to 
"jump"  or  supersede  him,  and  defend  him 
therein.  Formerly  when  land  was  more  plen- 
ty, each  member  was  permitted  to  claim  640 
acres  (or  a  section,  one  mile  square)  of  prairie, 
and  160  acres  of  woodland,  called  always  at  the 
west,  "timber."  Associations  are  reducing 


226  CONDITIONS    OF    CLAIMS. 

the  quantity  one  half,  i.  e.  320  and  80  acres, 
as  above. 

The  conditions  of  holding  the  claim  are  in 
all  cases,  I  believe,  that  the  settler  or  claimant, 
shall  first  sign  the  constitution  and  become  a 
member  of  the  Association.  Then  he  shall 
plough  a  distinct  furrow  completely  round  his 
claim,  or  stake  it  out  in  a  plain  and  durable 
manner.  Then  within  a  limited  period  he 
shall  break  up  a  certain  portion  of  prairie  (say 
20  acres)  and  fence  it,  and  put  up  a  suitable 
house  for  habitation.  But  all  this  is  nothing 
unless  he  become  an  actual  resident.  He  may 
put  an  agent  thereon,  and  thus  hold  it,  if  the 
agent  be  trustworthy  ;  but  if  that  agent  be 
unfaithful  and  lay  claim  to  said  tract,  unless 
the  actual  claimant  come  and  take  possession, 
the  agent  enters  into  the  right  and  holds  it  as 
his  own  claim. 

These  lands  are  held  by  mutual  consent  and 
the  forbearance  of  government,  which  has 
indeed  encouraged  this  kind  of  immigration. 
The  settlers  have  no  title  whatever,  and  in 
conveying  them  only  give  a  quit-claim  to  the 
right  of  claimance.  The  title  is  to  be  obtain- 


SETTLERS    PROTECTED.  227 

ed  when  the  land  shall  have  been  bought  of 
government,  and  directly  under  the  seal  of  the 
United  States.  The  purchaser  only  pays  for 
the  claim,  he  must  defend  it  and  secure  his 
land  when  it  comes  into  market,  as  the  first 
occupant  would  have  been  obliged  to  do. 
But  he  is  protected  in  the  same  manner  by 
the  Association,  one  of  which  he  becomes  on 
purchasing. 

Many  have  supposed  that  much  difficulty 
exists  in  thus  claiming  lands,  and  that  it  is  a 
dangerous  piece  of  business.  But  I  can  assure 
my  reader,  there  is  not  the  least  danger  of 
losing  title  or  life.  Every  thing  relating  to 
the  whole  business  is  understood  in  the  whole 
community,  and  the  mutual  laws  which  they 
have  framed  for  their  own  management  are 
sufficient,  in  the  absence  of  all  other  law,  as 
must  necessarily  be  the  case  there,  to  restrain 
all  violence  and  to  protect  each  settler  in  his 
rights. 

Although  there  may  seem  to  the  stranger  to 
be  a  deal  of  complication  in  this  machinery, 
yet  I  can  assure  him  it  is  extremely  simple  ; 
and  that  every  one  knowing,  as  he  does,  the 


228  PRE-EMPTION    LAw. 

exact  method  of  its  operation,  there  is  seldom 
any  derangement  at  all,  and  never  sufficient  to 
affect  the  whole  machine.  No  one  who  goes 
there  would  dream  from  actual  acquaintance 
but  that  every  thing  was  ordered  by  a  well 
regulated  civil  police  —  as  indeed  it  is,  only  it 
is  not  supported  and  administered  by  govern- 
ment. I  have  seen  no  where  more  orderly, 
industrious,  intelligent,  peace-seeking  inhabi- 
tants than  I  found  among  these  same  "  squat" 
ters."  They  are  mainly  from  New  England 
and  the  Middle  States,  with  a  u  fair  sprink- 
ling," from  the  south.  There  have  passed 
several  pre-emption  bills  in  favor  of  the  settlers 
upon  government  lands,  but  none  of  which  are 
as  liberal  as  they  deserve  to  be.  The  policy 
of  goverment  has  been,  hitherto,  liberal 
towards  the  original  settlers,  but  of  late  a  nar- 
rower policy  seems  to  have  prevailed. 

A  pre-emption  law,  framed  alike  favorable 
to  government  and  the  settler,  would  be  a 
great  and  mutual  blessing,  and  the  time  is  not 
remote,  I  hope,  when  such  an  one  shall  be 
devised  and  successfully  carried  through  both 
branches  of  the  national  legislature. 


ACTUAL  SETTLERS  PROTECTED.    229 

The  intention  of  a  pre-emption  bill  is  to 
protect  the  actual  settler  from  the  assaults  of 
the  mere  speculator,  so  that  he  may  have  the 
right  to  enter  and  pay  for  his  land  before  and 
in  preference  to  any  one  else,  at  the  govern- 
ment price  of  $1,25  per  acre. 


20 


230  CROSSING    THE    FERRT. 


CONCLUSION. 


HAVING  made  arrangements  with  our  Rock  river 
Jehu,  the  Dutchman  of  former  notice,  to  take  me  to 
Peoria.  punctual  to  the  time  he  roused  me  from  my 
slumbers  at  an  hour  before  dawn,  and  mounting 
again  our  lumbering  vehicle  I  bade  adieu  to  the 
pleasant  little  town  of  Tremont,  where  I  had 
formed  many  pleasant  acquaintances,  and  with 
whom  my  parting  would  have  been  far  more  pain- 
ful but  for  the  conviction  that  I  should  ere  long 
again  press  their  friendly  hands.  We  found  the 
morning  air  delicious,  and  enjoyed  it  with  a  double 
zest  as  the  clear  calm  rising  of  the  sun  portended  a 
hot  and  sultry  day.  We  reached  the  river  and 
having  roused  the  ferryman,  we  embarked  "  to 
cross  the  ferry."  While  our  man  of  the  boat  tug- 
ged at  the  rope  by  which  he  drew  us  over  the  slug- 
gish stream,  w<}  chatted  with  him  of  matters  pertain- 
ing to  his  vocation.  He  told  us  that  it  was  mighty 
sickly  there,  every  body  had  "  the  chills  and  fever." 
By  every  body  we  suppose  he  meant  those  in  the 
same  employment  as  himself,  as  his  knowledge  could 
have  extended  but  little  further.  1  was  struck  with 
the  air  of  pride  with  which  he  boasted  of  his  own 
iron  health.  "These  suckers"  —  a  term  applied 
generally  to  settlers  in  Illinois  —  "are  a  tame  race 
—  they  can't  bear  a  mighty  severe  scraghin.  Why, 
where  I  was  raised,  in  old  Kentuck,  if  a  man  should 
ketch  the  chills  he'd  be  laughed  at.  Why,  1  could 
lie  in  this  river  every  night  and  not  be  sick,  I  reck- 
on. But  let  a  gentle  dew  fall  on  a  sucker,  and 


ELECTION ALIEN  VOTES.      231 

crack  —  he's  got  the  shakes."  He  had  no  opinion 
of  the  country  at  all,  and  recommending  him  to 
turn  right  about  face  for  "old  Kentuck,"  we  made 
our  way  to  the  boat,  which  was  advertised  to  start 
at  eight  o'clock,  A.  M.  We  were  under  weigh  at 
ten.  Our  sail  up  the  river  was  without  other  inci- 
dents,than  were  afforded  at  the  various  places  where 
the  boat  stopped,  arising  from  the  spirited  manner 
in  which  the  elections  were  going  on.  Throngs 
came  on  board  the  boat  to  learn  the  result  below, 
and  to  give  us  information  relative  to  their  own 
district.  Throughout  our  whole  course  the  Van 
Buren  ticket  prevailed.  This  was  attributed,  on 
the  part  of  the  Whigs,  to  the  free  votes  of  the  Irish, 
who  were  there  in  great  numbers,  on  the  rail-roads 
and  the  canals.  Certain  it  is,  that  many  thousand 
alien  votes  were  cast  on  one  side  or  the  other,  and 
it  was  generally  supposed  that  they  were  thrown 
into  the  popular  scale.  There  is  a  section  in  the 
constitution  of  Illinois,  which  confers  the  right  of 
suffrage  on  any  man  over  twentyone  years  of  age, 
who  shall  have  resided  in  the  state  six  months. 
And  this  extends  alike  to  foreigners  and  native 
citizens.  It  strikes  me  as  a  deficiency  in  that  con- 
stitution, and  the  effects  were  plainly  visible  in  the 
late  election.  It  was  said  and  generally  known 
that  the  Irish  cast  in  that  state  alone  over  five  thou- 
sand votes.  These  votes  decided  the  election. 
Now  it  matters  not  on  which  side  they  voted  — 
they  plainly  had  the  power  to  take  the  management 
of  affairs  from  the  hands  of  the  large  majority,  hy 
aiding  the  minority.  Were  they  naturalized,  or 
even  settled,  there  would  be  no  injustice.  But  of 
these  five  thousand  voters,  perhaps  not  five  hundred 
of  them  will  ever  remain  in  the  state — they  will 
migrate  to  any  spot  where  their  labor  may  be  de- 
manded. It  was,  doubtless,  a  patriotic  principle 


232  VOTES    BOUGHT. 

which  prompted  the  framers  of  that  constitution  to 
make  such  a  liberal  provision,  and  had  it  been  con- 
fined to  native  citizens  of  the  United  States,  had 
been  well  enough,  but  it  seems  palpably  evident, 
that  there  is  no  justice  in  permitting  aliens,  men 
who  have  not  a  farthing  at  stake,  who  have  nothing 
to  lose  and  no  more  to  gain,  to  manage  the  affairs 
of  those  who  are  owners  of  their  native  soil,  and 
whose  whole  interests  are  thus  taken  out  of  their 
hands  and  put  beyond  their  own  disposal.  It  is  to 
be  hoped  that  some  future  legislature  will  see  the 
unjust  operation  of  this  law  and  so  change  its  ac- 
tion, that  none,  at  least,  but  such  as  have  some 
stake  at  issue,  shall  have  the  right  of  suffrage. 

It  certainly  exhibits  a  fearful  state  of  things, 
when  such  men,  not  only  aliens,  but  men  of  the 
greatest  ignorance  and  the  most  degraded  charac- 
ter, can  be  brought  to  bear  with  the  same  power 
on  the  destinies  of  our  nation,  as  the  same  number 
of  intelligent  and  patriotic  citizens.  It  is  a  sad 
conviction  which  has  fastened  on  the  public  mind 
by  actual  demonstration,  that  these  hordes  of  aliens 
are  at  the  entire  disposal  of  each  and  every  designing 
demagogue,  in  an  overgrown  and  dominant  party. 
Who  can  doubt  that  $20,000  would  have  BOUGHT 
every  one  of  those  5000  votes  ?  And  what  is 
$20,000,  when  office  and  reputation  are  at  stake 
with  a  whole  party  —  especially  when  that  party  is 
driven  to  desperation  by  having  just  played  a  ruin- 
ous game.  I  make  no  application  of  these  hypoth- 
eses—  I  say  not  that  such  things  have  ever  been 
done  ;  but  it  seems  clear  that  a  most  unholy  perver- 
sion of  the  public  funds  might  thus  be  made,  and  a 
tremendous  support  be  thus  purchased  to  a  wicked 
and  anti-national  coalition: — and  it  does  seem  that 
this  subject  cannot  be  brought  before  the  injured 
citizens  of  this  populous  and  growing  state  — 


PERU MUSQUITOES.  233 

which  is  becoming  a  very  Hercules  of  the  west  and 
the  Union,  already  casting  aside  its  swaddling 
hands  —  too  frequently,  or  too  forcibly. 

We  reached  Peru,  which,  at  the  lower  stages  of 
water  is  at  the  head  waters  of  steamboat  navigation, 
about  dark.  Peru  is  destined  to  become  a  large 
town.  The  great  northern  and  southern  railroad 
crosses  the  Illinois  river  at  this  junction.  This  will 
carry  an  immense  travel  through  the  place.  It  is 
likewise  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  great  canal 
which  is  now  in  a  state  of  forwardness.  This 
canal,  which  is  to  be  on  a  grand  scale  and  of  suffi- 
cient size  for  small  steamboats,  connects  the  waters 
of  Lake  Michigan,  and  through  them  the  waters  of 
all  the  great  chain  of  lakes,  with  the  Mississippi, 
via  the  Illinois  river.  Thus  bringing  the  whole 
southern  and  northern  trade  to  a  focus  in  this  spot.  \ 
Peru  is  said  by  many  to  be  unhealthy,  which  the 
residents  on  the  spo't  stoutly  affirm  to  be  highly  ' 
libellous.  Still  I  need  further  proof  that  it  is  not 
generally  unhealthy  on  that  river  —  not  so  sickly, 
however,  that  it  need  be  shunned  by  those  who  are 
disposed  and  determined  to  take  care  of  their  health. 

As  we  rode  through  the  rich  bottom  which  lies 
on  the  west  bank  for  many  miles  up  the  river, 
and  which  is  annually  flooded  with  water,  we 
could  not  but  be  struck  with  the  wonderful  growth 
of  vegetation.  The  moon  was  at  its  full,  and  pour- 
ed a  flood  of  light  upon  the  scene  turning  the  night 
almost  into  day.  The  weeds  and  grass  on  either 
side  of  the  way  —  the  road  was  just  wide  enough 
for  one  carriage  —  was  even  with  the  top  of  the 
coach,  shutting  out  our  vision  as  effectually  as  if 
we  had  been  encased  within  walls  of  stone.  In 
these  bottoms  swarm  such  hosts  of  rnusquitoes  as 
New  England  men  never  dreamed  of.  They  fairly 
made  it  difficult  to  breathe,  and  silence  was  imposed 

20* 


234  OTTAWA MIDNIGHT. 


from  very  fear  of  inhaling  them  with  our  breath. 
They  were  not  to  be  endured  ;  and  hot  as  it  was,  we 
closed  the  curtains,  and  smoked  them  out  with 
cigars  —  the  only  mode  of  riddance.  However, 
we  soon  reached  the  high  prairie,  and  were  no  more 
disturbed  by  this  kind  of  vermin.  Midnight  found 
us  at  Ottawa,  which,  seen  though  it  was,  by  moon- 
light and  at  the  hour  of  midnight,  presented  a  beau- 
tiful and  even  brisk  appearance.  We  stopped  to 
change  horses  at  a  new  and  splendid  hotel,  and 
took  meanwhile  a  birds'  eye  view  of  the  place. 
This  is  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation  at  high  wa- 
ter, and  can  always  be  reached  with  boats  of  the 
smaller  class.  We  noticed  a  large  block  of  brick 
buildings,  three  stories  high  nearly  finished,  and 
many  others  in  every  stage  of  advancement.  This 
is  a  very  thriving  place  and  has  been  built  up  with 
a  magic  that  can  but  astonish  any  one. 

We  were  awakened  at  daylight  from  a  refresh- 
ing slumber — do  not  fancy,  gentle  reader,  that 
because  you  cannot  sleep  sweetly  on  your  beds  of 
down,  that  a  stage  coach  on  a  western  prairie  is  no 
place  to  invite  successfully  the  drowsy  god,  for  it 
is  a  great  mistake.  Do  you  ask  for  proof?  Go, 
as  I  did,  ride  three  hundred  miles  in  heat  such  as 
you  little  wot  of,  on  a  bare  axletree,  with  no  other 
spring  beneath  you  but  the  earth  and  solid  white 
oak  and  iron.  Then  make  one  of  a  corps  of  engi- 
neers, and  tramp  for  eight  or  ten  consecutive  days, 
over  burning  prairies,  through  bogs  and  fens  and 
tangled  grass,  through  wood  and  dale  —  then  if  you 
would  not  sleep  in  a  western  stage  coach,  you  will 
ask  for  proof  in  vain.  Soundly  and  sweetly  did  J 
sleep,  until,  as  I  was  saying,  we  were  aroused  from 
our  slumber  at  daylight,  by  the  falling  of  one  of  our 
horses,  which  was  thoroughly  "done  up"  and  unfit 
to  proceed  further.  So  our  coaches  —  a  mere  boy 


JULIET DES    PLAINES    RIVER.       235 

and  as  uufit  to  have  care  of  even  the  miserable 
hacks  which  dragged  us  along  at  the  rate  of  three 
miles  per  hour,  as  a  tinker  the  care  of  the  human 
system  —  turned  him  loose,  and  proceeded  to  our 
next  relay  with  his  team  of  three,  which  could  not 
be  induced  to  exceed  the  pace  of  a  smart  snail. 

We  reached  the  beautiful  town  of  Juliet  a  little 
before  noon,  and  had  a  good  opportunity  of  seeing 
the  wonders  of  the  place.  For  miles  before  we 
reached  Juliet,  the  limestone  formation  projected 
to  the  surface  of  the  ground,  which  was  strewed 
over  with  the  broken  fragments  of  the  rock.  I 
noticed  also,  an  unusual  nu mber  of  boulders  scatter- 
ed all  around.  This  is  the  height  of  land  between 
the  lake  and  the  river  in  the  line  of  the  canal,  and 
the  valley  of  the  Des  Plaines  river.  It  is  twenty- 
five  feet  only,  above  the  water  level  at  Peru,  and 
consequently  the  whole  line  of  canal  of  one  hundred 
and  seventy  miles  will  require  buttwo  locks  each  of 
thirteen  feet;  and  each  in  this  place.  Here  appears 
to  have  formerly  been  the  most  formidable  barrier 
to  tbe  descent  of  the  waters  of  the  great  lakes,  and 
here  seems  to  be  abundant  evidence  that  at  some 
very  remote  period  the  waters  broke  over  this 
bound,  and  carrying  away  all  the  earth  left  the 
naked  rock  nearly  as  we  find  it.  The  road  along 
the  channel  thus  made  by  the  waters  lies  upon  a 
ridge  of  limestone  twenty  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
valley,  and  from  fifty  to  two  hundred  feet  in  width, 
and  for  a  mile  or  two  in  length.  The  surface  of  the 
road  is  very  much  like  that  of  a  roughly  paved 
street.  Paralell  to  this  road  and  near  the  town 
there  is  a  beautiful  and  very  regular  mound  of  solid 
limestone  covered  with  a  thin  coat  of  soil.  It  is 
half  a  mile  in  length,  fifty  feet  high,  and  nearly,  as 
J  should  judge,  three  hundred  feet  wide  at  the  base. 
The  mound  is  as  regularly  formed  as  if  it  had  been 


236  CHICAGO. 


made  by  hand,  and  this  has  led  many  to  the  hasty 
conclusion  that  it  was  indeed  the  result  of  manual 
effort.  But  a  moment's  examination  where  the 
mound  has  been  broken  will  show  the  regular  lay- 
ers of  limestone  just  as  they  were  placed  by  the  great 
Architect. 

Juliet  possesses  many  advantages,  which,  in 
spite  of  the  rugged  nature  of  the  soil  in  the  imme- 
diate neighborhood,  must  cause  it  to  increase 
most  rapidly.  Manufacturing  is  already  intro- 
duced, and  the  vast  amount  of  building  material, 
will  greatly  aid  in  building  up  the  place.  Most 
beautiful  quarries  of  limestone  —  a  coarse  white 
marble  —  lie  beneath  the  immediate  soil.  I  saw  a 
large  number  of  huge  and  beautiful  blocks  just 
quarried,  and  which  were  intended  for  the  locks  on 
the  canal.  I  noticed  several  rich  blocks  of  stores 
and  dwelling  houses  built  with  the  rough  limestone 
which  gave  a  very  business  like  air  to  the  place. 
Besides,  Juliet  is  as  delightfully  situated  as  any 
town  I  saw  at  the  west.  We  reached  Chicago  late 
in  the  afternoon,  quite  willing  to  exchange  our 
dusty  stage-coach  for  a  berth  on  board  one  of  the 
capacious  lake  boats. 

I  was  very  agreeably  disappointed  in  Chicago. 
It  is  true  that  it  lies  on  a  dead  level,  and  but  a  few 
feet  above  the  waters  of  the  lake  on  whose  banks  it 
is  situated.  Hut  it  is  as  regularly  laid  out  as  the  in- 
dentations of  the  lake  and  river  would  permit,  and 
there  is  a  taste  manifested  in  the  buildings  which 
might  be  profitably  imitated  in  other  western  cities. 
The  country  around  Chicago  for  many  miles  is  a 
dead  level  prairie,  doubtless  once  the  bottom  of  the 
lake.  This  prairie  is  often  completely  inundated 
in  the  spring,  and  the  travelling  exceedingly  bad 
nearly  the  year  round.  Notwithstanding  these 
disadvantages,  Chicago  has  grown  up  into  its  pres- 


MICHIGAN    CITY.  237 

ent  condition — the  largest  town  in  Illinois — in  an 
unprecedented  manner.  From  a  dirty  village  of 
twenty  hamlets  it  has  in  four  years  grown  into  a 
large,  handsome,  city  ;  where  a  vast  amount  of 
business  is  done,  and  every  day  increasing.  Situ- 
ated as  it  is  at  the  western  end  of  the  lake,  and  the 
upper  terminus  of  the  great  canal,  it  can  but  thrive 
and  continue  to  outstrip  its  ambitious  neighbors. 

I  spent  one  day  in  Chicago,  and  had  a  fair  oppor- 
tunity of  examining  it  minutely.  We  found  two 
steamboats  bound  through  the  lakes  to  Buffalo,  be- 
tween which  existed  a  spirited  competition,  the 
captain  of  each  offering  to  carry  some  dozen  of  us 
lower  a  great  deal  than  the  other.  The  regular 
fare  is  twenty  dollars.  We  engaged  on  board  the 
New  England  for  fifteen  dollars,  although  the  other 
boat  offered  to  carry  us  for  ten.  We  preferred  our 
boat,  however,  and  had  no  occasion  to  regret  it 
afterward,  as  she  proved  to  be,  though  rather  slow, 
a  very  safe  and  comfortable  sea-boat. 

We  reached  Michigan  city  in  the  middle  of  the 
afternoon,  but  could  not  get  within  a  mile  of  it 
except  by  our  yawl.  Having  freight  to  deliver,  we 
were  obliged  to  send  it  ashore  in  a  scow.  I  had 
heard  much  of  this  place,  and  was  exceedingly  dis- 
appointed in  it.  It  can  but  prove  a  splendid  fail- 
ure. We  left  the  place  just  before  dusk,  and  in 
two  hours  after  we  come  to  the  mouth  of  a  small 
creek,  wheie  we  wooded.  We  reached  St.  Josephs, 
by  daylight  and  while  the  boat  was  taking  in  wood 
we  took  a  ramble  on  shore.  After  the  luxury  of  a 
bath  in  the  limpid  waters  of  the  lake,  we  strolled 
through  the  town,  which  is  beautifully  built  on  the 
bold  and  high  shore  of  the  lake.  It  is  a  thriving 
place,  and  destined  to  be  a  large  town,  having  a 
vast  back  country  to  sustain  it. 

At  five   o'clock,    P.  M.  next  day,   we  entered 


238  STORM   ON  THE  LAKE. 


Mauitou  Bay,  in  one  of  the  smaller  islands  of  that 
name.  Mauitou  signifies  God,  in  the  Indian  tongue, 
and  the  tradition  is  that  the  Indian's  evil  spirit,  or 
devil,  resided  here.  The  bay  is  more  beautiful 
than  any  thing  else  of  the  kind  I  ever  saw.  It  is 
three  miles  broad,  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  and  is 
sheltered  at  its  mouth  by  the  great  Mauitou  island. 
It  will  afford  some  idea  of  the  grand  size  of  these 
lakes,  when  I  say  that  in  this  bay  of  this  lesser 
island,  the  combined  navies  of  America  and  Eng- 
land might  ride  at  anchor  in  perfect  safety  and 
convenience.  The  water  near  shore  is  very  bold 
and  clear  as  crystal,  and  a  seventyfour  might 
easily  anchor  within  half  her  length  of  the  shore. 
The  shore  is  lined  with  limestone  pebbles  of  a 
small  size,  and  presents  one  of  the  clearest  and 
most  beautiful  beaches  I  ever  beheld.  It  was 
perfectly  enchanting  and  irresistible,  and  the  boat 
had  not  been  moored  ten  minutes  before  the  whole 
body  of  passengers  were  scattered  over  the  beach 
picking  up  stones  and  shells,  and  bursting  into  con- 
stant exclamations  of  delight. 

This  evening  was  as  calm,  mild  and  delightful  as 
poet  ever  wrote  of  and  afforded  a  fine  contrast  to 
the  evening  previous,  in  which  we  encountered  a 
terriffic  thunderstorm.  I  was  delighted  with  the 
chance  afforded,  to  witness  a  storm  on  the  lake. 
These  storms  are  often  dangerous,  and  come  up  so 
suddenly  as  mock  all  preparation.  We  luckily 
entered  the  mouth  of  the  Grand  river  just  as  the 
storm  struck  us.  We  lay  there  in  perfect  peace, 
and  looked  out  upon  the  troubled  waters  of  the 
lake  as  they  were  illumed  by  the  almost  incessant 
flashes  of  lightning,  which  were  more  various  and 
beautiful  than  any  similar  exhibition  I  had  ever 
witnessed.  Terrific  peals  of  thunder  broke  in  rapid 
succession  over  our  heads,  and  the  wind  howled 


LAKE    FISH DETROIT.  239 


through  our  rigging  and  the  trees  on  shore  as  if  it 
would  annihilate  us. 

We  passed  through  the  straits  of  Michilimacinac, 
just  after  daylight,  which  are  so  wide  as  scarcely  to 
admit  of  seeing  one  shore  from  the  other.  Here 
we  took  leave  of  the  beautiful  Michigan,  and 
plunged  into  the  dark  waters  of  the  turbulent  Hu- 
ron. We  passed  a  couple  of  hoXirs  at  Mackinaw, 
a  place  of  some  commerce,  and  a  very  important 
military  point  in  reference  to  these  lakes.  We  ran 
up  the  steep  hill  to  the  fort,  now  deserted  and  still 
as  a  tomb,  and  from  a  point  in  the  bastion  had  a 
most  enchanting  view  of  the  lakes  and  neighboring 
islands. 

We  had  feasted,  in  anticipation,  for  days,  on  the 
trout  and  white-fish  of  this  place,  so  famous  every- 
where ;  nor  were  we  disappointed.  Several  fine 
trout,  weighing  each  fifteen  or  twenty  pounds,  were 
purchased,  and  were  served  for  a  day  or  two,  at 
dinner  and  breakfast,  in  fine  style. 

Our  sail  down  the  lake  was  a  flight.  We  had  a 
perfect  gale  astern,  and  spreading  all  our  canvass, 
and  putting  on  all  steam,  we  ran  the  whole  length 
of  Huron  in  less  than  a  day,  a  distance  of  nearly 
three  hundred  miles.  We  reached  Detroit  before 
dark  next  day,  and  waited  there  for  freight  and 
passengers,  until  ten  o'clock  next  morning. 

Detroit  is,  in  all  its  peculiar  characteristics,  an 
eastern  city.  It  was  peopled  and  built  up  by  east- 
ern men,  in  eastern  style,  and  the  habits  of  the  east 
prevail  above  those  of  the  west.  It  is  a  growing 
place,  and  destined  to  become  one  of  the  largest  of 
western  cities.  It  will  be  an  exceedingly  important 
station,  in  case  of  any  difficulties  arising  between 
our  nation  and  the  Canadns.  We  here  first  per- 
ceived the  hostile  spirit  which,  I  am  sorry  to  say, 
prevails  all  along  the  Canadian  line  of  our  frontier. 


240  CLEAVELAND BUFFALO. 


Detroit  lies  on  the  St.  Clair  river,  just  at  the  foot 
of  the  lake  of  the  same  name.  It  is  but  a  mile 
across  the  river  to  the  Canadian  shore,  and  although 
the  better  informed  and  more  intelligent  do  all  they 
can  to  cultivate  and  establish  good  feelings,  the 
thoughtless  and  designing  are  constantly  seeking 
and  obtaining  opportunities  to  stir  up  and  increase 
the  feud  already  existing  between  the  two  shores. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Clair  river,  we  passed 
Amherstburgh,  where  there  is  a  fort  and  a  body  of 
troops  stationed.  These  were  under  review  as  we 
passed,  and  presented  a  very  imposing  appearance, 
their  scarlet  uniform  and  brilliant  weapons  glanc- 
ing and  flashing  in  the  sunlight.  There  was  an 
evident  disposition  on  board  our  boat,  to  insult 
them,  but  it  was  utterly  frowned  down  by  the  ma- 
jority. Before  noon,  we  passed  the  three  sisters,  a 
line  of  three  islands — they  are  not  grouped — at  the 
northern  part  of  Lake  Erie.  We  sailed  directly 
over  the  battle  ground  of  the  gallant  Perry,  whose 
brilliant  victory  added  real  glory  to  the  American 
arms  in  the  late  war.  We  passed  the  brig  "  Queen 
Charlotte,"  which  was  among  the  trophies  of  that 
engagement.  She  is  a  neat,  trim  craft,  and  nearly 
the  sole  survivor,  as  I  was  told,  of  that  bloody 
affray.  Sic  transit,  etc. 

We  made  but  a  short  stay  at  Cleaveland,  but 
enough  to  show  us  the  peculiar  beauty  and  advan- 
tages of  the  place,  which,  in  point  of  commercial 
location,  is  scarcely  exceeded  by  Buffalo.  We 
reached  Buffalo,  in  a  soaking  rain,  at  day-light, 
just  one  week  after  leaving  Chicago,  having  trav- 
ersed nearly  twelve  hundred  miles  of  fresh  water 
in  one  boat ! 

Our  stay  at  the  growing  town  of  Buffalo,  was  so 
short,  that  I  had  not  time  to  take  more  than  a  fly- 
ing view  of  the  place.  Coming  as  we  did  from  the 


NIAGARA    FALLS.  241 


west,  where  a  tolerable  tavern  is  a  god-send,  we 
were  fully  prepared  to  enjoy  the  luxuries  of  a  Buf- 
falo hotel,  surpassed,  as  the  Buffalo  hotels  are,  by 
no  others  in  the  United  States.  They  are  perfect 

Ealaces,  and  the  best  of  them  will  not  suffer  a  whit 
y  being  put  in  comparison  with  the  Astor  and 
Tremont  nouses. 

We  took  the  railroad  for  Niagara,  and  were 
trolled  over  that  rascally  road  in  shabby  cars,  by 
horsepower,  THE  locomotive  being  out  of  repair. 
We  reached  the  Cataract  House,  on  the  banks  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  and  had  time,  previous  to  dinner, 
just  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  falls. 

I  am  not  going  to  describe  these  tremendous  and 
most  glorious  manifestations  of  Him,  "  in  whose 
hand  are  all  the  corners  of  the  earth."  This  won- 
der of  Nature  has  been  too  often  described  to  need 
a  repetition  of  it  in  this  humble  volume,  even  did  I 
not  feel  that  the  subject  would  mock  my  attempt. 
I  shall  merely  give  some  of  my  "impressions" 
while  on  that  hallowed  spot — a  spot  where  the 
Almighty  seems  to  have  been  pleased  to  produce  a 
concentration  of  the  awful,  grand,  and  beautiful. 
In  no  spot  are  to  be  found,  so  happily  blended,  op- 
posing features.  In  the  midst  of  a  flat  and  level 
country,  lies  this  stupendous  cataract,  in  order  to 
form  which,  the  channel  of  the  river  below  the 
falls  has  been  torn  out  of  the  solid  rock,  for  miles, 
to  the  depth  of  from  160  to  300  feet,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  in  breadth.  Here,  too,  is  found  the  quiet 
repose,  hushed  by  the  muffled  roar  of  the  falling 
sea  of  waters,  in  the  very  midst  of  the  wild  scene, 
and  on  the  very  verge  of  the  precipice  over  which 
they  take  their  frightful  leap.  Here  dwells  the 
bow  of  promise,  holding  perpetual  sway  over  the 
mad  torrent — like  the  benignant  smile  of  peace, 

21 


242  FIRST    IMPRESSIONS. 

sanctifying  the  desolations  of  the  human  heart. 
But  I  have  not  time  to  multiply  tropes. 

I  heard  much  of  the  disappointment  of  visitors — 
the  falls  were  not  so  grand  as  they  had  been  led  to 
expect.  Such  persons  would  have  been  disap- 
pointed, had  they  found,  instead  of  the  actual 
"  miracle  of  Omnipotence,"  a  fall,  from  the  moon,  of 
all  the  waters  of  the  ocean  !  /,  too,  was  disap- 
pointed— most  happily.  I  shall  never,  never  forget 
the  first  impressson.  I  took  my  course  from  the 
hotel — and  I  advise  every  one  who  visits  them  for 
the  first  time,  on  the  American  side,  to  do  the  same, 
— direct  to  the  stairway  which  leads  to  the  foot  of 
the  falls  on  the  American  side.  To  the  roar  of  the 
mighty  flood  I  could  not  close  my  ear,  but  I  obsti- 
nately shut  my  eyes  against  all  lesser  views, 
determined  to  receive  my  first  impressions  from 
some  prominent  point.  It  is  hard  work  to  do  so. 
Oh,  how  I  longed,  yet  dreaded,  to  look  abroad 
while  on  that  way,  which  seemed  an  hundred 
times  as  long  as  it  really  was  !  but  I  kept  my  eye 
perversely  bent  upon  my  very  feet,  not  catching  a 
glimpse,  until  the  full  view  opened  upon  my  aston- 
ished vision.  And  such  a  vision  !  I  see  even  now 
— I  ever  shall  see  it, — that  awful  torrent,  just  leap- 
ing from  its  fearful  height,  as  if  it  were  reluctantly 
forced  therefrom,  into  the  boiling  abyss,  which 
danced  in  very  madness  of  joy  to  embrace  it. 
Awful  and  beautiful  !  How  sublime  were  the 
impressions  of  that  first  half-hour,  and  which  all 
my  after-wonderings  and  delight  could  not  weaken, 
and  which  I  devoutly  pray  may  never  be  absent 
from  my  soul,  whenever  my  thoughts  turn  to  Thee, 
great  wonder  and  glory  of  His  hand  who  bade  thee 
roll  and  bow  thus  in  homage  to  His  will ! 

I  visited  all  the  famous  points  of  this  every  where 
imposing  scene,  and  everywhere  was  filled  with 


"THE  GRIM  FERRYMAN."        243 

new  wonder  and  delight ;  but  at  every  point,  I  in- 
voluntarily returned  to  my  first  impressions,  as  to 
my  first  love,  as  the  most  beautiful  and  imposing. 
Not  even  my  pilgrimage  to  "  Termination  rock," 
behind  the  sheet  of  waters,  so  eloquently  and 
graphically  described  by  Miss  Martineau,  made 
such  impression  as  the  first  act  in  the  scene.  I 
advise  every  one  to  go  behind  the  sheet,  and  take 
his  "  certificate  "  from  the  polite  Mr  Starkie,  who 
furnishes  the  guide.  For  several  reasons  I  would 
advise  every  visitor  to  put  his  foot  on  "  Termination, 
rock."  First,  it  is  the  fashion — others,  great  and 
beautiful,  lad  and  lass,  have  been  there.  Secondly, 
it  affords  a  rare  shower-bath — which  every  dusty 
traveller  requires, — not  to  speak  of  the  sport  of 
equipping.  Thirdly,  he  will  not  have  to  take 
"  impressions  "  second-handed — surely  they  can 
never  be  conveyed.  Fourthly,  because — but  these 
are  enough — go,  reader,  to  the  chaotic  spot,  or  go 
not  to  Niagara  ! 

Not  the  least  interesting  part  of  the  visit  is  the 
passage  of  the  river  across  the  ferry,  "  with  the 
grirn  ferryman "  which  travellers  "  write  of." 
The  staunch  boat  dances  like  an  egg-shell  over  the 
boiling  flood,  and  requires  a  strong  and  steady 
arm  to  keep  it  free  from  the  rocks  which  project 
everywhere  above  the  surface,  and  to  prevent  its 
being  swept  down  the  rushing  current.  Such  an 
arm  had  our  oarsman — a  stout,  handsome,  black 
fellow,  who  seemed  to  be  formed  and  designed  for 
this  very  purpose.  I  have  seldom  seen  a  finer 
specimen  of  bone  and  muscle,  and  I  hope  Miss 
Martineau's  enjoyment  in  the  study  of  his  face — as- 
fine  an  African  specimen  as  I  ever  beheld — a  very 
Othello — was  as  great  as  mine. 

The  view  from  the  Canadian  bank  amply  repaid 
us  for  our  toilsome  ascent  up  the  winding  pathway 


244  BRITISH    ENCAMPMENT. 

leading  thereto  from  the  ferry.  We  were  reminded 
of  our  alien  position  on  being  requested,  by  a  Brit- 
ish sentry,  to  record  our  names  both  on  reaching 
and  leaving  the  Canadian  shore.  After  admiring 
the  falls  from  Table  rock,  and  all  other  interesting 
points,  we  clambered  up  to  the  Heights,  and  wit- 
nessed the  fine  encampment  of  British  troops 
stationed  there.  We  were  treated  with  perfect 
civility,  and  regaled  with  some  excellent  music 
from  the  well-disciplined  band  belonging  to  the  reg- 
iment. By  the  time  we  had  re-crossed  this  modern 
Styx,  and  ascended,  for  the  twentieth  time  that  day, 
the  precipitous  bank,  we  were  glad  to  eat  our  sup- 
per and  seek  our  beds. 

From  the  falls  there  is  a  railroad  to  Lockport, 
where  passengers  are  transferred  to  the  canal- 
boats,  and,  passing  on  through  Rochester,  Syra- 
cuse, etc.,  reach  Utica  on  the  morning  of  the  third 
day,  in  season  to  take  the  cars  for  Albany.  An- 
other route  is,  by  railroad  or  stage  to  Lewiston, 
thence  to  Oswego,  via  Lake  Ontario,  in  steamboat, 
and  thence  by  stage  to  Utica,  seventyfive  miles. 
We  were  beset  by  the  agents  of  each  line,  who  had 
a  real  battle — of  words — in  our  presence.  Some 
of  our  party  were  in  a  great  hurry  to  get  on,  and 
decided  to  go  via  Rochester,  etc.  The  agent  for 
the  other  route  pledged  his  word  that  we  might 
spend  a  whole  day  more  at  the  falls,  and  he  would 
still  deliver  us  in  Utica  twelve  hours  in  advance  of 
those  who  had  decided  for  the  other  route,  and  in 
season  to  take  the  night  train,  that  we  might  reach 
Albany  in  time  for  the  morning  boat  for  New 
York.  So  I  concluded,  in  company  with  my  travel- 
ling companion,  once  more  to  put  my  faith  in  a 
"  stage  agent,"  albeit  I  had  so  often  been  gulledby 
them.  One  other  inducement  was,  that  the  fare 
should  be  several  dollars  less. 


LAKE    ONTARIO OSWEGO.  245 


We  took  the  stage  for  Lewiston,  in  preference  to 
the  railroad.  Let  every  lover  of  the  wild  and 
beautiful  do  so.  The  driver  was  a  very  accommo- 
dating fellow,  and  drove  us  to  the  "  whirlpool"  and 
"  devil's  hole,"  at  each  of  which  places  he  per- 
mitted us  to  dismount  and  take  a  brief  survey,  and 
we  reached  the  boat  at  the  same  time  with  the  cars. 
This  is  owing  to  the  roundabout  route  of  the  rail- 
road, for  we  left  Niagara  at  the  same  hour.  The 
fare  is  the  same,  and  the  traveller  has  a  fine  view 
of  all  the  interesting  points  on  that  wild  and  match- 
less river.  I  would  advise  all  visitors  at  the  falls 
to  take  this  route. 

Our  boat  pushed  off  late  in  the  afternoon,  and 
gave  us  a  fine  opportunity  to  view  the  towns  and 
forts  on  either  shore,  as  we  passed  them  in  rapid 
succession.  In  our  rear  rose  the  wild  heights  so 
memorable  for  the  fall  of  General  Brock,  whose 
monument,  of  beautiful  proportions,  towered  above 
every  object  and  stood  in  bold  relief  against  the 
darkening  sky.  On  our  left  was  the  small  town  of 
Lewiston,  with  its  sentry  "  walking  his  lonely 
round  "  with  shouldered  musket,  and  as  fierce  a 
look  of  defiance  as  the  pacific  state  of  the  times 
would  permit.  Before  us  opened,  in  perfect  beauty, 
the  broad  waters  of  the  unruffled  lake,  reflecting 
aslant  the  rays  of  the  setting  sun,  and  appearing 
almost  a  sea  of  fire.  A  band  of  music  on  board, 
served  to  give  life  and  variety  to  the  scene,  and  the 
evening  closed  in  as  one  would  wish  to  die,  calm 
and  glorious  as  an  angel's  coming  or  a  saint's  de- 
parture. 

We  entered  the  snug  little  harbor  of  Oswego 
a  little  after  sunrise,  with  banners  waving,  and  the 
band  playing  "  The  Campbells  are  coming."  This 
is  one  of  those  beautiful  and  thriving  towns  which 
have  grown  up  by  magic  in  the  state  of  New 

21* 


246  STAGING UTICA. 


York,  since  the  impulse  imparted  to  her  commerce 
and  manufactures  by  the  great  father  of  that  state, 
the  illustrious  De  Witt  Clinton,  whose  name  ought 
to  be  engraven  on  every  lock  of  her  endless  canals, 
and  every  milestone  on  her  railroads.  After  a  sub- 
stantial breakfast,  served  in  Boston  style  by  a 
Boston  host,  and  discussed  in  true  style  by  a  Boston 
company,  we  packed  into  our  "Troy  coach,"  and 
set  off  in  a  buzz,  which  augured  well  for  the  day's 
result.  We  had  seventyfive  miles  of  road  before 
us,  to  be  despatched  before  nine  in  the  evening — 
and  such  a  road — and  this  commencement  put  us 
in  fine  spirits,  and  served  to  banish  in  part  our 
fears  that  we  should  not  accomplish  the  predictions 
of  our  "  lying  agent."  Nor  did  we.  Recent  rains 
had  rendered  the  bad  roads  worse,  and  we  encoun- 
tered crabbed  drivers,  who,  I  believe  in  my  heart, 
delayed  us  intentionally,  and  rejoiced  in  our  dis- 
comfiture. However,  we  reached  Utica  in  safety, 
sometime  before  midnight,  and  had  eight  hours 
sweet  repose  before  our  friends,  who  had  left  Ni- 
agara twenty  four  hours  in  advance  of  us,  reached 
the  city. 

After  all,  I  would  recommend  the  route  I  came. 
Certainly  a  day  and  a  half  is  clearly  gained,  and 
several  dollars  in  expense,  not  to  count  a  fine 
night's  rest  in  the  boat,  and  another  at  Utica.  The 
seventyfive  miles  of  road  is  bad  enough,  in  all  con- 
science, but  it  is  only  one  day's  ride,  and  can  very- 
well  be  borne.  Indeed  it  is  preferable  to  canal 
riding  at  any  rate.  And  generally  the  stage 
reaches  in  season  for  the  evening  train  in  which 
passengers  can  go  on  directly  to  Albany.  I  attri- 
bute our  failure  altogether  to  the  surliness  and 
self-importance  of  several  of  the  drivers,  who  de- 
serve to  be  turned  out  of  employment. 

I  was  astonished  with  the  magnitude  of  Utica, 


CONCLUSION.  247 

as  well  as  other  inland  towns  of  the  "empire 
state."  Its  wide  and  cleanly  streets,  and  business- 
like blocks  of  stores,  give  it  a  tidy  and  thrifty  aspect, 
and  augur  a  general  prosperity. 

Our  ride  through  the  narrow  and  picturesque 
valley  of  the  Mohawk,  over  the  Utica  and  Schenec- 
tady  railroad,  was  a  very  pleasant  and  rapid  one, 
and  we  entered  Albany  in  season  to  take  the  eve- 
ning boat  and  have  some  hours  to  spare.  Never 
before  have  I  been  carried  through  the  water  as 
the  Swallow  steamer  carried  me.  She  is  most 
appropriately  named  ;  she  is  the  swiftest  of  boats. 
We  were  snugly  moored  to  the  steamboat  pier,  in 
New  York,  before  day-light.  At  four  o'clock, 
P.  M.,  we  entered  that  fine  sound  boat,  the  Massa- 
chusetts, and,  at  an  early  hour  next  morning,  I  set 
foot  once  more  on  New  England  soil.  We  were 
whirled  over  the  railroad  to  Boston,  in  a  short 
space  of  time,  and  I  found  myself  once  more  in  the 
bosom  of  my  family.  I  have  run  thus  rapidly  over 
the  journey  home,  because  it  has  so  often  been 
described,  and  I  could  not  find  it  in  my  heart  to 
write  about  that  which  is  perfectly  familiar  to 
every  schoolboy. 

IN  CONCLUSION  to  my  labors,  in  bringing  this 
little  book  before  the  public,  I  have  a  few  general 
reflections  to  utter,  which  may  serve  to  illustrate 
my  purpose  and  expectation.  I  have  attempted 
this  task,  heaven  knows,  not  from  a  vain  desire  to 
appear  before  the  public  as  an  author,  for  I  am 
well  aware  of  the  extremely  loose  manner  in  which 
this  work  has  been  thrown  together.  Most  of  it 
was  written  while"  on  the  wing"  of  travel,  and  the 
pressure  of  other  duties  have  entirely  prevented 
such  revision  as  I  should  have  been  glad  to  bestow 
upon  it.  But  I  have  written  for  "two  objects  : 


248  IMMIGRATION. 


First,  to  gratify  a  numerous  circle  of  friends,  who 
have  closely  besieged  me  with  questions  innumera- 
ble about  that  land  of  promise  which  I  have  explored, 
and  who  take  a  deep  interest  in  all  that  pertains 
thereto,  and  whom  I  can  best  and  most  easily  gratify 
l»y  this  method.  And  secondly,  because  such  crude 
and  false  notions  of  the  west  have  attained  in  New 
England,  that  a  candid,  fair  exposition  of  that  coun- 
try was  greatly  demanded.  Already  has  the  tide 
of  immigration  passed  into  "  Illinois  and  the  west," 
in  such  immense  streams  as  to  astonish  him  who  be- 
holds it;  and  that  tide  is  destined  to  swell  to  an  almost 
indefinite  extent.  The  next  year  (1889)  will  prob- 
ably exhibit  such  an  immigration  as  no  one  year 
before  has  ever  exhibited.  Why  should  it  not? 
There  are  tens  of  thousands  in  the  thickly  peopled 
portions  of  the  United  States,  who,  although  they 
may  be  able  to  gain  a  bare  subsistence,  must  do  it 
with  much  toil  and  sacrifice,  and  be  perpetually 
harassed  with  the  reflection  that  should  sickness 
overtake  them,  or,  at  last,  when  old  age  must,  they 
and  theirs,  for  whom  they  live  alone,  must  suffer 
and  come  for  support  upon  the  cold  charity  of  the 
world,  or  the  hard  pittance  of  the  pauper."  Immi- 
gration is,  to  him,  what  it  was  to  the  Israelitish 
brickmakers  in  Egypt — a  certain  good  for  an  un- 
certain one,  a  competence  for  subsistence,  a  pros- 
pect of  plenty  for  a  penurious  old  age. 

There  are  other  multitudes  who  have  inherited  a 
delicate  constitution,  and  in  whom  the  incipient 
seeds  of  death  are  early  fanned  into  vigorous  and 
fatal  action  by  the  bleak  east  winds  of  New  Eng- 
land. Unless  they  have  protracted  beyond  all 
hope  their  stay  in  the,  to  them,  deadly  climate  of 
the  north,  the  latitude  of  the  south-western  states 
is  the  very  one  where  these  seeds  will  not  be  likely 
to  germinate.  I  have  known  many,  whose  delicate 


WESTERN    ADVANTAGES.  249 


state  of  health  indicated  incipient  consumption, 
who,  upon  removing  to  Illinois,  have  become 
hearty  and  robust,  and  every  pulmonary  symptom 
has  long  since  disappeared.  To  such  I  would  say, 
try  it.  Tarry  not  in  these  bleak  latitudes  until  it  is 
too  late,  as  thousands  do,  and,  when  all  hope  is 
abandoned,  vainly  expect  relief  from  the  milder 
influences  of  lower  latitudes.  Let  the  very  first 
and  repeated  symptoms  of  pulmonary  attack  be  the 
sounding  note  of  your  departure.  The  prospect  of 
life  and  health  are  multiplied  a  thousand  times  in 
the  removal. 

Besides  these,  there  are  many  farmers  who  have 
sons  growing  up  around  them,  whom  they  have 
dedicated  to  the  toilsome  and  honorable  occupation 
they  have  themselves  pursued.  They  are  unable 
to  apportion  them  at  the  north,  where,  poor  as  the 
soil  is,  it  bears  an  exorbitant  price.  They  must 
either  be  turned  out  from  home  early  in  life,  and 
taken  from  all  the  watchful  care  so  necessary  to 
their  youth,  or,  left  a  burden  upon  the  household 
until  of  age,  they  must  then  be  turned  out  upon  the 
world,  and  trust  to  the  winds  and  waves  of  for- 
tune, which  may  waft  them  on  to  competency  and 
virtue,  and  which  may  bear  them  away  to  utter 
and  hopeless  poverty  and  irreclaimable  vice.  To 
such  an  one  the  west  holds  out  the  most  powerful 
inducements.  If  he  can  dispose  of  his  farm 
at  a  fair  price,  he  can  appropriate  it  to  the 
greatest  possible  advantage.  He  can  procure  land 
enough  to  employ  all  his  boys,  and  that  to  the 
greatest  profit,  and  when  they  shall  become  men, 
he  can  apportion  and  settle  them  all  around  him, 
where,  with  industry  and  good  conduct,  they  may 
attain  to  opulence  and  respect. 

Then  there  is  the  mechanic — whose  only  stock 
in  trade  is  his  chest  of  tools  and  his  skill, — he 


250  POPULATION    OF    ILLINOIS.    - 

can  find  no  better  place  than  the  west  to  "  set  up 
for  himself."  Carpenters,  joiners,  mill-wrights, 
brick-layers,  stone-masons,  blacksmiths,  painters, 
shoe-makers,  hatters,  tailors,  and  all  those  whose 
labor  is  requisite  in  building  up  a  new  country — 
these,  each  and  every,  can  do  well  at  the  west ; 
can  do  better,  doubtless,  than  to  remain  at  the 
east,  where  every  trade  is  crowded. 

Beside  these,  there  are  the  merchant,  the  law- 
yer, the  physician,  and  the  schoolmaster,  who  will 
find  an  ample  field  for  their  powers — which  are 
cramped,  it  may  be,  where  they  are — and  with 
a  good  prospect  of  a  fair  and  generous  remu- 
neration. 

Illinois  is  destined  to  be  a  great  state — great  in 
her  political  and  moral  influence,  as  well  as  in 
her  physical  resources.  It  is  to  be  made  thus 
through  foreign  influence — the  influence  of  immi- 
gration. It  is  altogether  a  mistake,  which  too 
many  entertain,  that  the  west  is  filled  up  with 
mere  renegadoes  and  speculators — men  whose  for- 
tunes have  failed  them  in  the  east,  with  all  hope 
of  reparation  ;  or  whose  enormities  have  exiled 
them  from  the  moral  community  of  New  Eng- 
land. Bad  men  there  are,  and  speculators,  but 
the  majority  of  the  population  is  made  up  of  men 
— young  men — of  great  enterprise  and  business 
tact,  who,  while  they  are  laboring  for  their  own 
emolument,  are  doing  somewhat,  and  not  a  little, 
for  the  institutions  of  their  adopted  country,  and 
the  permanence  of  social  virtues  in  the  society 
they  help  to  compose.  A  thriftless  man — one  who 
has  not  the  ambition  to  help  himself  at  home, — 
will  not  seek  the  west,  because  it  requires  too 
much  enterprise  to  do  so.  Or,  if  he  goes  there, 
finding  labor  and  sagacity  as  necessary  there  as 
elsewhere,  he  becomes  disgusted,  and  returns 


THE    END.  251 

again  to  his  old  home,  where  he  will  stand  a 
much  fairer  chauce  to  succeed  in  idleness  and 
thriftlessness. 

What  I  have  uttered  in  the  foregoing  pages, 
has  no  claim  to  infallibility.  It  is  the  calm  con- 
clusion of  a  rnind  alive  to  a  desire  to  utter  truth 
in  a  sober  guise,  and  if  I  shall  have  influenced 
any  one  to  his  good  I  shall  be  abundantly  re- 
warded in  the  efforts  I  have  put  forth. 


APPENDIX. 


Routes— Conveyances — Prices — Hints — Note. 

To  one  who  has  determined  to  visit  the  west,  & 
few  directions,  as  to  the  best  routes,  etc.,  will  prove 
a  valuable  desideratum.  When  the  Ohio  river  is 
up,  I  would  recommend,  to  persons  going  on  with 
families,  the  route  via  Philadelphia,  Pi ttsburg,  Cin- 
cinnati, etc.  Where  there  are  no  children,  I  should 
recommend  the  route  from  Philadelphia  via  Balti- 
more, and  over  the  National  Road  by  stage  to 
Wheeling  on  the  Ohio  river. 

When  the  Ohio  river  is  low,  a  better  route  would 
be  from  New  York  to  Albany,  thence  to  Utica,  and 
by  stage  to  Oswego,  by  boat  up  the  Ontario  to 
Levviston  and  Buffalo,  and  through  the  lakes  to 
Chicago.  It  will  be  a  boisterous  route  after  the 
middle  of  October,  and  somewhat  dangerous. 

One  valuable  hint  to  travellers  is,  to  make  one 
trunk  answer  for  the  whole  luggage,  and  that  as 
small  as  possible.  Take  as  few  things  as  can  be 
got  along  with,  and  thus  save  much  real  vexation, 
loss  of  time,  and  money. 

The  following  table  I  have  carefully  collated 
froin  the  published  tables  of  various  guide  books 
and  maps,  and  have  taken  the  liberty  to  correct 
several  important  errors  which  have  occurred 
therein. 

22 


254  ROUTES FARES, 


From  New  York  to  Philadelphia,  via  steamboat 
and  railroad,  fare  $3  and  $4,  meals  extra.  From 
Philadelphia  to  Pittsburg,  via  railroad  and  canal, 
fare  $12,  meals  extra.  From  Pittsburgto  St.  Louis 
or  Alton,  via  Ohio  and  Mississippi  rivers,  fare  $20, 
or  $25,  meals  included.  From  St.  Louis  or  Alton, 
via  Illinois  river,  to  Peoria,  $5,  meals  included. 
Through,  from  Boston  to  Pittsburg,  in  six  days  ; 
Cincinnati,  eight  days  ;  St.  Louis  or  Alton,  twelve 
to  fourteen  days.  A  single  person,  without  extra 
baggage,  can  get  from  Boston  to  St.  Louis  for 
about  $50.  It  cost  rne  $49.  This  covers  all  neces- 
sary expenses  ;  fares,  tavern  bills,  meals,  porterage, 
hack  hire,  etc.  etc. 

From  New  York  to  Albany,  via  Hudson  river, 
fare  $3,  meals  extra.  From  Albany  to  Utica,  via 
railroad,  $4,  meals  extra.  From  Utica  to  Osvvego, 
stage,  fare  $3,  meals  extra.  From  Oswego  to 
Lewiston,  via  Lake  Ontario,  fare  $4,  meals  in- 
cluded. From  Lewiston  to  Buffalo,  railroad,  fare 
$1,50.  From  Buffalo  to  Chicago,  via  the  lakes, 
fare  from  $15  to  $25,  meals  included.  From  Chi- 
cago to  Peoria,  via  Ottawa  and  Peru,  stage  and 
steamboat,  fare  $10,  meals  extra.  Again,  from 
Utica,  via  canal  and  railroad  to  Buffalo,  through 
Syracuse,  Rochester,  Lockport,  etc.,  fare  from 
$10  to  $12,  including  meals.  In  the  winter,  from 
Buffalo,  by  stage,  to  Chicago,  fare  about  $50,  ex- 
clusive of  meals. 

Individuals  who  wish  to  travel  through  the  inte- 
rior of  Michigan,  Indiana,  Illinois,  Missouri,  etc., 
will  find  that  the  most  convenient,  sure,  economi- 
cal, and  independent  mode  is  on  horseback.  Their 
expenses  will  be  from  seventyfive  cents  to  one 
dollar  fifty  cents  per  day,  and  they  can  always  con- 
sult their  own  convenience  aud  pleasure  as  to  time 
•and  place. 


ECONOMY    IN    TRAVEL.  255 


Stage  fare  is  usually  six  cents  per  mile,  in  the 
West.  Meals,  at  stage-houses,  are  thirty  seven  and 
a  half  to  fifty  cents. 

Those  wishing  to  go  west  in  as  economical  a  man- 
ner as  possible,  can  get  there  for  about  half  the 
cost  of  the  above  enumerated  fares.  The  forward 
car  in  all  the  trains  of  railroad  travelling,  is  half 
price.  A  deck  passage  on  all  boats  may  be  secured 
on  exce'edingly  easy  terms.  By  the  payment  of 
four,  five,  or  six  dollars,  and  occasional  aid  in 
"  wooding  up  "  at  the  stopping  places,  a  man  may 
get  from  "Pittsburg  to  St.  Louis,  and  at  this  rate 
elsewhere.  By  putting  in  provisions  at  the  large 
towns  and  taking  a  deck  passage,  and  the  cheap 
(transportation)  line  between  Philadelphia  and 
Pittsburg,  I  have  known  individuals  go  from 
Boston  to  St.  Louis  at  a  cost  of  not  more  than  $18. 

"  The  deck  for  such  passengers  is  usually  in  the 
midship,  forward  of  the  engine,  and  is  protected 
from  the  weather.  Passengers  furnish  their  own 
provisions  and  bedding.  They  often  take  their 
meals  at  the  cabin  table,  with  the  boat  hands,  and 
pay  twenty  five  cents  a  meal.  Thousands  pass  up 
and  down  the  river  as  deck  passengers,  especially 
emigrating  families,  who  have  their  bedding,  pro- 
visions, and  cooking  utensils  on  board. 

Immigrants  arid  travellers  will  find  it  to  their 
interest  always  to  be  a  little  skeptical  relative  to 
statements  of  stage,  steam  and  canal-boat  agents  ; 
to  make  some  allowance  in  their  own  calculations 
for  delays,  difficulties,  and  expenses  ;  and  above 
all,  to  feel  perfectly  patient  and  in  good  humor  with 
themselves,  the  officers,  company,  and  the  world, 
even  if  they  do  not  move  quite  as  rapidly,  and  fare 
quite  as  well  as  they  desire." 


NOTE.— My  manuscript  has  so  far  exceeded  my  calcula- 
tions, that  I  am  obliged  to  condense  the  Appendix  to  a  much 
smaller  compass  than  I  at  first  intended.  But  a  small  edition 
of  the  book  is  issued,  and  should  its  sale  so  far  afford  evi- 
dence of  its  requirement,  another  edition  will  be  speedily 
issued,  with  such  emendations  and  additions  as  may  make  it 
a  sure  and  full  text-book,  to  all  persons  interested  in  the  growth 
of  the  west- 


'"IMS  AND  THE  WEST  PHIL 


PHIL* 


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